Buying train tickets in Venice. Photos by Tom Meyers

Two regular contributors to EuroCheapo respond to a good question posed on our blog.

Victor posted on March 11, 2010:

“Hi, three of us have planned a trip to Europe from 27th June 2010 to the 10th July 2010. Our itinerary will take us from London to Paris, Amsterdam, Rome, Venice, Vienna, Berlin and back to Paris and London.

We wish to travel extensively by rail. Please help us make a schedule that would enable us to touch all or most of the cities as planned above and at reasonably priced rates. We are all adults above 40 years of age and most likely do not qualify for any discounted fares. Please also inform us when and where rail bookings could be done in the UK. Thanks.”

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Reply from Susanne Kries and Nicky Gardner of hidden europe:

Hi Victor,

We cannot help you with all you ask, but we can venture a few comments that will perhaps inform your thinking, as you and your friends plan your journey. In responding to your question, we hope these thoughts will also be of broader interest to folk here on EuroCheapo.

The key thing here is to think very carefully quite what you and your two traveling companions want to get out of your upcoming journey. Is the journey the centrepiece or are your hearts set on getting to know the various cities you plan to visit? We rather sense the latter.

1. Too packed an itinerary

Europe is a lot larger than many outsiders imagine, and your itinerary touches only a small part of western Europe. You have fourteen days for your explorations (including your days of arrival in and departure from Europe). Let’s assume that you spend at least a couple of nights in London after flying in, and you want to be back in London on the eve of your departure. That brings the time available for the round trip through continental Europe down to ten nights.

Taking the fastest trains, your itinerary from London to Rome and back (as specified) would take 75 hours. Are you really thinking of spending six or seven hours every single day on trains? If you use slower night trains, you can sleep from one city to the next, but your 75 hours travel becomes closer to 100 hours.

Our view is that this could so easily turn out to be the trip from hell. Of course, you could use night trains for some legs, but you are still spending much time travelling. At the pace you propose you have only one day to see some cities. Yes, that is do-able, but how much can you see in that time?

Let’s take an example. You could leave your hotel in Rome before 7 AM and be in the middle of Venice in time for lunch. You could sightsee in Venice for the afternoon, and catch a night train at 9 PM direct to Vienna. You would be in the middle of Vienna by 9 AM next morning – great if like us you sleep very well on night trains. But if you don’t sleep perfectly, you could arrive shattered and it’ll be too early to be able to check into a hotel.

The sequence in which you have ordered the cities is very sensible, but the entire itinerary is too condensed. Over a couple of months it could be fun. Packed into a few days, it might become an ordeal. You could possibly shift Amsterdam towards the end as it could easily be accommodated en route from Berlin to London, assuming you had no real wish or need to go back through Paris a second time. So the home stretch back to London would now look as follows:

Berlin to Amsterdam: 7 hrs by day (with one train change en route at Amersfoot)
Amsterdam to London: 5 hrs by day (with one change at Bruxelles Midi)

Moving Amsterdam to later in the sequence then frees you up to take the Palatino night train direct from Paris to Rome. Departure is around 6 PM each day. Lovely train – you can enjoy dinner on board as the countryside south of Paris slips by outside the window. It is a super way to spend a summer evening.

Bear in mind that our aggregate travel figure is time on the actual trains. Add in transfers in each city from hotel to train and vv, and your time for sightseeing is even more eaten up by travelling.

Our feeling is that each city on your list deserves a week – not just a few hours. At the very least, you need two full non-travel days in each city just to begin to scrape the surface. That implies three nights in each city. With the time you have you could perhaps pack in three cities on the continent (ie. apart from London) but surely not more.

2. What kind of Europe

Europe is a continent of countryside and small towns. The places you propose to visit are busy, cosmopolitan, and (dare we say) much favoured by international tourists. They are spots you can be sure of finding Starbucks, crushed ice and waiters who speak English.

But there is another Europe – the Europe favoured by many Europeans. If you could throw in a dose of small town Europe, you would find out so much more about our continent, our lives and our varied cultures. And if you are to travel so fast, then it is easier to get the flavour of a country in a smaller place. Better Bergamo than Rome; better Potsdam, Görlitz or Quedlinburg than Berlin; better Shaftesbury, Lavenham or Cambridge than London.

Why not drop some big cities in favour of smaller places? Relax. Take time and watch the sun set behind the mountains in the Alps. Less might be more.

3. Advance booking is the way to deep discounts

You suggest that you may not qualify for any discounted fare. This is not the case. Anyone in Europe can qualify for a discounted fare.

Let us take Vienna to Berlin as an example, using the only direct trains that link the two cities. These all run via Prague and Dresden (yes… more temptations Victor, we know, for now you’ll surely want to pack in an afternoon in each of those two cities as well).

