Friday, May 14th, 2010
 Tourists at St. Mark's Square. Photo by Monica Cesarato.
By Monica Cesarato in Venice—
When people think of Venice, the first three things that usually come to mind are water, gondolas and crowds! Venice is an year ’round-city, with tourists filling the streets 365 days a year (and particularly during the summer).
An obvious way to skip the crowds is to visit Venice during the winter, when rain and fog deter most tourists. If you can’t plan your trip during the off-season, try to visit during the week.
A third—and particularly helpful—tip for avoiding the crowds in Venice is to visit the main sights during the off-peak times. As a general rule, it’s best to visit attractions when they open in the morning, during the lunch hour or right before closing. Read on for more specific information.
Here are some of the city’s top attractions, along with the best times to visit them:
Palazzo Ducale (Doges Palace) and the Bridge of Sighs
St. Mark’s Square, 30124 Venice
Open: 9 a.m.-7 p.m. (9 a.m.-6 p.m. from November-March)
Web site
The Palazzo Ducale was the center of power during the times of the Republic of Venice. Every room is full of amazing frescoes. After feasting your eyes on the beautiful paintings and architecture, consider checking out the Secret Itineraries Tour. The tour takes you through the palace’s dungeon and torture chamber, which is connected to the palace by the Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs).
Best Times To Visit: Stop by the Palazzo when it opens at 9 a.m., between 12:30-1:30 p.m. (when tourist groups are having lunch) or about an hour before closing time.
Museo Correr (Archaeological Museum)
San Marco 52, 30124 Venice
Open: 9 a.m.-7 p.m. (9 a.m.–5 p.m. from November-March)
Web site
The Museo Correr is Venice’s civic museum. Here you’ll find exhibits that offer a fascinating insight into the art and history of the city.
Best Times To Visit: When the museum opens at 10 a.m, between 12:30-1:30 p.m. and about an hour before closing time.
Basilica di San Marco (St. Mark’s Basilica)
St. Mark’s Square
Open: 9:45 a.m.-5:00 p.m. (2:00 p.m.-4:00 p.m. on Sundays and holidays)
The Basilica di San Marco, perhaps the city’s most famous sight, is an amazing monument made unique by both its wealth of history and the magnificence of its façade and interior. The basilica is famous for housing St. Mark’s relics.
Best Times To Visit: Avoid Sunday mornings and holidays, since the Basilica will be used for mass service. There is always a big queue at the entrance, no matter what time, but now you can book your ticket in advance. To book a free visit to St. Mark’s Basilica, fill in the form in at venetoinside.com. This allows you to reserve a visit for up to five guests up to 48 hours ahead of time.
Campanile di San Marco (St. Mark’s Tower)
St. Mark’s Square (opposite the Basilica)
Check Web site for opening hours
A visit to this amazing church tower affords a great bird’s eye view of Venice.
Best Times To Visit: Avoid lunch time, and get there very early in the morning or just before closing time.
Rialto Bridge and its markets
The Rialto Bridge is located in the oldest (and most central) quarter of Venice, and it has been a bustling hub for centuries. The area is always packed with tourists, be it summertime or wintertime.
Best Times to Visit: Go early in the morning, before 9 a.m. Not only will you see the local fish and vegetable market, but you can also enjoy a relatively peaceful scene at the bridge. You should also visit late at night after 10 p.m., as the majority of tourists will be heading to bed or eating dinner.
Gallerie dell’ Accademia (Academy Galleries)
Vaporetto stop Accademia, just off the Accademia Bridge
Open: Monday, 8:15 a.m.-2:00 p.m.; Tuesday-Sunday: 8:15 a.m. -7:15 p.m.
Web site
The Gallerie dell’ Accademia boasts a rich collection of Venetian paintings from the Byzantine and Gothic periods as well as work from Renaissance artists such as Bellini, Carpaccio, Giorgione, Veronese, Tintoretto, Tiziano and Gianbattista Tiepolo.
Best Times To Visit: I do not want to repeat myself, but as before be there early, before 9 a.m. or go an hour before closing times (although this will obviously give you less time in the museum). Groups usually go during the day.
