Trip Planning: The dangers that lurk behind new ferry and air routes

Wednesday, March 3rd, 2010

By Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries—

Travelling around Europe, we are so often struck how the start dates advertised by new transportation operators are all too frequently hopelessly optimistic. On the whole, Europe’s rail companies are pretty good when it comes to sticking exactly to what they say in their pre-launch publicity. But airlines and ferries much less so, for the late delivery of a first aircraft or ship to a new venture can so easily lead to delays.

Over-optimism on the part of a new venture’s promoters, difficulties in securing regulatory approval, and under-capitalization are all potential pitfalls for which even the most lavish PR show cannot compensate. Some ventures never get going at all. Air Vardar, Air Maxi, and GetJet are just three of many European airlines that went bust before having flown a single revenue flight.

Planning your trip to Europe

So, as Cheapos plan their spring and summer travels around Europe, it is just worth checking on carrier details. If your itinerary relies critically on a new air or ferry route in its opening week or two of operation, just be aware that all may not go absolutely according to plan.

And if a flight or sailing is canceled, while the operator will usually quickly refund your fare, you may be left with a gaping hole in your travel schedule that can only be filled at very high cost. Those cheap promotional fares on offer from a wannabe airline or start-up ferry company may look great on paper, but if the venture folds or the launch is postponed, you may rue the day you opted for the new kid on the block.

Even well established carriers are not immune to such start up problems. In late 2008, Ryanair was due to launch a new Edinburgh base, but just a fortnight before starting a raft of new routes from the Scottish capital, delays in aircraft delivery forced the Irish carrier to defer its Edinburgh launch by six weeks.

False Starts: Two topical examples

This week has seen a few false starts as some carriers were just a shade too optimistic in their plans for new services. We mention just two here, by way of example. Fastnet Line announced that its new ferry link from Ireland to Wales would debut on March 1, 2010 - St David’s Day, always a treat in Wales. That was deferred after a last-minute glitch.

Some companies really specialize in false starts. Would-be ferry operator Euroferries has confidently promoted its claim to be the leading fast ferry operator on the English Channel. The company does not actually own a single vessel. Euroferries was due to debut on the Ramsgate (England) to Boulogne (France) route in March 2009, but has thrice delayed its start date since. Press reports late last year suggested that Euroferries would eventually set sail on March 1, 2010, and the publication of a timetable effective March 1 on the company’s website gave credence to those reports. But March 1 has come and gone without any ferry operations.

The bottom line

So the moral of this tale is that the misplaced optimism of others can all too easily wreck a traveler’s best laid plans. Check, check, and check again. And on the eve of departure try and ascertain if the service really will start as planned. It is often best to check by phone, as companies needing to postpone a launch are often slow in updating their websites. Bad news spreads too quickly on the internet.

Susanne and Nicky run a Berlin-based editorial bureau that supplies text and images to media across Europe. Together they edit hidden europe magazine. You can read more of their writing in their regular e-brief and in the Notes section on their website.

Popularity: 2% [?]

Florence: Using the Florence Bus System

Thursday, February 25th, 2010
A bus in Florence. Photo by waxorian.

A bus in Florence. Photo by waxorian.

By Laura Mongillo in Florence—

Florence is a small and very walkable city, but that doesn’t mean you’ll never need a break from treading the cobblestone streets. Thus, visitors to Florence will benefit from understanding the city’s bus network.

Here’s a warning: it’s not easy, but it can be done. It’s always tempting to take the hop-on hop-off tourist buses, but if you don’t feel like shelling out €20, you should learn to travel like the locals.

The basics

The bus lines in Florence are pretty complicated, and they often change due to roadwork. The easiest thing to do is to pick up a bus map or ask the driver where the bus goes. However, it’s always best to plan out a bus trip beforehand so as not to get lost, as most buses continue outside of the city center. Route information can be found on the Florence bus Web site.

To catch a ride with the bus, you must first flag it down, as the driver only stops upon request. To get off at your stop, press the buttons on the railings or against the wall.

Tickets: Where (and why) to buy

Tickets cost €1.20 and are valid for 90 minutes. If you’re planning on taking the bus often, it’s more convenient to buy a Carta Agile for €10. The Carta Agile is an electronic ticket good for 12 journeys. You can buy one at any “tabaccheria” (tobacco store), which is marked by a large “T” over the door.  In a pinch, you can also buy a ticket from the bus driver at the higher price of €2.