If you just pitch up in Vienna and buy the Berlin ticket on the day (and that is always possible), the regular one-way fare is €117. If you purchase the ticket well in advance (we always recommend 10 to 12 weeks), then you can ride the same route on the same trains for €29. Even with the cheapest fares, you can still break your journey (in Prague, Dresden or anywhere else on the way), but you have to specify that at the time of booking. With the full fare you do not need to pre-specify stopovers.

If you book slightly in advance, say just a week or two before travel, you will still get a ticket for way less than €117, but it will no longer be €29. For a midweek off-peak day, booked a week in advance, you might pay €49. For a peak summer travel day, you might pay €99. But chances are that you will still get a discount.

But it is not as if students or seniors can somehow get privileged access to the rock bottom €29 fare. You can secure the most heavily discounted fares if you book well in advance. Advance booking is the key to cheap travel – not age.

4. Night train fares and the Eurail pass

If you take our suggestion above of using the Palatino train from Paris to Rome, bear in mind the fares structure. We give this as just one further example of how much fares can vary. That run can cost as little as €76 per person if booked in advance (using the Artesia Depart+Go fare). Or as much as €265 each if you book at short notice and opt for the highest class of accommodation (ie. sole occupancy of a sleeper compartment).

Be wary of rail passes sold outside Europe. If you are doing a very packed itinerary, spending hours each day on trains, they may be great value. But check the small print. For many routes they may not offer entirely free travel.

Let’s go back to our Artesia example above, using the Palatino night train from Paris to Rome. Book now, and as we said you could get tickets for €76. If you have a rail pass that includes either France or Italy, you might imagine you would ride for free. But actually not – a Eurailpass valid in France or Italy will give you a €6 discount on the €76 Depart+Go fare. So you pay €70 in all.

5. More information and booking

Web sites are great for travel planning, and you can book most or even all these tickets online now – even before you leave the US. We would advise that, rather than waiting (as you imply in your question) until you arrive in the UK to book tickets. 

And remember that the best deals will always be on the websites run by the rail operators - not those run by agents outside Europe. To get the best from those websites, use the native language versions of them.

Once your exact itinerary is clear we can advise you the best site to book each leg. You could end up using such a variety of services, that you might be looking to a mix of train companies for your bookings: Eurostar, DB, Thalys, Artesia, SNCF, Trenitalia, SBB, ÖBB and more besides.

With a packed itinerary like this, and so many trains, there will surely be a hitch or two along the way. In such cases, there is no substitute for a printed timetable – and it is good at the planning phase too. We suggest you purchase the current (ie. March 2010) issue of the Thomas Cook European Rail Timetable. Details are available on the Thomas Cook website. That will be a great asset in planning.

You might also consider getting the June issue in due course too – just to ensure that the schedules you have with you on the actual journey are bang up-to-date.

6. Apologia

So, Victor, we fear we have not answered your questions quite as you would have wished. But we hope that in these words there is something that will assist you in your travel planning. We wish you and your two traveling companions a fun time as you journey through Europe.

Susanne and Nicky run a Berlin-based editorial bureau that supplies text and images to media across Europe. Together they edit hidden europe magazine. You can read more of their writing in their regular e-brief and in the Notes section on their website.

Popularity: 1% [?]

A bus in Rome. Photo by Samantha Collins.

By Samantha Collins in Rome—

One of the things about Rome that never fails to impress me is the value for money offered by the public transport system. While locals complain about the limited metro system (only two lines at present) and the endless strikes, you cannot help but be impressed at the simplicity of the “one ticket fits all” approach.

The metrebus ticket and the one-day pass

The “metrebus” (metro-train-bus) €1 ticket permits you to ride on the bus, tram, or local train for any distance. (The ticket is also good for one trip on the metro underground line.) The journey is only limited by time: the ticket expires after 75 minutes.

Upgrading to a €4 ticket allows you to enjoy unlimited rides until midnight. Routes are clearly marked, so get a public transport map from one of the many newspaper kiosks, study the routes, get your elbows ready, and hop on board to see where you end up…

The Metro

There are two metro lines, Linea A (the well-kept “tourist” red line) and Linea B (the commuter line which is a little rough around the edges). The city is trying to open a third line, but progress is slow, as workers keep unearthing archaeological treasures.

Linea A highlights include the Spanish Steps (Spagna), the Trevi Fountain (Barberini), the Teatro del Opera (Repubblica) and the Vatican (Ottiviano). Linea B takes you to Circus Massimus (Circo Massimo) and the Colosseum (Colosseo).

For stops a little off the tourist map, exit at EUR Palasport and emerge near a park with a boating lake where you can spend a nice afternoon relaxing away from the city center chaos. View a metro map here.

The Bus

An endless stream of buses travels through the city center, with the main connection points being Termini Station, Largo Argentina, Piazza Venezia, and Piazza Cavour. The bus system also offers regular service to the main sights, such as the Vatican and the Colosseum.

The stops are clearly posted and signs give detailed information about each service. Regular buses stop around midnight, but a night service runs until around 5-6 AM.