Bonus Tip: Book online, and explore other areas
My final tip on avoiding crowds is to book your tickets online. For the majority of museums in Venice you can do this on www.veniceconnected.com. Also, explore other areas of the city, away from the main sites. By treading off the tourist past, you will see my Venice.
About the author: Monica Cesarato runs her own B&B on the Riviera del Brenta, just outside Venice. She also blogs about life in Venice and the Italian lifestyle http://www.monicacesarato.com.
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Posted in Exhibitions, Italy, Local Customs, Local Objects, Museums, Practical Info, Tourist Objects, Venice, tips | No Comments »
Wednesday, April 28th, 2010
 A back street in Paris. Photo by Jason Cartwright.
By Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries—
This travel lark takes quite a bit of courage. Heavens, just browsing through the new edition of the Rough Guide to Paris, we see the text kicks off with Notre Dame (and a handful of other sights stranded on the Île de la Cité in the middle of the River Seine), and then dives straight into a weighty essay on the Louvre. No holds barred, the text—extremely well written, to be sure—takes us on a guided romp from Egyptian wall tiles via Renaissance crucifixions (lots of those) to 19th-century lithographs.
Defy the travel canon
If we had a month to spare in Paris, we would surely hit the Louvre, but it is not compulsory for a first-time visit. We must confess to having skipped the Sistine Chapel at the Vatican, the Kremlin in Moscow and the Tower in London.
Of course, it does take a bit of courage to miss those big sights, the multi-starred attractions that have acquired legendary status as keystones in the travel canon. The art of being away from home does not come easily, but after years of practice, we think we have it sussed. It is, essentially, to live as the locals do. Parisians do not spend their weekends in long lines waiting to see the Mona Lisa, and nor should you.
Opt for an alternative
This strategy takes a bit of nerve to begin with. We returned home and confessed to elderly relatives that we went to the Vatican, but skipped the Raphaels and Michelangelos, preferring instead to go and see the Vatican railway station (yes, there is one!).
But slowly we grew into the role, realizing that it was possible to travel through Bavaria without including Neuschwanstein Castle in our itinerary. We became ever bolder with every journey. We missed the Edinburgh Festival, slept by accident through Tuscany, and said “No, thanks” when offered free tickets to the Alhambra.
“What barbarians,” we hear you say. “How can they visit Athens and skip the Acropolis?” Our retort will always be, “Because there are too many more interesting things to do instead.” In Paris, there are cafés to linger in, parks to savor, backstreets to explore. And, in truth, once you have traveled through Europe as much as we have, one Renaissance crucifixion begins to look much like another.
Tell us what you think
Do you agree that your travel experience can be enriched by skipping the big-name draws? Share your thoughts in the comments section.
Susanne and Nicky run a Berlin-based editorial bureau that supplies text and images to media across Europe. Together they edit hidden europe magazine. You can read more of their writing in their regular e-brief and in the Notes section on their website.
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Posted in Art, Entertainment, Europe, France, Local Customs, Museums, Paris, Tourist Objects, Trip Planning, hidden europe, tips | 10 Comments »
Monday, April 12th, 2010
 A view of the Opéra Garnier from the roof. Photos by Theodora Brack.
By Theadora Brack in Paris—
Everyone in Paris has a favorite nook of paradise. So where do I go for a little escapism? Clipping from the fabulous Petula Clark, I make my way downtown to the Galeries Lafayette Coupole’s rooftop, where the lights are much brighter and the view at the top is always free!
Here are a few Theadorable insider tips, surefire to make your tour of my favorite “grand magasin” a breeze. Why, it’s in the bag!
 A sweeping view of the "produits de beauté"
Access
Make your entrance at the junction of rue Mogador and boulevard Haussmann. For stamina’s sake, pack a candy bar. You’ll find complimentary water and restrooms on every floor. (Tip: You can avoid the crowd by shopping on weekday mornings.)
Level 0—Welcome Area and Accessories
Here you’ll find a welcome desk, stocked with store maps. This is also where you’ll
 YSL under the dome
find out about all the special promotions. Don’t be daunted by the throngs of people. Like a Mont Blanc climb, the mob will dissipate with altitude as you head up. Keep both your wits and your bag in grip.