In Florence, bus tickets work on the honor system: there is a machine inside where you either time-stamp your ticket or swipe your Carta Agile over the sensor to validate it.

It is all too easy to ride without a ticket, but I would greatly advise against this. Tickets are being controlled more often and the ticket controllers don’t fall for the dumb/cute foreigner bit. You will leave with a minimum €50 fine, paid on site.

Popular routes

If you’re touring central Florence and can’t stand to walk one more bit, there are small electric buses that service the city center on weekdays. The buses A, B, C, and D stop in main tourist areas such as Piazza San Marco, Santa Croce, Piazza Repubblica, and the Ponte Vecchio.

If the weather is nice, try taking Bus 17 from San Marco or the train station out to the Cascine, the Central Park of Florence. You’ll find long green lawns, tree-lined promenades, and plenty of kids playing soccer. It’s a great way to get some fresh air and lovely views of the river.

A few main attractions in Florence aren’t easily reachable on foot. Among these are the Piazzale Michelangelo, a large square offering lovely, panoramic views of the city, and the gorgeous church of San Miniato just up the hill. To get there you can take either the 12 or 13 bus from the Santa Maria Novella train station. The trip takes about 30 minutes, but the views are well worth it.

And don’t forget the hilltop town of Fiesole which you can reach by taking Bus 7 to its final stop. (See our earlier post about day trips to Fiesole.)

Popularity: 2% [?]

Rome Transportation: How far can you go with the €1 metrebus ticket?

Monday, February 22nd, 2010
A bus in Rome. Photo by Samantha Collins.

A bus in Rome. Photo by Samantha Collins.

By Samantha Collins in Rome—

One of the things about Rome that never fails to impress me is the value for money offered by the public transport system. While locals complain about the limited metro system (only two lines at present) and the endless strikes, you cannot help but be impressed at the simplicity of the “one ticket fits all” approach.

The metrebus ticket and the one-day pass

The “metrebus” (metro-train-bus) €1 ticket permits you to ride on the bus, tram, or local train for any distance. (The ticket is also good for one trip on the metro underground line.) The journey is only limited by time: the ticket expires after 75 minutes.

Upgrading to a €4 ticket allows you to enjoy unlimited rides until midnight. Routes are clearly marked, so get a public transport map from one of the many newspaper kiosks, study the routes, get your elbows ready, and hop on board to see where you end up…

The Metro

There are two metro lines, Linea A (the well-kept “tourist” red line) and Linea B (the commuter line which is a little rough around the edges). The city is trying to open a third line, but progress is slow, as workers keep unearthing archaeological treasures.

Linea A highlights include the Spanish Steps (Spagna), the Trevi Fountain (Barberini), the Teatro del Opera (Repubblica) and the Vatican (Ottiviano). Linea B takes you to Circus Massimus (Circo Massimo) and the Colosseum (Colosseo).

For stops a little off the tourist map, exit at EUR Palasport and emerge near a park with a boating lake where you can spend a nice afternoon relaxing away from the city center chaos. View a metro map here.

The Bus

An endless stream of buses travels through the city center, with the main connection points being Termini Station, Largo Argentina, Piazza Venezia, and Piazza Cavour. The bus system also offers regular service to the main sights, such as the Vatican and the Colosseum.

The stops are clearly posted and signs give detailed information about each service. Regular buses stop around midnight, but a night service runs until around 5-6 AM.

Try exploring beyond the center. For example, the 118 from Piramide will take you out to Appia Antica, providing a Cheapo alternative to the expensive tourist bus service that runs there.

The Train

The “metrebus” ticket also includes the use of the local train services. Head to Piramide and catch the connecting Lido train to enjoy a day at the beach in Ostia (30 minutes away) or to explore the ancient ruins at Ostia Antica (25 minutes).

If you’re catching a flight at Ciampino, you can also travel from Termini to the airport on your €1 ticket, a journey of 15 minutes, and then just pay another €1 to take the airport shuttle bus. The express service to Fiumicino Airport is not covered by the “metrebus” ticket.