Try exploring beyond the center. For example, the 118 from Piramide will take you out to Appia Antica, providing a Cheapo alternative to the expensive tourist bus service that runs there.

The Train

The “metrebus” ticket also includes the use of the local train services. Head to Piramide and catch the connecting Lido train to enjoy a day at the beach in Ostia (30 minutes away) or to explore the ancient ruins at Ostia Antica (25 minutes).

If you’re catching a flight at Ciampino, you can also travel from Termini to the airport on your €1 ticket, a journey of 15 minutes, and then just pay another €1 to take the airport shuttle bus. The express service to Fiumicino Airport is not covered by the “metrebus” ticket.

Buying a ticket

You can buy “metrebus” tickets from newspaper kiosks, ticket kiosks, and at machines found in the metro stations. You can sometimes buy them on the bus from a machine, though not always.

You must always stamp the ticket at one of the yellow machines to validate your ticket and begin the 75-minute time limit (on the bus, on the tram, or close to the platform for trains) unless you use the metro, in which case it is done automatically when you go through the barrier. Make sure you do this, because if the inspectors catch you with an unstamped ticket, you will be fined—even if you are a tourist and claim ignorance.

Tips for using the system—safely

Avoid using the metro between 7:30-9 AM and 5-6:30 PM, as it is very packed with commuters and you may find yourself far closer to the locals than you ever expected. If you travel around rush hour, keep an eye out, as crowded metro and bus stations are havens for pickpockets and beggars.

Carry €1 coins with you, especially if catching the metro at night, as the change machines do not work and the kiosks will be closed.

To find routes online, visit the official Rome transportation site.

Popularity: 3% [?]

The city of Kotor in Montenegro. Photo by Audrey Sykes.

By Audrey Sykes—

Lovely Montenegro, with its mountainous landscape and outdoor terrain, is a Southeastern European jewel worth visiting. Due to its cheap prices, the country is experiencing a boost in tourism and a revamping of its transportation options.

However, there are a few key things to keep in mind when planning how to get around Montenegro:

Avoid trains, unless you’re heading for the mountains

Unlike Western Europe, the local train system in Montenegro doesn’t cover much ground and makes rail travel difficult. The line is from northeast to southwest, starting in Bijelo Polje and ending in the coastal town of Bar. Trains are a good option when heading into the mountains, but pointless when staying on the seaside. Cheaper than the buses but not as efficient (and some would argue not as safe), railways are to be used at your own risk.

The wheels on the bus go ’round through town

Planes fly in and out of the capital of Podgorica and the touristy town of Tivat, though the most common way to enter is via bordering countries (Croatia or Serbia, for example) by bus. What the train system lacks in broad coverage, the country’s bus system makes up for in frequency and destination choice.

Buses in Montenegro, like in many countries in Southeast Europe, are not the newest, but they are reliable and get travelers from Point A to Point B in a timely manner (around 80 kilometers per hour on the highways). Smaller shuttle buses are also available at bus stations and sometimes cost less.

We didn’t find the bus stations to be terribly confusing or too large, although the local language doesn’t make things simple for foreigners. It’s quite easy to figure out which bus goes where and when, so make a match and stay alert for the departure call. When people begin to board your bus, that’s a good notion for you to do the same.

Avoid taxis

In short, buses are the best way to get from town to town, and travelers won’t have to deal with fretting over fair prices. This is not the case with taxis, and it won’t be easy to find a driver willing to give you a “local price.” Montenegro runs on the euro, and bus transit prices run cheap at €5 to €10 for a two to five-hour journey. A taxi driver will easily ask for twice as much without blinking an eye, so either be smart when bargaining with private transportation or hop on a bus and enjoy the ride.

Popularity: 3% [?]

The Kusttram travels along the Belgian coast. Photo © hidden europe.

Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries report from the coast of Belgium—

A surreal experience

Tucked away along the Belgian coast are some quite remarkable spots. And the tram route that every 20 minutes links communities along the coast is an essay in surrealism.

The tram binds René Magritte’s magnificent murals at the casino in Knokke (near the Dutch border at the northeast end of the tram route) to the gnomes who preside over affairs at Plopsaland at the southwest end of the route at De Panne (just a stone’s throw from the French border). In between those two end points there are giant bananas dangling from flagpoles, piers that lead nowhere, and sedate belle époque hotels that have had their sea views obliterated by apartment blocks.

From Plopsaland to Preventorium and beyond

De Haan Station, a stop along the coastal route.

It is about 70 kilometers from the French border near Plopsaland to the dune landscapes of Knokke on the Dutch border, and the coastal tram route has about 70 tram stops along the way. Preventorium, Krokodiel, and Manitoba are among them. Others have names of beguiling simplicity like Park, Station, YMCA, Esplanade, and Casino.