Stay focused and fast track it to the cosmetics and perfume area, located in the middle of the store. As you make your way, ogle the handbags, scarves, and hats to your heart’s desire, but don’t touch. Once a silk Kenzo scarf makes its soft and silky contact, you’ll never go Cheapo again. Yes, I have been there.
Level 0, Part II—Scents and Sensibility under the dome
Once you’ve reached the intricate maze of “produits de beauté,” take time to smell the (sometimes synthetic bottled) roses, while gazing up at the stained glass “coupole” (domed ceiling). Installed in 1912, this Belle Epoch beauty with its Byzantine twist has never failed to bring me to tears or goose bumps. But if you’re like me, you’ll soon wipe your tears and then try out the new scents and colors by French classics like Guerlain, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, and Clarins. Free primping just got easier. (Tip: Watch out for uneven flooring and extension-cord coverings.)
 Shoes along the stairs
Level Minus 1 (basement)—Shoes
Hold on to your hat, Cinderella! Make a detour downstairs to the brand-spanking-new and oh-so-tempting shoe zone, shining with 12,000 designer shoes and LED lighting. It’s the world’s largest shoe selection! Take the marble stairwell nestled in between the Gucci and Prada showrooms at ground level. On your way down, get an eyeful of the shoes exhibited in their little glass boxes. Lose your mind or just your glasses? Lost and found is also located on this level.
 Jean-Charles de Castelbajac's swanky digs
Level 1—Designer Fashion
Now, on to the first floor above ground level. Jump off the escalator, and take a quick spin through the fantastic, high-ticketed (but well-worth a window-lick) showroom of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Also lean over the Art Nouveau balconies for a rather spectacular aerial view of the perfume and cosmetic booths below. The logos were installed specifically for this bird’s-eye view. You’ll find plush seating, complimentary water and a €1 coffee machine by the escalator.
Level 2—Contemporary Fashion
Here you find additional seating, more free water, a Coca-Cola Light machine, and Parisian closet staples like Kookai, Naf Naf, and Zara. The view keeps getting better with each floor.
 A leg up under the dome
Level 3—Seductive Fashion
Yes, Cheapos, you are in France, so this is what the lingerie and hosiery is officially called, and yes, it possesses the alluring goods to back up the name! Don’t forget to take yet another peek of the action below.
Level 4—Life’s a Beach
Happily, the crowd starts to thin out here on the bathing suit level, so take advantage of the empty seating, more complimentary water, and the photo booth. Did I say photo booth? Yes! Why not? On this level, you’ll finally earn your first view of the exterior peak of the dome.
Level 5—Toy Store
Hello Kitty, goodbye heart! Uh oh. Need I say more?
Level 6—Eiffel Towers, brides, and books—oh, my
 Break time under the dome
Here you’ll find the city’s largest souvenir shop (who’d-a-thunk-it?), bridal gowns, and one of my favorite bookstores in Paris. Plus: wide designer tables, lanky stools, and red stylish lamps lining the large windows, with views to a kill (apologies to Duran Duran). Kick off your heels, troll the arts section, and grab a book and stool. Your back and feet will thank you!
Level 7—Vogue under the big top
Galeries Lafayette also offers free fashion shows, lit by a disco ball. They’re usually held during the spring and fall seasons. You can reserve a ticket merely by writing welcome@galerieslayfayette.com and asking for one. (Tip: arrive at early to get a front row seat worthy of Anna Wintour.)
 A view of the Eiffel Tower
Level 8—Up on the roof
This is my favorite city-gazing hot spot. Arrayed for your panoramic pleasure, you’ll find the Tour Eiffel, the Opéra Garnier, and Sacré Coeur. So commandeer a ledge and recharge your spirit, soul, and soles with to-the-horizon boulevards and buildings of Haussmannian architecture, dramatic cloud formations, sunsets, and non-stop people-watching!
Cheapos, repeat after me, “Non, je ne regrette rien!”
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Posted in Fashion, France, Free Stuff, Local Objects, Paris, fun, tips | 5 Comments »
Wednesday, March 10th, 2010
 The famous Holocaust Memorial in Berlin. Photo by dalbera.