Buying a ticket

You can buy “metrebus” tickets from newspaper kiosks, ticket kiosks, and at machines found in the metro stations. You can sometimes buy them on the bus from a machine, though not always.

You must always stamp the ticket at one of the yellow machines to validate your ticket and begin the 75-minute time limit (on the bus, on the tram, or close to the platform for trains) unless you use the metro, in which case it is done automatically when you go through the barrier. Make sure you do this, because if the inspectors catch you with an unstamped ticket, you will be fined—even if you are a tourist and claim ignorance.

Tips for using the system—safely

Avoid using the metro between 7:30-9 AM and 5-6:30 PM, as it is very packed with commuters and you may find yourself far closer to the locals than you ever expected. If you travel around rush hour, keep an eye out, as crowded metro and bus stations are havens for pickpockets and beggars.

Carry €1 coins with you, especially if catching the metro at night, as the change machines do not work and the kiosks will be closed.

To find routes online, visit the official Rome transportation site.

Popularity: 2% [?]

The Barcelona Card Revisited: Is it still worth it?

Monday, February 8th, 2010
The CosmoCaixa science museum. Photo by Alan Bell.

The CosmoCaixa science museum. Photo by Alan Bell.

By Regina Winkle-Bryan in Barcelona—

Visitors to Barcelona (especially those who stop by the tourist office) will no doubt learn about the Barcelona Card for museum and transportation discounts.

A couple years ago, we were not sure if the Barcelona Card really packed enough bang for the buck. In fact, our conclusion was simple: the Barcelona Card? Not for us. This year, we’ve changed out minds a bit, and offer you another look at this discount card.

Barcelona Card. Photo courtesy of the Barcelona Card site.

Barcelona Card. Photo courtesy of the Barcelona Card site.

What to consider before buying

The Barcelona Card is about €28 for a two-day pass, and this includes a paper guidebook that comes with the card.  You really need to ask yourself: How much of an effort am I going to make to use this card?

If you make a point to go to the museums, restaurants, bars, and shows discounted through the card, then yes, you are going to save yourself some dinero. If you simply use it a few times and then lose it or forget about it, then you would be better off just sticking with the Articket (or nothing at all).

Museum discounts

Many of Barcelona’s museums are free with the card—however, some of them that the card lists, like CaixaForum, are free anyway!

You’ll find some good museums on the Barcelona Card’s free-entry list (Museu de Ceramica, Museu Chocolate, Cosmo Caixa), but none of them are must-see museums. Rather, they are more specialty museums that will appeal to travelers with more time on their hands in Barcelona, or with a certain enthusiasm for say, Spanish and ceramics.

The big dogs of Barcelona museums (El Palau de la Musica and Casa Batllo) are only 20% off with the Barcelona Card, and many other must-see monuments, such as the Sagrada Familia, aren’t covered by the card at all.

Transportation and other perks

One perk that the card does offer is free public transportation around the city and to and from the airport. This part of the card I appreciate.

For ten trips on the Metro in Barcelona, you will pay €8 (if you buy the T-10). A ride to the airport on the airport bus? That’s another €5, one way. So you are looking at €15-20 in transport (depending how long you are in the city and how much you want to walk, of course), which you could deduct from the Barcelona Card price.

The card also offers some nice discounts on the zoo, IMAX theater, and aquarium, so if you have kids it might pay off. I am not impressed by the discounts the card offers at local restaurants or shops, but I do like the 10% off at bars Dry Martini and Gimlet.

Again, it comes down to whether or not you will remember to use the card after two dirty vodka martinis…

The bottom line

To conclude, as a local here in Barcelona, I am neither for nor against the Barcelona Card. It is not something I will insist that my friends buy when they come to the city for a visit, as I do with the Articket. However, if you are going to spend a week in the city, then this card could save you some cash.  And, with the dollar taking a serious beating from the euro, that might be a really good thing.

Popularity: 3% [?]

Montenegro Transportation Tips: Trains, buses, and taxis

Tuesday, February 2nd, 2010
The city of Kotor in Montenegro. Photo by Audrey Sykes.

The city of Kotor in Montenegro. Photo by Audrey Sykes.

By Audrey Sykes—

Lovely Montenegro, with its mountainous landscape and outdoor terrain, is a Southeastern European jewel worth visiting. Due to its cheap prices, the country is experiencing a boost in tourism and a revamping of its transportation options.

