Berlin: Memorials on and off the beaten path

Wednesday, March 10th, 2010
The famous Holocaust Memorial in Berlin. Photo by dalbera.

The famous Holocaust Memorial in Berlin. Photo by dalbera.

By Susan Buzzelli—

Between World War II and the Cold War, Berlin has a lot to remember. No wonder dozens of memorials and monuments grace the city. You could spend days tracking down every one of these free-to-see reminders dedicated to bygone events. (The city’s official list of “Denkmäler,” which include buildings, cemeteries, and other locations of historic note, is 941 pages long!)

Here’s a guide to our favorite memorials, including those that are on the well-beaten tourist path and those that are all-too-often overlooked by visitors.

1. Behren Strasse (U/S-bahn: Reichstag or Potsdamer Platz) is the wide avenue that runs alongside the Tiergarten park and connects Unter den Linden to Potsdamer Platz. Behrn Strasse is home to the U.S. Embassy, as well as two World War II monuments.

On the beaten path…

The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe (Ebert Str. & Behren Str.), which is commonly known as the Holocaust Memorial, is a maze of steel gray “stele”, tomb-like slabs, that covers an entire block. Don’t forget to visit the subterranean documentation center for gripping, sobering exhibits about the victims of the Holocaust.

Off the beaten path…

Standing on the edge of the Tiergarten Park (on Ebert Str., between Behren Str. & Hannah-Arendt Str.), the Memorial for Gays Persecuted by Nazis is only a short stroll away from the Holocaust Memorial. Peek through the small “window” on the side of the 13-foot-tall concrete block to see a black and white film that depicts two men kissing. “A simple kiss could cause trouble,” reads the accompanying plaque.

2. Grosse Hamburger Strasse is a long, elegant avenue steps from Hackescher Markt. The street was once a center of Jewish life. It hosted one of the earliest Jewish cemeteries, as well as a home for seniors (marked with a plaque) and a school for boys (now the heavily-fortified Jüdische Oberschule, a school for children of all faiths). Today, the entire street is an open-air memorial to the Mitte’s once-vibrant Jewish community.

On the beaten path…

Will Lambert designed a bronze statue dedicated to the Jewish victims of fascism in 1957. Standing on the site of the long-destroyed Jewish cemetery, on the spot were Jews were deported to concentration camps, the somber memorial depicts a cluster of women and children awaiting their tragic fates.

Off the beaten path…

Installed in 1990 by the French artist Christian Boltanski, the Missing House (once at 15/16 Grosse Hamburger Str.) pays poignant tribute to one of the city’s many voids—in this case, a house that was never rebuilt after its 1945 destruction by Allied bombs. Twelve black-and-white plaques bearing the names, birth and death dates, and occupation of the building’s final residents adorn the facing walls of the two neighboring buildings. It’s a subtle, easy-to-miss tribute.

Continue north on Grosse Hamburger Strasse to reach the quiet, residential square of Koppenplatz. Standing on the northern side is a bronze statue of a table and two chairs, one of which is tipped over onto its back. The Memorial to the Deserted Room, by Karl Biedermann, pays tribute to the many Jews who were forced from their homes. It was installed in 1991.

3. Treptower Park (S-bahn: Treptower Park or Plänterwald) is an expansive stretch of green that runs alongside the Spree river in eastern Berlin. Big with picnickers, dog-walkers, and even boaters, the park is lined with gorgeous “Jugendstil” mansions and apartment buildings that reflect its history as a well-to-do district. It bears two intriguing traces of East Berlin architecture.

On the beaten path…

Occupying a massive swath of green, the gargantuan Soviet Memorial was built by the Soviet Union shortly after World War II to honor the Soviet soldiers who died in the battle for Berlin (1945-1949). Massive marble memorial plaques are overshadowed by the memorial’s focal point–a statue of a Soviet soldier, cradling a German child in his arms.

Off the beaten path…

Schlesischer Busch, a small, scrubby park north of Treptower Park, on the Treptow-Kreuzberg border (Puschkinallee), is home to a former Wachturm (watchtower) that’s been transformed into a small art gallery. Other than the concrete, graffiti-marred tower, there are no longer any traces here of the Berlin Wall that divided the city.

Tell us: Have you been to any of these memorials? Do you have another favorite monument or memorial that you’d like to add to our list? Tell us about it in the comments section.

Popularity: 2% [?]

Rome: A magical walking tour of optical illusions

Friday, December 11th, 2009

By Samantha Collins in Rome—

Things in Italy’s capital city are not always what they seem…

Here’s a fun sightseeing walk around Rome’s center that will illustrate the city’s penchant for illusions!  This guided walk takes you around the center, from Mount Testaccio, over the Aventine Hill, past the “Mouth of Truth,” and then along the banks of the Tiber to Palazzo Spada.