By Susan Buzzelli—
Between World War II and the Cold War, Berlin has a lot to remember. No wonder dozens of memorials and monuments grace the city. You could spend days tracking down every one of these free-to-see reminders dedicated to bygone events. (The city’s official list of “Denkmäler,” which include buildings, cemeteries, and other locations of historic note, is 941 pages long!)
Here’s a guide to our favorite memorials, including those that are on the well-beaten tourist path and those that are all-too-often overlooked by visitors.
1. Behren Strasse (U/S-bahn: Reichstag or Potsdamer Platz) is the wide avenue that runs alongside the Tiergarten park and connects Unter den Linden to Potsdamer Platz. Behrn Strasse is home to the U.S. Embassy, as well as two World War II monuments.
On the beaten path…
The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe (Ebert Str. & Behren Str.), which is commonly known as the Holocaust Memorial, is a maze of steel gray “stele”, tomb-like slabs, that covers an entire block. Don’t forget to visit the subterranean documentation center for gripping, sobering exhibits about the victims of the Holocaust.
Off the beaten path…
Standing on the edge of the Tiergarten Park (on Ebert Str., between Behren Str. & Hannah-Arendt Str.), the Memorial for Gays Persecuted by Nazis is only a short stroll away from the Holocaust Memorial. Peek through the small “window” on the side of the 13-foot-tall concrete block to see a black and white film that depicts two men kissing. “A simple kiss could cause trouble,” reads the accompanying plaque.
2. Grosse Hamburger Strasse is a long, elegant avenue steps from Hackescher Markt. The street was once a center of Jewish life. It hosted one of the earliest Jewish cemeteries, as well as a home for seniors (marked with a plaque) and a school for boys (now the heavily-fortified Jüdische Oberschule, a school for children of all faiths). Today, the entire street is an open-air memorial to the Mitte’s once-vibrant Jewish community.
On the beaten path…
Will Lambert designed a bronze statue dedicated to the Jewish victims of fascism in 1957. Standing on the site of the long-destroyed Jewish cemetery, on the spot were Jews were deported to concentration camps, the somber memorial depicts a cluster of women and children awaiting their tragic fates.
Off the beaten path…
Installed in 1990 by the French artist Christian Boltanski, the Missing House (once at 15/16 Grosse Hamburger Str.) pays poignant tribute to one of the city’s many voids—in this case, a house that was never rebuilt after its 1945 destruction by Allied bombs. Twelve black-and-white plaques bearing the names, birth and death dates, and occupation of the building’s final residents adorn the facing walls of the two neighboring buildings. It’s a subtle, easy-to-miss tribute.
Continue north on Grosse Hamburger Strasse to reach the quiet, residential square of Koppenplatz. Standing on the northern side is a bronze statue of a table and two chairs, one of which is tipped over onto its back. The Memorial to the Deserted Room, by Karl Biedermann, pays tribute to the many Jews who were forced from their homes. It was installed in 1991.
3. Treptower Park (S-bahn: Treptower Park or Plänterwald) is an expansive stretch of green that runs alongside the Spree river in eastern Berlin. Big with picnickers, dog-walkers, and even boaters, the park is lined with gorgeous “Jugendstil” mansions and apartment buildings that reflect its history as a well-to-do district. It bears two intriguing traces of East Berlin architecture.
On the beaten path…
Occupying a massive swath of green, the gargantuan Soviet Memorial was built by the Soviet Union shortly after World War II to honor the Soviet soldiers who died in the battle for Berlin (1945-1949). Massive marble memorial plaques are overshadowed by the memorial’s focal point–a statue of a Soviet soldier, cradling a German child in his arms.
Off the beaten path…
Schlesischer Busch, a small, scrubby park north of Treptower Park, on the Treptow-Kreuzberg border (Puschkinallee), is home to a former Wachturm (watchtower) that’s been transformed into a small art gallery. Other than the concrete, graffiti-marred tower, there are no longer any traces here of the Berlin Wall that divided the city.
Tell us: Have you been to any of these memorials? Do you have another favorite monument or memorial that you’d like to add to our list? Tell us about it in the comments section.
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Thursday, October 29th, 2009
 Walking along the East Side Gallery. Photo by Mark Turner.