However, there are a few key things to keep in mind when planning how to get around Montenegro:

Avoid trains, unless you’re heading for the mountains

Unlike Western Europe, the local train system in Montenegro doesn’t cover much ground and makes rail travel difficult. The line is from northeast to southwest, starting in Bijelo Polje and ending in the coastal town of Bar. Trains are a good option when heading into the mountains, but pointless when staying on the seaside. Cheaper than the buses but not as efficient (and some would argue not as safe), railways are to be used at your own risk.

The wheels on the bus go ’round through town

Planes fly in and out of the capital of Podgorica and the touristy town of Tivat, though the most common way to enter is via bordering countries (Croatia or Serbia, for example) by bus. What the train system lacks in broad coverage, the country’s bus system makes up for in frequency and destination choice.

Buses in Montenegro, like in many countries in Southeast Europe, are not the newest, but they are reliable and get travelers from Point A to Point B in a timely manner (around 80 kilometers per hour on the highways). Smaller shuttle buses are also available at bus stations and sometimes cost less.

We didn’t find the bus stations to be terribly confusing or too large, although the local language doesn’t make things simple for foreigners. It’s quite easy to figure out which bus goes where and when, so make a match and stay alert for the departure call. When people begin to board your bus, that’s a good notion for you to do the same.

Avoid taxis

In short, buses are the best way to get from town to town, and travelers won’t have to deal with fretting over fair prices. This is not the case with taxis, and it won’t be easy to find a driver willing to give you a “local price.” Montenegro runs on the euro, and bus transit prices run cheap at €5 to €10 for a two to five-hour journey. A taxi driver will easily ask for twice as much without blinking an eye, so either be smart when bargaining with private transportation or hop on a bus and enjoy the ride.

Popularity: 3% [?]

Madrid Metro and Taxis: Cheapo tips for getting around

Monday, January 25th, 2010
Follow the red diamonds (and our advice) to use the Metro wisely. Photo by Diorama Sky.

Follow the red diamonds. Photo by Diorama Sky.

By Cynthia Kane in Madrid—

Transportation is easy in Madrid, but if you aren’t aware of your options, you may end up losing money when you’re trying to save it. Here are some tips to help you get to where you’re going and still have money to spend once you get there!

10 bus or metro rides with the “billete de diez”

Although metro tickets are only €1 for a single ride within Madrid, buying multiple single journey tickets can actually cost you more than if you buy a metro pack. One option is to buy a ticket for 10 rides, which is otherwise known as a “billete de diez” or “Metrobús.” The cost is €7.40 and you can use this ticket to travel anywhere within Zone A, which is where most of the tourist attractions in the city are located.

What’s great about these tickets is that they can be used on both the metro and buses, and there is no expiration date! You can buy the “billete de diez” at any metro station, “estanco” (tobacco shop), and at the kiosks located in the metro station. You can’t, however, buy these passes on the bus.

Unlimited travel with the “Abono Turistico” pass

The second option for cheap metro travel is the “Abono Turístico.” This pass gives you unlimited travel throughout the city of Madrid on the metro and buses, and is also valid on the “cercanías,” trains that take you to Madrid’s surrounding areas. You can buy a pass for either 1-5 days or 7 days, and for either zone A or to for the entire Community of Madrid.

This pass is a great option if you know you are going to be traveling outside the city center for day trips. A one-day adult pass for only zone A is €5.20. For a 1-day pass that includes the Community of Madrid the cost is €10.40. A seven-day pass for travel in zone A is €23.60, and for travel that includes the Community of Madrid it is €47.20.

You will need your passport to buy the “Abono Turistico.” It can be purchased in metro stations, the tourism office in Madrid, at hotels, or online.

The “Abono” ticket for longer stays

A third option if you are in town for a month is to buy a season ticket, simply called an “Abono.” The “Abono” is valid for the entire calendar month, so it’s beneficial to buy the pass before the month begins. Zone A should cover everywhere you’d want to go, unless you are planning to travel outside the city.

An adult “Abono” for travel within Zone A costs €46. There are reductions in cost for young people and those over 65. To purchase the “Abono,” you will need your passport and a small passport size photo, and they can be purchased at most tobacco shops around the city.