Oostende is the pivotal point in the journey—exactly midway along the route. It is a superb port community, and one that boasts one of the finest fish markets along the coast. The dunes may have been sacrificed to high-rise passions, but some perspectives are simply stunning. To walk from the terrace of the Thermae Palace Hotel at Oostende towards the port on a fine day is utterly memorable. There are graceful arcades, the inevitable statues of one or the other Leopold, and then the graceful curves of the casino. This is a town that once affected to be the Monte Carlo of the North. It is not for nothing that the square on the landward side of the casino is called Monacoplein.

And then there is De Haan, easily the most attractive of the communities along the tram route. Until the tram arrived in 1886, De Haan was a poor seaside village, populated by shrimp fishermen and families. It was just a scattered collection of huts, regarded with disfavor by folk in neighboring villages who judged De Haan to be the haunt of scoundrels and thieves. Within a few years of the arrival of the tram, De Haan developed into a select coastal resort—one that was later to number Albert Einstein among its visitors.

Coastal art

The Belgian coast has long been home to some of Europe’s most audacious artistic traditions. Surrealism was born here. And the coastal tram route features some striking modern art along the way. Expect anything from fake elephants to bronze nudes on the beaches. And yet amid the contemporary art by the sea, there are the reassuring routines of coastal life: “moules et frites,” the clanging bell of the soup man’s white van as he makes his morning deliveries to apartment blocks, the joggers with their dogs running along the promenade. Not to mention the tasty North Sea “bouillabaisse.”

A modest investment of €5 will give you the run of the coastal tram for an entire day, and the ticket is also valid on the bus routes that connect the tram stops with lovely Flanders villages inland. There is more than enough of interest to enjoy a longer stay exploring the coast. A three-day pass for tram and buses costs merely €10.

Susanne and Nicky run a Berlin-based editorial bureau that supplies text and images to media across Europe. Together they edit hidden europe magazine. You can read more of their writing in their regular e-brief and in the new Notes section on their website.

Popularity: 4% [?]

A train at Telefonplan Metro Station. Photo by harry_nl.

By Marcus Cederstrom in Stockholm—

Each day in Stockholm, 700,000 trips are made using public transportation. Considering only about 800,000 people live within Stockholm city limits, that number is pretty impressive. With the efficient and user-friendly SL, Stockholm’s public transportation company, it makes sense that so many Stockholmers take to the metro, buses, and more.

The lowdown

Stockholm is a very walk-able city, but if you’re less interested in wandering around than getting around efficiently (or if you just want to get out of the cold on your way to your next destination), public transportation is really the way to go. Subways, buses, trains, and even boats and street cars are covered by the SL umbrella, and every single one of them is clean and on time.

SL offers a smorgasbord (pun absolutely intended) of ticket options. Luckily, the SL website gives a great rundown of everything that is available. Some of the options are perfect for a short trip to Stockholm.

Standard and prepaid tickets

SL offers standard one-trip tickets. These are not worth your money if you plan on using public transportation more than once or twice, but they are worth explaining. Stockholm is broken up into three different zones according to SL. Zone A will cost you two tickets, Zone B will cost you three, and Zone C will cost you four.

Really, if you’re just staying in the city all you need to worry about is Zone A and the two ticket price. These tickets are only valid for an hour after you use them. If you plan on using public transportation more than four times during your stay in Stockholm, consider a pre-paid strip of tickets or a day pass.

The prepaid strip of tickets is 16 single tickets for the price of 180 SEK. This gives you eight trips within the city and ends up being about half the price of the standard one-trip tickets. You’ll get a stamp which, unfortunately, is only good for an hour after stamping. But remember, you’ve got seven more trips before you need to think about paying for transportation again.

Day passes

There are also day passes. The 24-hour pass costs 100 SEK, the 72- hour pass is 200 SEK, and the seven-day card is 260 SEK. Day passes are valid at any time and can be used as many times as you wish. Depending on your length of stay, day passes are a great way to save money and still get everywhere you want to go.

The Stockholm Card

Finally, there is Stockholmskortet, The Stockholm Card. The Stockholm Card ranges from 375 SEK for 24 hours to 595 SEK for 72 hours. It allows you free entrance to over 70 museums in Stockholm and gives you free access to public transportation.

Buy your ticket before boarding the bus

Note that you cannot buy tickets on the bus. Bus drivers stopped carrying money a couple of years ago in hopes of speeding up service and keeping everyone safer. There are plenty of places where you can buy tickets though, including SL service centers, most subway and train stations, Pressbyrån (a Swedish convenience store), and, if you happen to have a Swedish cell phone provider, with your cell phone.

Popularity: 6% [?]

Switzerland by train. Photo by Cookiepediachef.

By Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries in Berlin—

It is that time of year again when we start to look ahead to next year’s European rail schedules. As always, the December timetable change ushers in a host of new services and changes to existing routes. The new schedules kick in this year on Sunday December 13, 2009 and for most services in Europe bookings for the new timetable have opened in the last week or two.

In this briefing for EuroCheapo we take a look at what the 2010 schedules will mean for travelers bound for or traveling through Switzerland and Austria.

