Locanda Casa Querini
Castello 4388 - Campo San Zaninovo
Venice, Italy

Doubles: €93-197

Venice can be an tricky place to find reasonable accommodations. You dream of a room facing a canal, or at least something with a nice view. And, that will cost you.

Thankfully, there are several hotels in our hotel guide to Venice where rooms with a view can be had at reasonable rates. Take, for instance, the lovely Locanda Casa Querini, where half of the 11 rooms look out onto the surprisingly tranquil Santo Giovanni Novo square.

Benefiting from its prime location minutes from San Marco square, Querini’s rooms sparkle with bright, blue tones. After our visit here, we were screaming, “Love the bedspreads, the curtains, the carpeting! Love all of it!”

Read our full review of the Casa Querini.

Also see: Our full list of recommended budget hotels in Venice.

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If you can pull your gaze from the winding canals and floating gondolas, you’ll find there’s plenty of art to see in Venice. Many of the Italian masters, including Titian, Tintoretto, and Giorgione, have artwork on display around the city.

While the biggest museums, such as the Gallerie dell’Accademia and the Ca’ d’Oro charge anywhere from €2.50 to €6.50 for admission, Venetian churches (many of which still hold daily mass) are treasure troves of free art.

Art history at the Chiesa di San Moise

The Chiesa di San Moise, in Venice’s San Marco neighborhood, is a particularly worthwhile example. Built in the 8th-Century, this church has had enough time to acquire extravagant baroque touches-and it shows! Highlights include:

• Facade: Outside, covering the facade, you’ll find a line-up of worthy cherubs and statues.
• Statues: Inside, San Moise is decked out with busts of Italian aristocrats, Tintoretto’s “La Lavanda dei Piedi,” and bronze angels.
• Alter: A depiction of Moses on Mount Sinai graces the altar.
• Organ: An 18th century-organ is occasionally opened for public recitals.

Not bad for one church!

Visiting the church

The Chiesa di San Moise is open daily from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. The church is reachable by vaporetto stop San Marco del Giglio (Line 1). Check out the official site for more info. 

Also see: Our recommended budget hotels in Venice.

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As befits a city of canals, Venice has a variety of cruising aptitudes. While a trip aboard a traditional Venetian gondola will empty your wallet faster than you can say, “Ciao bello!”, other watercrafts cost much less. Here, how to find the Cheapo ways to float your boat!

For everyday exploring:

A 60-minute or 12-hour tour-

Water buses (vaporetti in Italian) are the cheapest and most traditional mode of transportation in Venice. Locals cruise to and from work and home using the vaporetti’s extensive reach. If you plan on covering a lot of ground and seeing many attractions in a short period of time, consider hopping on this boat. Tickets are relatively cheap. A 60-minute ticket, that allows you to travel on most lines, costs €6.50. A 12-hour card, with unlimited travel, is €14. Visit the ACTV’s web site (Venice’s transportation authority) for more info.

Three days on a discount-

The ACTV offers a number of discounts for carriers of the Venice Card. The ACTV’s Youth Card (for ages 14 to 29), costs €18 and is good for three days of unlimited vaporetti travel. Check out the Venice Card web site for more information.

A Venetian dream on a budget:

We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again: gondolas are as pricey as they are romantic. They’re not so much a means of transportation as an expensive, if lovely, tour of the city’s most charming views. Expect to pay upwards of €80 for a 45-minute ride. 

So what’s a Cheapo to do? Step into one of the gondola ferries, or “traghetti,” as they are called in Venice, the bare-bones alternative to the lavish gondola ride. Thankfully, the experience is no less authentic; for a mere €.50, you’ll sail along with the locals in a thin, canoe-shaped boat. Look for the yellow “traghetto” signs that mark docking and sailing off points.

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Venice, city of gondolas and canals, can get expensive. Thankfully, however, it need not break your budget. Here are five free things to do in Venice: 

Hang out in Piazza San Marco.

While we don’t recommend Cheapos splurge for the touristy restaurants and cafés lining San Marco’s square, we do think that parking yourself just outside the Basilica to people-watch is one of the best free things to do in Venice. Head inside to the Basilica (open from March to October, Monday through Friday from 9:45 a.m. to 4:45 p.m. and on Sundays from 2-4:45 p.m.; from April to September, Monday through Friday from 9:45 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sundays from 2-5 p.m.), and take in 10th-Century relics for just €1.50. Snap a few photos. Just don’t feed the pigeons. These days, that pasttime is off-limits.  

Cross the Ponte di Rialto.

The Rialto Bridge could be the most famous bridge in Italy (we hear you grumbling, Florence!). It also affords one of the best canal views in the city, and is a perfect starting point for travelers ready to lose themselves in Venice. Spend some time wandering through the well-known Rialto Market—which is closeby—and where fishmongers, and fruit and vegetable dealers convene daily (from early morning until nearly 11 p.m.). Browse the wares for free or haggle with a seller.