Taxi Tips

Two quick tips about taking a taxi in Madrid:

For normal rides you do not need to tip the driver. Of course if you want to, go ahead. But again, you can save an extra euro just by knowing it’s not customary to do so.

Secondly, the meter always starts at €2.05, but depending on where you’re going and the time of day, you may be charged an extra fee on top of that.

There is an additional charge from 11 PM to 6 AM, on Sundays and public holidays, and there are extra supplements for travel starting from a bus or train station (€2.95), from the airport (€5.50), and to and from the IFEMA fair complex (€2.95).

About the author: Cynthia Kane is the editor of MAPMagazine.com, a Madrid travel e-zine, written by native English-speaking Madrid experts.

Popularity: 4% [?]

Helsinki: Is the Helsinki Card worth it?

Tuesday, January 19th, 2010
The Ateneum Museum in Helsinki. Photo by John Donges.

The Ateneum Museum in Helsinki. Photo by John Donges.

By Sarah Silbert—

In the costly city of Helsinki, opportunities to cut costs are always welcome. While finding a budget-friendly bed is possible, some hefty expenses (museums, meals, and nights on the town) are unavoidable.

If you’re planning a trip to the Finnish capital, chances are you’ll see the Helsinki Card advertised as a must-have for visitor discounts. But at a hefty €34 for a single day of visits, the tourist pass is a bit of an investment for cost-conscious Cheapos. So, is the Helsinki Card worth it?

What it offers

The Helsinki Card includes free admission to 40 museums (including the wonderful Ateneum and Kiasma art museums), as well as unlimited travel on Helsinki’s tram, bus, and ferry system. The card also offers a free city tour and discounts on day trips to nearby city of Tallinn in Estonia.

The Helsinki Card. Photo from the Helsinki Card site.

For those planning on sampling some traditional Finnish culture, the card also offers discounts at a number of restaurants—and even the city’s famous swimming hall and sauna.

Cost

Here are the 2010 prices for the Helsinki Card:

24-hour Helsinki Card costs €34 (€13 for children under 16).
48-hour card costs €45 (€16).
72-hour card costs €55 (€19).

Should you buy it?

There are a number of things to consider before deciding if the Helsinki Card is worth the euros.

Firstly, do you plan on hitting up lots of museums during your stay? Helsinki museums charge around €8—and can skyrocket up to €16 in the event of a special exhibition (such as the Picasso event currently showing at the Ateneum).

Not so fast! Even if museums are a top priority for you, note that many museums offer free admission of the first Wednesday of the month. If you plan to visit more than five museums, or your thirst for Finnish culture can’t be quenched in one Wednesday, the Helsinki Card is your best bet.

Also worth considering is how often you’ll use transportation. Helsinki is a small city, and most sights are within walking distance of one another. That said, there are a few notable exceptions located outside the city center. To reach the famous Sibelius Monument or the seaside ice-swimming Rastila camp site, you’ll need to take the tram or metro. If you’re staying in the center of town, however, there’s no need to step aboard at €2.50 a pop; the city is best explored on foot.

The bottom line

Ultimately, a realistic sense of what (and how much) you plan to see in Helsinki should inform your decision. Keep in mind that the Helsinki Card is really only worth the euros if your trip is jam-packed with sightseeing and museum-visiting.

Tip: If you do buy this tourist pass, make sure to do so online, as you’ll save €3. If you’re considering a jaunt to Tallinn or the island fortress of Suomenlinna (also covered by the card), purchase the two- or three-day Helsinki Card, so you’re able to take advantage of the card’s discounts at a more leisurely pace.

Popularity: 3% [?]

Istanbul Budget Tips: Transit tickets, bazaar shopping, ferries, and nightlife

Tuesday, January 12th, 2010
Maiden's Tower at sunset. Photo by Audrey Sykes.

Maiden's Tower at sunset. Photo by Audrey Sykes.

By Audrey Sykes—

It’s unsurprising that a city like Istanbul, with a population of about 12.6 million, offers an endless list of sight-seeing must-visits. Considering that even small expenses can add up, here are five pointers to help keep your budget in check.