Crossing the Alps into Italy: The Cisalpino saga

Look for big changes this year in train services crossing the Alps into Italy. The troubled Cisalpino brand disappears as the Swiss and Italian railways (SBB and Trenitalia respectively) take over the express links from Switzerland via both the Simplon and Gotthard routes to Milan and beyond.

Few will mourn the passing of the unreliable Cisalpino trains, which were so detested by regular users that a pressure group called Cessoalpino was founded to highlight the shortcomings of the service. So Cisalpino really is about to disappear, a tribute to the power of consumer protest.

From mid-December this year, the principal services from Switzerland to Italy will run under the “EuroCity” brand. A simplified timetable will focus on the core services from Zürich and Geneva to Milan. The downside is that the useful daytime direct services from Zürich to Florence and from Basel to Venice and Trieste are dropped in the revised schedules. Henceforth a change of train in Milan will be necessary for these journeys.

When is a train not a train?

Further east, services from Vienna to Italy are completely reorganised, and not (in our view) for the better. When we book a train ticket, we expect to travel by train and not by bus. But that’s not the way the Austrian Railways (ÖBB) see it, and from December 13 travelers heading to Venice from eastern Austria must change onto buses at either Klagenfurt or Villach for the onward journey south into Italy. ÖBB claim that the buses are so sophisticated that “you will feel that you are riding on a train.” We remain to be convinced.

Tyrolean upgrade: Railjet to Zürich

The smart new ÖBB Railjet trains will be introduced on services running east from Zürich through the Austrian Tyrol to Innsbruck, Salzburg and Vienna. Most passengers will welcome this innovation, but we shall regret the loss of the rather stylish Swiss panorama coach which was always included in the morning train from Zürich. It was our favourite spot for Tyrolean sightseeing.

From Salzburg via the Tyrol to the Rhine Gorge

There is an interesting Tyrolean innovation for 2010. Starting from December 13, there will be a daily morning service from Salzburg that is replete with sightseeing-by-train possibilities.

The train criss-crosses the German/Austrian border to reach Innsbruck, follows the Arlberg route through the Tyrol, skirts Lake Constance, then takes a rural route northwest through Ulm and Heidelberg to reach the Rhine valley. It follows the traditional left bank route up the Rhine via Koblenz to Cologne. Great views of the Lorelei along the way.

No other European train so assiduously links the principal points in Austria and Germany favoured by North American visitors to Europe. The journey times from Salzburg to Heidelberg, Koblenz (for the Rhine gorge) and Cologne are nine, eleven and twelve hours respectively.

End of the line for the Orient Express

In other developments affecting the Alps region, the overnight sleeper train linking Amsterdam with Lugano (in the Swiss Ticino region) and Milan is withdrawn, as is the daily overnight train service from Zürich to Rome. The City Night Line Amsterdam to Vienna night sleeper is also dropped for 2010, but replaced in part by a new Cologne to Vienna overnight service which will be run by ÖBB.

Last but not least, the Orient Express service from Strasbourg to Vienna slips into history with the December timetable change. This service is the last surviving remnant of the grand train that once linked Paris with Istanbul. Over the years, the train’s route has been ever more curtailed. And the 126-year history of the Orient Express finally comes to an end next month. True romantics still have a last chance to ride the real Orient Express. Daily departures are from Strasbourg at 8.37 pm. Tickets are from €29 for the overnight journey to Vienna.

The bible for European rail travelers

We never leave home without our copy of the Thomas Cook European Rail Timetable. The December 2009 edition, published later this month, will include the 2010 schedules for most European rail routes.

About the authors: Susanne Kries and Nicky Gardner are regular contributors to EuroCheapo and together edit hidden europe magazine. Their writing and photography regularly feature in various European media. You can see the table of contents of the latest issue of hidden europe online.

Popularity: 6% [?]

The SNCF station at Charles de Gaulle airport.

By Liz Webber–

As Cheapos know, it’s almost always less expensive to buy train tickets directly through the website of a country’s national rail service rather than through RailEurope’s English-language site or overseas agents, especially for France’s TGV system. Fares can also be cheaper booking online than buying the tickets in person at the station.

However, booking a ticket in another language can be intimidating. France’s SNCF website is fairly easy to navigate, but if your French doesn’t extend much beyond “Parlez-vous anglais?” use this cheat sheet to book day trips from Paris or crisscross the country!

Step 1: Choose where and when you’re going

The SNCF homepage. Be strong!

On the SNCF homepage, there is a box on the left-hand side for quickly booking trains. First, enter the “départ” (where you’re ”departing” from) and “arrivée” (where you’ll be “arriving”).

Next choose your departure date in the box next to “Aller le” (”going the…”) and return date in the box next to “Retour le” (”returning the…”). If it’s a one-way journey (“aller-simple”) leave the return date blank. Note that the dates follow the European format of DD/MM/YYYY.

Also choose your desired departure time for both directions (“à partir de” means “starting from”). Remember that these times will be written in standard 24-hour format.