To start, take the Metro B Line or the 716 or 30 bus to Piramide and allow yourself an unhurried couple of hours.

monte_testaccio2Mount Testaccio – Rural Idyll or a Load of Old Rubbish?

Get to Mount Testaccio by walking behind Rome’s Pyramid and following Via Caio Cestio along the Protestant Cemetery walls. (It’s worth a peek inside as it contains the graves of Shelley and Keats amongst its illustrious residents.)

At the end of the street you arrive at the tree-covered hillside of Mount Testacccio. Look closely and you will see that instead of being filled with earth, it is actually made of around 50 million broken pottery jugs used to bring olive oil from Spain and Africa in 140-250 A.D. and subsequently discarded into a heap. Calculations suggest that this was equivalent to an annual consumption at that time of 22 litres of olive oil per person.

Through the Keyhole

through-the-keyhole1From Mount Testaccio, follow Via Galvani until it crosses busy Via Marmorata, after which you can start the gentle climb up the Aventine Hill by taking Via Pollione and then keep bearing left.

This quiet residential area enjoys panoramic views of Rome with many viewpoints including the Orange Tree Garden. On arrival at Piazza di San Alessio head towards the dark wooden door set into the white stone wall on your left (see photo), place your eye to the keyhole and you will see…. No, sorry, you need to go and look for yourself.

Truth or Dare? Try your hand at the Mouth of Truth

Continue along Via Sabina descending down to Circo Massimo. Head left towards Piazza della Veritá and the Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin with its distinctive bell tower.

This is home of Rome’s most famous manhole cover, the Mouth of Truth, immortalised by Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday.” But beware: If you a person of a less-than-honest character and you place your hand inside the mouth, you are at risk of having it bitten off.

palazzo-spada1Palazzo Spada: A Question of Size…

Exit the church, cross the road past the round Temple of Hércules and climb the steps to the river. Turn right and follow the pleasant path along the Tiber turning at Via Giulia to reach Palazzo Spada Art Gallery in Piazza Capo di Ferro.

The Palazzo Spada is home to the private art collection of the Spada Brothers, as well as a clever illusionary corridor that appears to be three times longer than it is, due to some perspective trickery and a shrunken statue. Tip: You can see the corridor without paying the €5 fee to enter the gallery.

And finally… the Dome that does not exist

There is just one more treasure left to see on your illusions shopping list during your stay in Rome. Pop into the elegant St. Iganzio di Loyola Church, between Via del Corso and the Pantheon in the heart of Rome’s historic center, and then look up.

Then look again. The wonderfully ornate dome that you see above you is actually a clever optical illusion painted on a completely flat ceiling. The things these Romans did when the budget was a little tight!

About the author: Samantha Collins is a freelance travel writer and editor, who has lived in Rome for the past two years.  She is originally from Manchester in the UK.  Read all about her adventures by visiting her blog, www.samanthacollinsrome.blogspot.com.

Popularity: 5% [?]

Moving to Madrid, Part II: Five Things that Surprised Me

Tuesday, November 10th, 2009
Madrid's El Retiro Park will make you want to move. Photo by Stephanie Corral.

Madrid's sumptuous El Retiro Park. Photo by Stephanie Corral.

By Stephanie Corral in Madrid—

(Editor’s note: Stephanie recently moved to Madrid from Los Angeles. EuroCheapo checked in with her before the big move and is now following up to hear about her experience.)

I was worried I wouldn’t like Madrid. Or even sillier still, I was worried that Madrid wouldn’t like me. But as it turns out, we are a perfect match.

It’s hard to believe I’ve only been living here for a month because I feel right at home. Although my arrival was marred by rain and exhaustion, after a couple of days (and many siestas), I was riding the metro alone, saying “vale” and meeting friends for tapas in Sol.

Perhaps the transition into Spanish life was easy because before the big move, I had done enough research to know what to expect (chain smokers, weird closing hours, slow service at restaurants). But there are things that can only be discovered by living here.

Madrid never ceases to surprise me, but here are five things about this city that are pretty amazing:

1. The tap water.

The tap water is good enough to drink here. While the tap water back in Los Angeles is also safe to drink, it has that “tap water” taste, which is why I never drank the stuff. I was skeptical about drinking from the tap at first so it took a couple of days of cautious sipping before I became a full-fledged tap water drinker.

And you know what? It tastes fantastic. Madrilenos are very proud of their tap water, which comes from the city’s neighboring mountains. Now I fill up my water bottle with what is probably the best tap water in Spain, if not in Europe.