Take in a free concert.

Unfortunately, in Venice, free concerts and expositions are not widely promoted. Check for flyers in cafes and bars or look for posters hanging outside churches and museums. During culture week in May, many museums also host free events and exhibits.  For free concert listings in Italian, visit the “Music in Venice” site.

Or, check out the official site for Venice’s Suona festival (scheduled for July 6th this year), a day-long city-wide event, coinciding with the European Fete de la Musique, in which all of Venice’s squares host free concerts. Also, try the tourist center next to St. Mark’s Square, where they often have “what’s on” flyers and pamphlets.

Go to church.

Venice is packed with churches and many of them are free and open to the public daily. After you’ve seen the majestic San Marco’s Basilica, check out two of our other favorites: Santa Maria della Salute, a gorgeous, picturesque church dedicated to the Madonna, which frequently hosts free concerts, especially during the months of January and February. Next, visit the 13th-Century Gothic church of S.S. Giovanni e Paolo. Here, make sure you check out Paolo Veronese’s ceiling frescoes.

Get lost!

Hey, in Venice it’s cheap—and easy!—to get lost. Wander the cobblestone streets, absent of motorized vehicles, and traverse bridges, meander the canals, and get a real sense for the city’s 15th-Century layout. Losing yourself in the architecture of the city is one of the best ways to see the real Venice and to experience it as it was meant for travelers. In any case, try as you might, you won’t be able to avoid getting lost during your trip to Venice. You might as well make it “part of the plan.”

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Albergo Guerrato, pension
Calle drio la Scimia 240/a
San Polo, Venice
Doubles € 100-140 

We first fell in love with Albergo Guerrato because of its location. Just a short walk from the Rialto Bridge, it holds a coveted place in the lovely San Polo area of Venice.

But, then there was the ambiance. The Guerrato is an ex-convent, whose beginnings date to the 1200s.  Today, the owners seem to be decorating decidedly less ‘convent’ than ‘Dolce & Gabbana atelier’ —as our EC reviewer, Annie Shapero, said of her last visit.

Rooms are fit for kings, queens, and anyone with a taste for antiques. Most rooms have oriental rugs, lavish furnishings, and beautifully carved windows. When you’ve tired of the indoor ambiance, step outside where the hipster nightlife surrounding Guerrato will keep you satiated.

Read the complete review or see all budget hotel picks in Venice.

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Six recent stories that made us smile and chased away the rain:

1) 5 ways to get even cheaper in Europe

Christopher Cook, of noambit.com, posts this week in Vagabondish about “5 simple ways to beat your travel budget.” His tips are solid and speak to every Cheapo in Europe. In short: Eat cheaply, walk, be flexible with dates, consider more budget-friendly destinations, and think twice before paying for a museum. Nice tips, Chris!

2) 33-cent beers in Vietnam

We don’t normally cover destinations outside of Europe, but we’re following former EuroCheapo staffer TJ DiChristopher as he showcases his skills in Saigon, his new hometown. Today, TJ shares five ways he’s keeping it cheap in Saigon, from budget beer to iced green tea and pirated movies.

3) Italian tourists in Venice

Venice is really crowded right now. According to About.com’s James Martin who was in the canaled city last Saturday, Venice’s narrow streets are packed to overflowing. But with whom? Italians, who were celebrating the May Day weekend (a national holiday). Martin heard mostly the native language being spoken, and hardly any English. Just watch which boat you get on, James!

4) Hungry pigeons in St. Mark’s Square?

Speaking of Venice, Elisabetta Povoledo reported yesterday in the International Herald Tribune that the city has outlawed pigeon feeding in St. Mark’s Square. It turns out that the practice has been banned in the rest of the city for the past 11 years (who knew?), but had been allowed in St. Mark’s because of its iconic, photogenic role in the city’s history (and tourism trade). The result: Protesting birdseed sellers and a switch to feeding the birds potato chips. (We’ve heard that the switch hasn’t Ruffled any feathers…)

5) Daria Werbovy!

Thanks to Holly for correctly identifying the model in the new H&M ad across the street from our office. We couldn’t identify her when she was just a forehead… and, it now turns out, for good reason! Nice job, Holly. We’re sending out your copy today of the Rough Guide to Europe on a Budget.

6) American destinations from Smithsonian

Again, we don’t typically cover non-European locales, but we are loving this month’s (May 2008) issue of Smithsonian Magazine. The mag’s theme is “Destination America”. To croak—er name—a few stories: short takes on The Frog Festival in Rayne, Louisiana, the Chicago blues fest, and a fabulous feature on Acadia Country.  

Have a great weekend, Cheapos.