By Susan Buzelli in Berlin–
With only a handful of sights to its name, the edgy Berlin district of Friedrichshain, which is infamous for its anti-capitalism protests, prolific graffiti artists, and rocking music venues, isn’t a jackpot in the sight-seeing department. But thanks to its free-to-see landmarks and a bevy of inexpensive and innovative eateries, this is a great day-time destination for Cheapos desperate to give their wallets some serious R and R.
Here are some great ways to spend a Cheapo-friendly afternoon in Friedrichshain.
Open-air Art: The East Side Gallery
From the Ostbahnhof S-bahn station, stroll alongside Friedrichshain’s best-known attraction: the free-of-charge East Side Gallery (Mühlen Str., between the Ostbahnhof train station and Warschauer Str.) Reputed to be the continent’s largest open-air gallery, it’s a great way to pay tribute to the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall.
The .8-mile-long stretch of Wall bordering the Spree river is a concrete canvas for some 100 graffiti-style artworks. The two most famous images: Birgit Kinder’s painting of a Trabant, the iconic East German car, bursting through the Wall and Dmitri Vrubel’s rendering of a passionate kiss between the Soviet Union’s Leonid Brezhnev and East Germany’s Erich Honecker. If you need a break, spread out on the recently revamped Spree river banks, tucked away just behind the Wall.
A Bridge with a View
 The Oberbaumbrucke. Photo by Stadtneurotiker.
Once you’ve reached the end of Mühlen Str., the historic, red brick Oberbaumbrücke bridge, which links Friedrichshain to Kreuzberg, is impossible to miss.
Originally built in the 18th century, the two-story structure with a 21st-century addition by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, offers sweeping views of eastern Berlin. Look east to see the shimmering silver Molecule Man sculpture rising from the river. Look west to spot the ubiquitous Fernsehturm (TV tower).
Music fans should check out the patterned brick-and-glass Universal Records building, where the company’s European headquarters is located, adjacent to the bridge.
Lunch in a shabby-chic hood
Continue north on Warschauer Strasse to reach the heart of the Boxhaganer Kiez, a shabby-chic hood between Boxhagener Strasse and Revaler Strasse. A gathering place for stylish students, wannabe musicians, and other low-earning Berliners, this colorful corner boasts plenty of eateries serving low-budget food with flair. The best spots serve portions so large that a party of two could fill their bellies for less than €10.
Organic burger joints and vegan eateries are the restaurants du jour in this trend-conscious foodie zone. Since you probably didn’t travel all the way to Berlin to sample diner-style cheeseburgers (or veggie burgers) and fries, you should skip places like Kreuzburger (Grünberger Str. 52-53), Green Burger (Grünberger Str. 38), and Burgeramt/Frühstucksclub (Krossener Str. 22).
 Vegan Pizza at Yoyo Foodworld. Photo: Milgrammer.
If you can’t resist the urge, head to the best of the bunch, Frittiersalon (Boxhagener Str. 104). Reminiscent of a 1950’s diner, the organic burgers served in this greasy spoon are big and tasty. Not to be missed are the house-made potato chips and the diverse, house-made sauces. Vegetarian Wurst is also on the menu.
Meatless meals
Vegans and the green-minded are well served well by another set of Friedrichshain faves that specialize in politically-responsible dishes. The popular Yoyo Foodworld (Gärtner Str. 27) is dedicated to providing strict vegans with dishes that are usually verboten from their diets: Käsespätzle (cheese-covered egg noodles), gyros, schnitzels, burgers, and even banana splits. And the price is right: a vegan hot chili cheeseburger with fries and a salad is €6.99.
A few blocks away, Vöner (Boxhagener Str. 56) draws the vegan masses with its P.C. version of the city’s most beloved meat-centric snack: the Döner kebab. The Imbisse (snack stand) also turns out a mean veggie burger and a meaty bio burger.
A Soviet-era Avenue: Karl Marx Allee
 Karl Marx Allee's Soviet facades. Photo by Mishkabear.
After lunching, wrap up your tour of Friedrichshain with a visit to the Stalinist-era Karl Marx Allee (at the northern end of Warschauer Str., between Alexanderplatz and Frankfurter Allee).