2. Cheap food.

I love that I can go out with my friends for tapas and a drink at places like 100 Montaditos or El Mercado de San Miguel with less than €10 in my pocket. Tax is included in the bill and tipping isn’t a must like it is back home.

TIP: If you’re in the mood for brunch, go to VIPS (pronounced “VEEPS”), a popular chain in Madrid. For €3.75, you can have pancakes, eggs, bacon and café con leche).

3. The Metro.

I’m just going to say it: I am in love with Metro Madrid. The first time I rode the metro, my roommate laughed at my bright-eyed fascination. I explained to her that the metro system in LA is a joke. The metro in Madrid is super efficient, organized, and affordable. If you miss the train, you can catch the next one in four minutes, so there’s no reason to kick yourself over hitting the snooze button.

4. A walking city.

I’m amazed at how well I can get around this city on foot when I don’t feel like taking the metro. I spent my first week walking everywhere, constantly feeling like I had walked into a postcard at every corner. I had to buy new walking shoes within a week of moving here. But now that it’s getting much colder, I join everyone else underground.

5. Public Libraries.

When I first arrived in Madrid, my apartment didn’t have internet access. I lugged my laptop to various WiFi cafés, but that wasn’t always practical. A trip to my nearest biblioteca publica (public library) revealed that with a library card, I could sign up for free internet access for an hour on the library’s computers. I checked my email, read the news and caught up on my blog reading in a clean and quiet place.

To get a library card, all you need is a passport or NIE (Numero de Identificacion de Extranjero). To find the nearest library, visit the library directory on the Comunidad de Madrid website.

One more surprise: El Retiro Park on a weekday

I should also add that if you’re ever in Madrid and are craving some peace and quiet, go to El Retiro park during a weekday afternoon. Sit on the steps of the Crystal Palace and feed the ducks and black swans. A fair warning: It will be enough to make you consider moving here.

About the author: Stephanie Corral is a freelance writer from Los Angeles living in Madrid, where she works as an English teacher.

Popularity: 6% [?]

Madrid: Free tours, bikes, museums, and food!

Thursday, September 3rd, 2009
Rent a bike for free in Madrid. Photo by sindandune.

Rent a bike for free in Madrid. Photo by sindandune.

By Cynthia Kane in Madrid–

Looking for things to do in Madrid that won’t put a hole in your wallet? If so, check out the following list of activities you can do for absolutely free!

Free Madrid walking tours

If you’ve just arrived in Madrid (or even if you’ve been here for a while but haven’t yet explored the city), take one of the two free Madrid walking tours offered daily at 11 AM and 3 PM. The tours are 3.5 hours long, and you’ll learn the history of the city, see the most popular sights, and uncover hidden treasures.

Note: Although the tour itself is free, tips are very much appreciated. For more information, visit the tour’s website.

Free bicycle rental

If you’re in the mood for some exercise or just want to take a nice stroll around town, head over to Juan Carlos I park to pick up a free bicycle. Yes, we said free! How does it work? Simply register for an electronic card at the tent next to the park’s first parking lot. And it gets better: The card offers you unlimited bike access for an entire year.

Parque Juan Carlos I, Avenida Manuel Azaña, Avenida Logroño, Via de Dublin s/n (Metro: Campo de las Naciones). Bike rental hours: Mon-Fri 10 AM-1 PM, 4:30-7:30 PM. Sat, Sun, and holidays: 9:30 AM – 7:30 PM.

Free museums

Ready for a day of art but not for a hefty admission charge? Then take advantage of these free times at the city’s most popular museums:

Head over to the Museo del Prado (Paseo del Prado Metro: Banco de Espana) on Tuesday- Saturday from 6 PM – 8 PM or Sunday from 5 PM – 8 PM for free entrance.

If Dali and Picasso are more your style, then head to the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia on Calle Santa Isabel, 52 (Metro: Atocha) on Saturdays for free admission from 10 AM – 2 PM.

For museums that are always free, check out the following:

CaixaForum. Paseo Prado, 36 (Metro: Atocha) Open daily 10 AM – 8 PM.

La Casa Encendida. Ronda de Valencia, 2 (Metro: Embajadores) Open daily 10 AM – 10 PM.

Museo Municipal de Arte Contemporanea. Calle Conde Duque, 9 (Metro: Noviciado). Open Tuesday – Saturday 10 AM – 2 PM, 5:30-9 PM, Sunday 10:30 AM – 2:30 PM.

Templo de Debod. Montana del Principe Pio (Metro: Plaza de España). Open Tuesday – Friday 10 AM – 2 PM, Saturday, Sunday 10 AM – 2 PM.