Transport: Use one-ways wisely

Getting around Istanbul can be tough to figure out. One of the most important things to know is that the city’s public transport fares are one-way. The driver will charge about 1.5 Turkish Lira each time you hop on. In short, plan a destination route from Point A to B as directly as possible before boarding the bus or tram. This will help avoid frivolous spending, getting dumped in an unfamiliar spot, and developing a serious headache.

Bazaar Tip: Shop outside the Bazaar’s center

Istanbul’s Bazaar is full of flavorful smells, sights, and sounds… most of which is available for purchase. Bargaining is common, although prices can start high and flexibility might not be as loose as desired. The best way to find a cheap price is to venture through the 60+ alleyways that cut through the heart of the Bazaar. In the end, finding the “local’s corner” can mean finding scarves for one-fourth of the price quoted in the Bazaar’s center.

On the Bosphorus: Regular ferries are the cheapest

Many boat companies advertise similarly-routed tours along the Bosphorus at high prices. The best price, however, for a few-hour’s journey along the strait will be found by simply taking the local ferry. For 7.50 Turkish Lira (roundtrip) take the ferry from Eminonu leaving at 10:35 AM (winter and summer), noon, and 1:35 PM (summer only). The ending point is Anadolu, a scenic area from where the Black Sea is visible.

Nightlife: Head to Taksim for moderately-priced Istanbul fun

Forget about finding affordable meals and deals near the Sultanahmet area. Head to Taksim to experience a lively nightlife scene to which the city’s locals flock. Nargile cafes, restaurants, and a slew of clubs are packed into the district, and prices won’t shock your budget. Places along Taksim Square and the major shopping street are still costly and lack the local flavor found within alleys and side streets.

A Breather: The easiest escape for peace and romance

In-between the Europe and Asian side of Istanbul is the Maiden’s Tower (or Kiz Kuelsi), a small island smack dab in the middle of the Bosphorus ideal for gazing at sunsets and panoramic photo ops. At the bottom sits a restaurant a bit on the steep side; on top you’ll find a more modestly priced café. Ferries frequently run back and forth from both sides of the city (7 Turkish Lira roundtrip). It’s an overall incredible view of Istanbul’s sparkling city landscape in a quiet, tranquil setting.

About the author: Audrey Sykes hopped across the pond from the US three years ago for a Masters degree in global journalism. Since then, she’s lived all over Europe, reporting and editing for music sites, snowboard mags, and travel media.

Popularity: 4% [?]

Cruising the Belgian Coast: The world’s longest tram route

Wednesday, December 9th, 2009
The Kusttram

The Kusttram travels along the Belgian coast. Photo © hidden europe.

Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries report from the coast of Belgium—

A surreal experience

Tucked away along the Belgian coast are some quite remarkable spots. And the tram route that every 20 minutes links communities along the coast is an essay in surrealism.

The tram binds René Magritte’s magnificent murals at the casino in Knokke (near the Dutch border at the northeast end of the tram route) to the gnomes who preside over affairs at Plopsaland at the southwest end of the route at De Panne (just a stone’s throw from the French border). In between those two end points there are giant bananas dangling from flagpoles, piers that lead nowhere, and sedate belle époque hotels that have had their sea views obliterated by apartment blocks.

From Plopsaland to Preventorium and beyond

De Haan Station, a stop along the coastal route.

De Haan Station, a stop along the coastal route.

It is about 70 kilometers from the French border near Plopsaland to the dune landscapes of Knokke on the Dutch border, and the coastal tram route has about 70 tram stops along the way. Preventorium, Krokodiel, and Manitoba are among them. Others have names of beguiling simplicity like Park, Station, YMCA, Esplanade, and Casino.

Oostende is the pivotal point in the journey—exactly midway along the route. It is a superb port community, and one that boasts one of the finest fish markets along the coast. The dunes may have been sacrificed to high-rise passions, but some perspectives are simply stunning. To walk from the terrace of the Thermae Palace Hotel at Oostende towards the port on a fine day is utterly memorable. There are graceful arcades, the inevitable statues of one or the other Leopold, and then the graceful curves of the casino. This is a town that once affected to be the Monte Carlo of the North. It is not for nothing that the square on the landward side of the casino is called Monacoplein.