A showcase of monumental Communist architecture, including eight-story, “wedding cake” apartment buildings sheathed in creamy white tiles, the wide boulevard was built by the Soviets shortly after World War II to impress the west. In addition to hosting government-sanctioned marches, it also hosted a brutally-put down demonstration by workers on June 17, 1953.
After staring up at the 2,620-feet-high, neo-classical towers marking the Allee’s eastern end, meander west, past chipping, graffiti-covered facades, funky movie theaters, and retro store fronts, some of which still bear their funky 1950’s shop signs. The apartment buildings west of the Weberwiese U-bahn stop are the most impressive as they’ve been wonderfully restored to their Stalinist/neoclassical glory.
When you’ve had enough, rest your feet and grab a coffee at the historic Café Sybille (Karl Marx Allee 72), which includes an exhibit about the Berlin Wall. A hipper option across the street, Ehrenburg Café (Karl Marx Allee 103) is named after Ilya Ehrenburg, a Soviet-Jewish journalist.
About the author: A Pittsburgh native, Susan Buzzelli had stints in Dresden, Munich, and Hamburg before settling (possibly for good) in Europe’s most dynamic city: Berlin. Her comprehensive guidebook to Germany, Zeitguide Germany, will be published soon. Look for updates on her website, www.susanbuzzelli.com.
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Posted in Berlin, City Guides, Entertainment, Food, Free Stuff, Germany, Neighborhood | No Comments »
Monday, September 28th, 2009
 Passengers on the 95 bus. All photos by Theadora Brack.
By Theadora Brack in Paris—
Gather around, my fellow multitasking “Puces de Paris” junkies. Here’s a twofer for you: a hot “flea market sandwich” with a virtually free bus tour filling in between. Tous à bord!
Two flea markets and a Paris city tour
 The bus stop.
My name is Theadora and I am addicted to flea markets in Paris. One is never enough. Cheapos, haven’t we all been there?
No worry lines, though, because I have the solution: Let me introduce you to the 95 bus line, or, as I call it, the “Oriental Rug Express.” It connects the two best flea markets in the city: the Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves (bus stop: Porte de Vanves) and the Marché aux Puces St-Ouen de Clignancourt (bus stop: Porte de Montmartre).
For the mere price of a metro ticket (the same tickets work for both buses and metros), you’ll not only travel between the flea markets in comfort (the markets are at both ends of the line, so you’re guaranteed a seat), but you’ll also be able to kick back, catch your breath, and boast about your first kills of the day while the panorama of Paris rolls by en route to the next market. The 95 is one of the most scenic bus lines in the city, so don’t pack your camera away!
Junket bus tips
Hit the Porte de Vanves market first, since it’s open only on weekend mornings. Arrive early—vendors start packing up at noon. Shop your heart out, and then hop on the 95.
Cold outside and no bus in sight? Grab a café at bar “Grill 14” directly behind the bus stop. While warming up, you can keep an eye out for your ride. There’s a WC in the bar and an ATM machine just around the corner, too.
Once aboard, you’ll cruise clear across Paris to Clignancourt, which stays open till 7 PM. The ride is as good as a guided tour! Here are just a few of the hotspots you’ll glimpse whilst snaking through Paris’ narrow streets for the next 45 minutes.
Keep your eyes peeled for:
1. Institut Pasteur — Got milk? here’s why!
 St. Germain des Pres
2. Gare Montparnasse — Jumping off place for Chartres, and points west and south-west.
3. Tour Montparnasse — Tallest building in France.
4. Musée de la Poste — Way more than just a stamp collection.
5. Rue de Rennes — Left bank shopping mecca.
6. Félix Potin building, 140 rue de Rennes. Art Nouveau masterpiece, now home to a Zara.
7. L’Eglise Saint-Germain des-Prés — Oldest church in central Paris.
 Sennelier Art Supplies.