Specify how many people will be traveling using the drop-down menu next to “Adultes” (adults), and select either first or second class.

For direct trains only (without transfers), click the box marked “trajets directs.” Then hit the orange “Rechercher” (”search”) button to begin searching for tickets.

Note: Under the search box, you’ll notice a tempting array of little flags. If you’re already feeling a bit nervous, you’ll understandably be drawn to the English flag. Sure, clicking it will change the language to English–but it will also send all results through RailEurope, a helpful agency for foreign tourist that usually adds a substantial mark-up to ticket prices.

Step 2: Select your tickets

Now a page will open with options for the first half of your journey. Prices can vary greatly depending on the travel time and the day of the week, and only reflect half the cost of the total journey for a round-trip ticket (“aller-retour”). However, when booking for more than one person at a time the price reflects the total cost for all tickets.

The box at the top shows all the options at a glance, from which you can then scroll down to select the one that best fits your specifications. Tickets are color-coded by price range, whereby orange designates the cheapest fares, blue more moderate fares, and gray the most expensive.

When you check one of the circles to choose a ticket, a so-small-you-might-miss-it box pops up underneath all the options for that departure time that says “Choisir Ma Place” (“Choose My Seat”). From the drop-down menu, specify if you’d like to sit “à côté de” (next to) a particular seat, or simply give a preference for “fenêtre” (window) or “couloir” (aisle). Pretty much all trains in France have assigned seats, so be sure to keep that in mind when you go to board.

Note: If you’ve selected an “iDTGV” train, you will be permitted to choose your “ambiance.” “iDzap” is a train friendly to portable electronics, DVDs, cellphones, etc., while ”iDzen” restricts electronics, cellphones, and anything that makes noise.

Be careful of tickets marked only “non échangeable” (non-exchangeable) or “non remboursable” (non-refundable), though most fares cannot be exchanged or refunded “après départ” (after departure). Certain tickets must be paid for online and printed at home – if so the fine print will read “Paiement en ligne. Billet à imprimer vous-même” (”Online payment. Print your own ticket.”)

Once you have figured out what time you want to leave and have chosen your seat, click the orange box directly underneath marked “Valider cet aller” (”Validate this part of the trip”). Make sure you hit the right one!

You’ll then go through the same process again for the return journey. Again, remember that the price is for one way of the journey.

Step 3: Payment

On the following page, confirm that all parts of your journey are correct then click “Valider votre réservation” (”Validate your reservation”) to proceed.

Next come three questions before the actual payment.

IMPORTANT: Since the majority of SNCF ticket machines do not accept American credit cards, be sure to click “Gare ou boutique” (”Rail station or boutique”) for question 1 in order to pick up your tickets from a ticket window at the station. Also note that if you’re booking an iDTGV (as pictured), you will only be given the option of printing your own ticket.

Question 2 requires the input of a “civilité” (”title”), “nom” (”LAST name”), “prénom” (”FIRST name”) and e-mail address for confirmation purposes.

Under question 3, check the box to indicate that you agree with the SNCF terms and conditions. Then click “Valider votre commande” (”Validate your order”).

Finally, it’s time to enter your credit card information. Note: The card you use to book must be presented to pick up your tickets, so be sure to use the card that you’ll be taking with you on your trip.

After entering all your data, hit the “valider” button one last time to complete the transaction. A screen should pop up with your confirmation code, which will also be sent in an email along with your itinerary. Print either for your records and to bring with you when you collect your tickets.

Step 4: Picking up your tickets

Now comes the easy part! Simply head to your departure station with your credit card and booking number to get your tickets. Many SNCF agents even speak English and so can help you make any changes to your reservation and get you to where you’re supposed to be.

Departure tracks are usually announced 20-30 minutes before the train is scheduled to leave, so be sure to leave enough time to pick up your tickets and figure out where you need to go. And don’t forget to stamp your ticket in the machine by the track before getting on the train!

Bonus tip: Reserve now, pay later

The SNCF website lets you reserve a ticket online without paying for it in advance or even giving a credit card. On the pre-payment page, instead of clicking “Gare ou boutique” under question 1 hit “Option.” The red text lets you know the date and time by which you need to confirm your reservation (usually 24 or 48 hours before departure), and you’ll receive an email with a booking code.

If you’re not sure what your schedule will be like or don’t want to give out your information online, reserve your seat then bring your confirmation number to the station before departure to pick up and pay for your tickets.

Popularity: 13% [?]

The lovely town square at Horsovsky Tyn. Photos © hidden europe.

By Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries in Berlin—

Many tourists have a natural herding instinct. (Not you, of course, as you’re surely more discriminating than the average traveler!) However, the overwhelming majority of North Americans visiting the Czech Republic sadly still stay only in Prague.

Until this year, Eurail train passes did not even include the Czech Republic—although holders of Eurail passes valid in Germany or Austria could purchase a vastly overpriced add-on which allowed one return journey from the Czech border to Prague and back via the quickest route. It’s no surprise, therefore, that pass holders didn’t wander around the Czech Republic, but made a quick dash to the capital, stayed the usual two or three nights, and then headed straight back for the border.