And then there is De Haan, easily the most attractive of the communities along the tram route. Until the tram arrived in 1886, De Haan was a poor seaside village, populated by shrimp fishermen and families. It was just a scattered collection of huts, regarded with disfavor by folk in neighboring villages who judged De Haan to be the haunt of scoundrels and thieves. Within a few years of the arrival of the tram, De Haan developed into a select coastal resort—one that was later to number Albert Einstein among its visitors.

Coastal art

The Belgian coast has long been home to some of Europe’s most audacious artistic traditions. Surrealism was born here. And the coastal tram route features some striking modern art along the way. Expect anything from fake elephants to bronze nudes on the beaches. And yet amid the contemporary art by the sea, there are the reassuring routines of coastal life: “moules et frites,” the clanging bell of the soup man’s white van as he makes his morning deliveries to apartment blocks, the joggers with their dogs running along the promenade. Not to mention the tasty North Sea “bouillabaisse.”

A modest investment of €5 will give you the run of the coastal tram for an entire day, and the ticket is also valid on the bus routes that connect the tram stops with lovely Flanders villages inland. There is more than enough of interest to enjoy a longer stay exploring the coast. A three-day pass for tram and buses costs merely €10.

Susanne and Nicky run a Berlin-based editorial bureau that supplies text and images to media across Europe. Together they edit hidden europe magazine. You can read more of their writing in their regular e-brief and in the new Notes section on their website.

Popularity: 4% [?]

Renting a Car: Watch out for speeding tickets… and extra charges!

Friday, December 4th, 2009
Watch out for the speed traps... and hidden fees. Photo: Mint Imperial

Watch out for the speed traps... and hidden fees. Photo: Mint Imperial

By Justin Bergman in London—

This is a warning to anyone renting a car anywhere in Europe: know what you’re getting yourself in for!

The natural instinct when booking a car is to go with the absolute cheapest rate possible, but rental car companies are notorious for tacking on hidden fees and surcharges (some are worse than others) that can seriously inflate the cost of your trip. The one fee you must ask about up front in Europe is the cost of transferring your personal information to the police in cases of speeding or parking tickets.

I learned this the hard way. I never thought twice about this until a recent trip to the English countryside with my partner and two of our friends. I found a great deal for a two-day rental with Europcar (a nice, big car to fit the four of us)—all told, with insurance, it was around $100. Believe me, this is not bad for London. We had a great time driving through the picturesque villages in the Cotswolds, stuffing ourselves on fish and chips and waking up with sheep bleating in the pastures around our B&B.

Speeding tickets!

Then, in the span of six hours, on the same road, everything changed—and we suddenly found ourselves hundreds of dollars in the hole. Our car was photographed twice by speed-enforcement cameras—once going 35 mph in a 30-mph zone, and the other time going 38 mph.

I understand the need for drivers to keep their speeds down in and around country villages, but my partner (who was driving) was hardly channeling Mario Andretti here. Nonetheless, we knew we got nabbed when the flashbulb went off as our car passed the hidden camera. Anyone who has been in this situation in Italy, France, or Germany knows that sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach.

The tickets I can understand. They were excessive, but there’s really no way to fight them. We were assessed fines of about £60 per ticket, which we paid. (Friends who have received photo-enforced speeding tickets on trips to Italy have ignored the charges when they returned home to the U.S. and apparently been O.K. But I wouldn’t advise that.) We ponied up the $200 and figured we learned a costly lesson.

Hidden fees and surcharges

I didn’t anticipate I’d be hit with more fees weeks later from Europcar. The company charged my credit card twice (without my knowledge, mind you) for what they later told me were “administrative fees” related to the tickets, namely the amount they charge for passing our contact details on to the local authorities.

The amount: a staggering $50 PER TICKET.

Now, I know this is common practice for rental car companies—they maintain that this charge covers the cost of transferring your data to the relevant local authorities. But from a consumer’s standpoint, it helps to be informed of the rules and regulations before you rent, just so you’re aware of the possible tack-ons.

Make sure the amount of the surcharge is clearly stated in the terms and conditions of your agreement. And watch your credit card statements closely in the months after your rental to see if any charges show up without your knowing about it (as it did in my case).

For those who want to learn more about these rental car fees, here’s an excellent article on MSNBC’s website. Educate yourself, or you might find yourself in the same situation I’m in, paying three times the cost of your rental car in profligate surcharges.

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