8. Sennelier art supply, 3 Quai Voltaire — Where Picasso & friends got their paint.
9. Pont du Carrousel — Statues representing Industry, Abundance, Paris, and the Seine.
10. Pont des Arts – First cast-iron bridge in the city, for pedestrians only.
11. Musée du Louvre – ’nuff said.
12. Pyramide du Louvre — I.M. Pei’s pointy glass peak.
13. Arc-de-Triomphe du Carrousel – The “Mini-Me” of the big Arc de Triomphe.
14. Rue de Rivoli — Colonnade made for promenading à la mode.
 The Pyramid du Louvre
15. Comédie-Française — Home to thespians from Molière to Sarah Bernhardt.
16. Rue de la Paix — Priciest address in the French version of Monopoly!
17. Palais Garnier, a.k.a. the “Opéra de Paris’ — Haunt of the Phantom; it sits atop an underground lake.
18. Boulevard Haussmann — Starring grands magasins like Printemps and Galeries-Lafayette decked out in Belle Époque.
19. Gare St-Lazare — Train-station-muse of both Monet and Manet!
20. Place de Clichy — “The Times Square of Paris”.
21. Brasserie Wepler – One of writer Henry Miller’s favorite hangouts.
 The Palais Garnier.
22. L’Hippodrome — With an indoor horse track it was the largest theater in Europe, now a Castorama hardware store.
23. Cimetière Montmartre — Deathplace of Dalida and Degas.
And finally, at the terminus, the flea markets of Clignancourt! Soothed by all these sights, your junk-searching eyes are ready to roll again. Bon chance!
About the author: Theadora Brack is a writer working in Paris. Her fiction has appeared in more than 30 literary publications, including 3AM International, The Smoking Poet, Beloit Fiction Journal, Mid-American Review, and the Haight-Ashbury Literary Journal.
Popularity: 7% [?]
Posted in Bus, Cheap Souvenirs, City Transportation, France, Paris, Shops, transportation | No Comments »
Monday, May 18th, 2009
 Notre Dame de Lorette and Sacre Coeur. Photos by Liz Webber.
By Liz Webber in Paris—
Thanks in part to the cult of the Virgin Mary that spread throughout France in the Middle Ages, there are some 40-odd churches, chapels and basilicas named “Notre Dame” in Paris. Everyone knows about the famous cathedral, but what about the other 41 églises?
We present you with five of the largest and most interesting “Autres” Dames de Paris, representing the diverse quartiers of the city.
The Basilique Notre Dames des Victoires
 Basilique Notre Dame des Victoires
One of two basilicas bearing the name “Our Lady” in Paris, you’ll find the Basilique Notre Dames des Victoires on the Place des Petit Pères in the 2nd Arrondissement. Construction began in 1629, financed by Louis XIII, who also gave the church its name. During the Revolution the Augustinian friars who lived there were expelled and Notre Dame des Victoires was converted into a stock market.
It reopened as a place of worship in 1809, but few congregants returned to the church. The local priest was about to call it quits in 1836 when he received a divine message telling him to reconsecrate the church to the “Immaculate Heart of the Very Saintly Virgin.” Soon, pilgrims were flocking to the site. The inside walls of the building are covered in plaques bearing the prayers of the faithful from around this time. Notre Dame des Victoires became a basilica in 1927.
Visiting: The building is open to the public 7:30 AM to 7:45 PM Monday through Saturday and 8:30 AM to 7:45 PM on Sunday.
 Notre Dame des Champs
Notre Dame des Champs
The first divine being to be worshiped at this site was Mercury, the Roman god of commerce. When the first Christians arrived in the Paris region, they rededicated the existing shrine to Mary under the name “Notre Dame des Vignes.” King Robert the Pious (996-1031) decided to rebuild the church, and around the same time the name was changed to “Notre Dame des Champs” because the vines (“vignes”) had been torn down.
The church enjoyed fame under the reign of Louis XIV, but unfortunately the building was destroyed during the Revolution. The first stone of the current church was laid in 1867, in 1876 the building was dedicated, and the archbishop of Paris oversaw the consecration in 1912.
Notre Dame des Champs borders the 6th and 14th Arrondissements at 92 bis Boulevard du Montparnasse. The spacious nave lets in quite a bit of light, even on rainy days. To take a full tour of the church, follow the stations of the cross beginning at the front on the left side, continuing around the back and up the other side.
Visiting: Opening hours are between 9 AM and 12:30 PM and 2 PM and 5:30 PM, except for Sunday when the church closes at 5 PM.