One other Czech destination, Cesky Krumlov, developed a fad appeal for a spell, and backpackers drinking their way through Europe flocked to the small town in southern Bohemia only to find that the place also holds a magnetic pull for elderly Austrians who make day trips to Cesky Krumlov to indulge in coffee and cake.

Beyond Prague and Cesky Krumlov

Yet “Off the Beaten Path” Bohemia is a superbly good value, a part of Europe where the prices of accommodation, food, drinks and travel have scarcely risen over the last decade. Bohemia boasts some of the finest town squares in Europe and, for those who know their Hussites from their Habsburgs, some wonderful insights into the religious, political, and social history of central Europe.

5 Star Attractions in Bohemia

So, especially for EuroCheapo, here is the hidden europe quintet of perfect Bohemian hideaways. These are small towns, and are all very different places. Each surely warrants a visit in its own right, but taken as a fivesome, the quintet offer the very best of hidden Bohemia.

Western Bohemia: Horsovsky Tyn and Domazlice

Domazlice's town square.

Horsovsky Tyn and Domazlice are our two top choices for western Bohemia. The two towns are near the Bavarian border and just a dozen miles apart. They both boast superb town squares, utterly different from each other, but very beautiful. Both spots are about three hours by fast train from Prague.

Heading North: Litomerice

The city of Litomerice in northern Bohemia combines Hussite tradition with an almost Mediterranean, laid back approach to life. With another great central square, one of the largest in Europe, the city is by far the most accessible from Prague of our quintet of Bohemian stars, being just eighty minutes by train from the Czech capital.

Spa Diversions: Frantiskovy Lazne

Tucked away in the far northwest corner of both Bohemia and the Czech Republic are several small towns that deserve to be much better known. Some travellers have discovered the spa towns of Marianske Lazne (Marienbad) and Karlovy Vary (Karlsbad). But few foreigners venture to Frantiskovy Lazne, in our opinion the nicest of the trio of Czech spa towns close to the German border. It is four hours by direct train from Prague.

Following Goethe: Loket

Our fifth and last star town is Loket, a little hilltop town which the German poet Goethe is alleged to have said was his favorite spot in world. (This might be taken with a pinch of salt as Goethe was deeply infatuated with a local girl at the time, and nothing undermines impartiality of judgement quite like being in love.) It is four hours by train from Prague with one change along the way.

Eurail and the Czech Republic

We have already noted above that Eurail has extended its coverage to include the entire Czech Republic. But train fares are so remarkably cheap that purchasing a pass is hardly worthwhile. A one-way journey from Prague to the remotest corner of Bohemia by bus and train will never cost more than a few euros.

About the authors: Susanne Kries and Nicky Gardner are regular contributors to EuroCheapo and together edit hidden europe magazine. Their writing and photogaphy regularly feature in various European media.

Popularity: 8% [?]

Waiting for the Metro in Barcelona. Photo by Jamison.

By Regina Winkle-Bryan in Barcelona—

Barcelona is small enough that you can walk most places, but big enough that you will probably want to hop on the Metro or grab a ride at some point. Here’s the scoop on how to navigate Barcelona on a budget.

Metro

The Metro is the fastest way to get from point A to point B in the city. Buy a T-10 card for €7.70 (good for ten journeys on the Metro or bus) and you’re on your way (tickets and cards are sold in the Metro entrance; cash or credit card). The Metro is not dangerous unless you are going way out to the outskirts late at night. Open from 5 AM to 12 midnight Sunday through Thurs; 5 AM to 2 AM Fridays, and all night long Saturdays.

Bus

You might be intimidated by the bus system with its multicolored route maps. Never fear, it’s easier than it looks! It is much slower than the Metro but more scenic. You can use the same T-10 cards on the bus and the Metro. If you don’t have a card, you will have to buy a ticket—but be warned: the bus driver will only accept small change.

Train

If you’re planning to travel outside of Barcelona, the train will be the obvious transportation choice. The trains that serve Catalonia are called the Cercanias (‘the close ones’) and the company is RENFE.

Here’s a tip: Don’t buy your RENFE tickets online. Go to the office. The RENFE website is a bit of a mess, although you can usually find the train departure times and locations on it with relatively little hassle. The main train stations are Passeig de Gracia and Sants Estacio.

Biking Barcelona. Photo by Silatix.

Bike

Renting a bike for a day is not expensive (€7-15), and it’s a fabulous way to explore the city (just be prepared for riding in traffic!). A word to the wise: Do not leave your bike unattended. Check Bike Rental Barcelona, which offers bicycles rentals from €10.

Taxi

Taxi fares are relatively reasonable, especially if you are a group of three of four people and can split the cost. Most rides across town will run you about €10. At night and on holidays, however, taxi prices are more expensive. Taxis to the airport will run about €25-30, and they will add a surcharge for your luggage.