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Venice may be known for its opera house and Vivaldi concerts, but it isn’t celebrated for its nightlife. This can present problems for travelers looking, well, to do something at night. This problem also dogs single travelers in Venice, who may not find any special romantic epiphany wandering the canals alone after dinner. (And we won’t even go into the nightlife issues faced by single hotel reviewers, staying in the town in the dead of winter…)

Alas, the canalled city does offer a range of nightlife options. Here’s our quick guide:

1. Have a drink with the locals

Head to Campo Santa Margherita in Dursoduro to hang out with the locals in the small cafes, bars, and lounges lining the square. Don’t be intimidated by the clusters of real Venetians. Grab a drink. Recommended:

Cafe Blue (Dursoduro 3778), serves drinks and live music until 2 AM. The hopping bar is a favorite with locals and tourists alike, and is located next to the equally enticing Cafe Noir.

Il Caffe, is known as “Caffe Rosso” because of its red interior.  The bar welcomes all ages, features live music, and is regarded as a Venice “classic.” Dursoduro 2963, on the Campo.

Orange, also on the Campo Santa Margherita, is a hip joint that pours cocktails to an eager, cosmo-crowd. Calling itself a restaurant and “champagne lounge,” the bar features décor done up entirely in — you guessed it, orange!

2. Sip a cocktail in a schmancy lounge

Centrale Restaurant Lounge, located steps from San Marco square, is a swanky restaurant and lounge. Make no mistake: This place isn’t cheap at all (dinner for two prix fixe, €150!), but you can lounge about and sip your cocktail slowly. Offering themed nights and a gay night. Open from 7 PM -2 AM. Piscina Frezzeria n°1659/b.

3. Hit the club?

Dance clubs are not numerous in Venice proper. In fact, we couldn’t find any that are open right now. Your best bet is to ask at your hotel if Casanova, the disco (and “internet point”) located near the train station is still in open!

Or you could act like a local and head to Maestre, Venice’s neighboring mainland city, where several clubs rage until dawn. Buses and trains run through the night from the Venice’s termini station. Here’s a partial list of clubs in Mestre.

During the summer months, clubbers head to Jesolo, the resort on Venice’s Lido island, to dance ’til dawn on the beach and in the discos. More Jesolo information.

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Photo by seadipper

You’re strolling around Venice when suddenly it strikes: an insatiable craving for Mélange mit Schlagobers. Where did this hankering for the whipped, caffeinated Austrian delight come from? Who knows? In any case, you need to get yourself to Vienna pronto.

Taking the night train from Venice to Vienna is an old Cheapo trick. Why does it make sense?

For one, hotel rates in Venice are notoriously inflated, from €100 to €200 per night, with a few one-star pensions and hostels running cheaper. In comparison, a 2nd class overnight ticket between Venice and Vienna costs about €75. If you have a Eurail pass, traveling on the Allegro line can be even cheaper. Deals are also sometimes offered on the route—over one Easter weekend not long ago, we scored a €45 ticket.

Once you’re in Vienna, there are more affordable hotels to choose between. You’ll pay between €45 and €75 for a cheap room. A more upscale room can be had for between €75 and €149, leaving you enough money to go on a ravenous strüdel binge. What happens in Vienna, stays in Vienna, after all.

SkyEurope flies between Venice and Vienna for even less. This summer they’re offering €.01 fares, which swell to €19 once taxes are taken into consideration. Cheap, no question, but traveling by night train allows you to consolidate your lodging and transportation costs and eliminate time- and euro-sucking trips to the airport.

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Photograph by Mr Luke Harby

Do as the Venetians do and start the night out with a baccari tour, stopping at several traditional wine bars to savor a glass of vino bianco and sample some amazing cicchetti. The baccari is an Italian interpretation of the English pub crawl.

As we’ve pointed out in the past, cicchetti is the term for Venetian bar-snacks. They’re similar to Spanish tapas. Do Spade, a baccara that dates back to the 15th century, offers an unparalled cicchetti selection, ranging from savory fried seafare to a spicy picante panini.

Cantina Do Spade is located at S. Polo 860, Calle Do Spade. Telephone: 041-521-05-74

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photograph courtesy of niachan

The islands surrounding Venice are a godsend for travelers wanting to veer off the well-beaten Venetian path. Pack a picnic basket lunch and head over to the nearly deserted lagoon island of Torcello to relive Katharine Hepburn’s romantic picnic in the 1955 movie Summertime.

You’ll get lost in Torcello’s tranquil haven of enchanting rose gardens and ancient vineyards. Hemingway fell in love with the place and is even rumored to have written one of his novels on the island.

No Torcello jaunt is complete without a visit to the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, a stunning Romanesque church. The Cattedrale’s colorful 12th-century Byzantine mosaics are particularly amazing.

To get to Torcello, take the 12 or T vaporetto.

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