Notre Dame de Lorette
I must admit to being a bit partial to Notre Dame de Lorette because it’s in my neighborhood in the 9th Arrondissement, at 8 bis Rue de Châteaudun. If you stand far enough down the Rue Laffitte, directly across from the front entrance, there’s an amazing view of Notre Dame de Lorette with Sacré Coeur looming in the background (see photo, above).
With its elaborate Corinthian columns and imposing Latin transcription over the door, it’s not hard to see that the church was modeled after Roman basilicas. The neoclassic architect Hippolyte Lebas designed the building, which was constructed between 1823 and 1836. (You’ll find a street bearing the architect’s name not far here, just a ways up the Rue des Martyrs.)
Visiting: Notre Dame de Lorette is open Monday from 11 AM to 7:30 PM; Tuesday to Friday from 7:30 AM to 7:30 PM; Saturday from 9 AM to 12 PM and 2:30 PM to 7:30 PM; and Sunday 9 AM to 12:30 PM and 2:30 PM to 7 PM.
Notre Dame de Clignancourt
 Notre Dame de Clignancourt
The first stone of Notre Dame de Clignancourt was laid by the great civic planner Baron Haussmann in 1859, and it opened its doors in 1863. Eugenie, the wife of Napoleon III, endowed the church with furniture and objects of worship, much of which was plundered during the Paris Commune in 1870.
The interior of Notre Dame de Clignancourt is a bit dark, but it does have lovely modern stained-glass windows. The pretty chapel behind the altar is definitely worth a look. Located at 2 Place Jules Joffrin in the 18th Arrondissement, the church is directly opposite from the neighborhood’s mairie (town hall building), which is also an architectural gem.
Visiting: Notre Dame de Clignancourt is open from 9 AM to 12:30 PM and 2 PM to 7:30 PM, except on Sundays when it closes at 5:30 PM.
 Notre Dame de la Croix
Notre Dame de la Croix
Notre Dame de la Croix is by far the largest church on our list. The steeple is visible from blocks away over the roofs of the surrounding buildings. To fully appreciate the enormity of the structure, start at the far end of Rue Etienne Dolet and walk up to the main entrance at 3 Place de Ménilmontant (in the 20th Arrondissement).
Originally, a small chapel opening in 1847 served the Catholic community in this neighborhood. However, the chapel became too small, and construction began on the current church in 1863. The work was interrupted by the Commune, but was finally finished in 1880.
Notre Dame de la Croix gets its name from a statue owned by the monks of Sainte Croix de la Bretonnerie that was hidden in the Ménilmontant neighborhood during the Revolution. The statue was stolen in 1975 and then recovered, but was later stolen again and never returned.
Visiting: The church is open Monday through Saturday from 7 AM to 7:30 PM; on Thursday until 10 PM; and Sunday 7:30 AM to 7 PM.
Discover more Notre Dames
To visit even more of the churches named for the Virgin Mary, you can try looking them up on the websites for each arrondissement, which all follow the same formula (example: the website of the 5th is www.mairie5.paris.fr). Once there, search for “lieux de culte” in the “rechercher” box. Not all the websites list places of worship, but it’s a good starting place.
Do you know of any other intriguing Notre Dame that we might have missed? Tell us about it in the comments section!
Popularity: 7% [?]
Posted in City Guides, Destinations, France, Paris, churches | No Comments »
Tuesday, February 27th, 2007
Athens is an immensely walkable city. Still, should you decide you want to ride—or should Mother Nature not be as accommodating to your desires as you’d like—you’ll do well to check out bus #400, OASA’s (the public bus system’s) “sightseeing line.”
You can buy your ticket for €5 on the bus itself. Your ticket will be good for 24 hours, so you can get on and off the bus wherever you like. You can even start your tour on one afternoon and continue it the following morning if you find yourself shifting into “chilling-for-five-hours-at-a-local-café-and-then-heading-to-the-taverna” mode. We’ve been there.
The bus makes stops at many popular sites and cruises through neighborhoods of greatest interest to most tourists, including the National Archaeological Museum, Monastiraki, the Benaki Museum, and Plaka. No, there is no Vince Vaughn character on the bus offering funny asides about the city’s history and people, but bus #400 provides easy and inexpensive access to places you’ll want to go.
Popularity: 6% [?]
Posted in Athens, Bus, Greece, transportation | No Comments »
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