Check out our Barcelona city guide for more Cheapo advice on planning your trip.

About the author: Regina W. Bryan is a Barcelona-based freelance writer and photographer. When not eating tapas and exploring Europe, she is tending her balcony veggie garden and practicing Catalan. For more of her thoughts on Spain, check: www.regwb.com and www.thespainscoop.com.

Popularity: 7% [?]

Berlin's newest U-Bahn line. Photo by Blogging Dagger.

By Susan Buzzelli in Berlin—

It may only have three stops, but Berlin’s newest (and shortest) subway line, the U55, makes it easier than ever to explore the city’s major sights.

Designed with tourists and politicos in mind, the U55 conveniently links the Brandenburger Tor (Brandenburg Gate) to the Hauptbahnhof (central train station), with a stop in the heart of the Regierungsviertel (the government district, where the Reichstag and the Kanzleramt are located) in between. When the U55 debuted on August 8, 2009, 70,000 passengers hopped on for the three-minute ride.

Situated at the base of the landmark-studded Pariser Platz, the sleek Brandenburger Tor station, sheathed in marbled brown stone, is the most architecturally interesting of the new stops. The station also comes with a free museum: photo collages along the walls provide a history of the 18th-century Brandenburg Gate, which was once blockaded by the Berlin Wall. (Look out for the photo of John F. Kennedy with the city’s then-mayor Willy Brandt.)

Cheapo transit ticket tips

The U55 is only one tiny link in Berlin’s vast transportation chain. Because it’s nearly impossible to explore the sprawling metropolis without catching a U-bahn (subway), S-bahn (commuter rail), Tram (streetcar), or Bus, getting to know the Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG) is key for a stress-free and Cheapo visit. Even if you prefer the other Cheapo-friendly way to get around Berlin—by rental bike—you’ll inevitably “get on board” at some point during your stay.

Don’t make the mistake of shelling out €2.10 for an “Einzelfahrausweis” (single ticket) or €1.30 for a “Kurzstrecke” (short ride, between 1–6 stops) every time you take a ride. Snap up a “Tageskarte” (day ticket, €6.10) or a “7-Tage-Karte” (7-day card, €26.20) instead, and you’ll not only get your money’s worth, but you’ll also give your feet a break from all that walking.

Check out the BVG’s website for complete details about fares and to download the free “Discovering Berlin by Train and Bus” flier. It includes a transport map and a city map marked with major sights.

The U55's celebratory first ride. Photo by Blogging Dagger.

Free Tourist Bus: The bus 100 and 200

The BVG does more than schlep you from Point A to B. The bus lines 100 and 200 double as unofficial city tour buses. As you travel between Zoologischer Garten in the west and Alexanderplatz in the east, you’ll pass by nearly every major landmark, including the Kaiser Wilhelm Gedächtniskirche (Emperor Wilhelm Memorial Church) on Kufürstendamm, the angel-capped Siegesäule (Victory Column) in Tiergarten, and the Brandenburger Tor at the base of Unter den Linden. Climb to the top of the double-decker bus, grab a window seat, and enjoy the view—all for €2.10.

Beer and a tram ride: The M10

To sample Berlin’s nightlife without paying a cover charge, buy a beer at a late-night kiosk and take a ride on the M10 streetcar, which travels between Nordbahnhof (on the Mitte/Prenzlauer Berg border) and Warschauer Strasse (on the Friedrichshain/Kreuzberg border).

When night falls, the so-called “party express” tram turns into club of sorts: club-crawlers and bar-hoppers, beers in hand, hitch a ride on the way to party spots in Prenzlauer Berg, Friedrichshain, and Kreuzberg. You’ll see a kaleidoscope of types: hyped-up dance-clubbers, low-key hipsters, pierced punks, and chained gothsters. (If you join them out on the town, a night bus, designated with an N, will take you home after the festivities.)

Sea even more: The F10

The BVG will even take you out to sea. You can cross two of the city’s largest lakes, the Wannsee in the west and the Müggelsee in the east, by ferry.

If you’re out west, pick up the F10, which docks just outside the Wannsee S-bahn stop, for a ride across the tree-fringed lake to the village of Kladow. Over in the east, take either the F23 or the F24 to criss-cross the vast Müggelsee, which includes the smaller Kleiner Müggelsee, a popular swimming hole, and the Grosser Müggelsee, which fills up with sail boats on sunny days.

About the author: A Pittsburgh native, Susan Buzzelli has been a sworn Germanophile since she spent a high school summer as an exchange student in Buxtehude. After stints in Dresden, Munich, and Hamburg she settled (possibly for good) in Europe’s most dynamic city: Berlin. When she isn’t exploring Berlin, she’s traveling throughout Germany (with an occasional hop over the border). Her comprehensive guidebook to Germany, Zeitguide Germany, will be published soon. Look for updates on her website, www.susanbuzzelli.com.

Popularity: 8% [?]