Free food!

Free food may sound too good to be true, but here in Madrid, if you order a drink, then olives, potato chips, or tasty tapas will be on their way! Some suggestions for great free food:

El Tigre. Calle Infantas, 30 (Metro: Gran Via)

Entretapas y Vinos. Calle Fuencarral, 93 (Metro: Tribunal)

La Bardemcilla. Calle de Augusto Figueroa, 47 (Metro: Chueca)

About the author: Cynthia Kane is the editor of MAPMagazine.com, a Madrid travel e-zine, written by native English-speaking Madrid experts.

Popularity: 9% [?]

London: Website helps you navigate the city’s confusing streets

Friday, June 26th, 2009
Consult Walkit.com for a route along Regents Canal. Photo: Ed.ward

Consult Walkit.com for a route along Regents Canal. Photo: Ed.ward

By Justin Bergman in London—

As any visitor to London (and probably more than a few residents) can attest, getting around the city on foot can be maddeningly confusing. Because London grew over the centuries by swallowing up neighboring villages and towns, there’s little rhyme or reason to its layout. Hence the existence of mews, the charming narrow alleys where wealthy Londoners once had their stables. And even narrower passageways like the one behind Whitechapel Gallery, where Jack the Ripper is believed to have lived.

And roundabouts. Don’t even get me started on roundabouts. My partner and I had a couple of hairy experiences driving through those death traps this past weekend.

London: Step by Step

Fortunately, there’s a new website called Walkit.com that aims to help directionally challenged people like myself find their way around London, without the use of an “A to Z Guide.” (Although this detailed street map guide is always handy to have as a backup, should you really get lost.)

Walkit.com map of Central London

A 200-calorie walk. (Click to enlarge.)

Launched by environmentalist and walking advocate Jamie Wallace three years ago, Walkit maps out any route you’d like to take by foot in 14 different British cities. All you do is enter your starting point and desired destination, and the site will give you directions for the quickest walking trip between the two points, along with the distance, the time it should take you, the calories you’ll burn, and the carbon dioxide emissions you would have contributed to the environment had you taken the tube, car, or bus. It even tells you how many steps you’ll take (seriously).

There are also two alternate routes you can map—a “less busy” walk avoiding major roads and a “low pollution” walk that takes you along parks and through quiet neighborhoods.

The Test Drive… er, Walk

Naturally, I wanted to try the site out. I conducted two tests from my house on a tiny street in East London that’s probably a third of a block long and dead-ends on a park. I figure if the program can find my street, that’s a reasonably good start. (It did.)

For the first test, I tried a short walk to a restaurant called the Albion near my house. Although it’s probably only five minutes away, I spent 15 minutes looking for it the other night. (Tip: Know the exact address you’re looking for, right down to the postal code and the cross street. You’ll need these in case there are multiple streets in London with the same name as the one you want).

The site’s instructions were very clear—I was told how many meters to walk before each turn and when I’d pass an identifiable landmark (like a Pizza Express). But I noticed on the map that there appeared to be a shorter route along a side road called Holywell Lane. A flaw! I couldn’t wait to prove the site wrong.

When I got to Holywell Lane, though, I found it blocked off for construction work until the end of 2009. I was wrong… and duly impressed.

The Low-Pollution Route

For the next test, I wanted to see what a “low pollution” walk was all about. So I randomly picked a destination near Victoria Park in northeast London to see if the site would route me near or through the park. Not only did it do that, it also sent me on a very enjoyable, mile-long walk along leafy Regents Canal, via a hard-to-spot set of stairs from a main street.

The only pollution I encountered? Two lawnmowers and a guy burning weeds in his back yard. (Isn’t that how the Great Fire of London started?)

There’s something to note about the “low-pollution” routes, though. You may miss some of the city’s biggest sights (such as Piccadilly Circus) if you choose to avoid congested areas. Same goes for the quickest routes. Walkit doesn’t create routes specifically geared to tourist attractions, but there are plenty of free and inexpensive guided tours for that. (Check out our blog post on five free London walking tours.)

Wallace says Walkit is adding about one new city a month to the site, with Coventry and Sunderland next. We want to see this great resource expand to cities across Europe, too.

About the author: Justin Bergman is a freelance writer whose work has appeared in The New York Times and Monocle magazine. He’s also previously worked for Budget Travel magazine and the Associated Press. Favorite trip he’s taken–two and a half weeks in southern Peru, climbing mountains and outrunning overly aggressive llamas.

Popularity: 10% [?]

Rome free afternoon: Our four favorite parks in Rome

Friday, April 24th, 2009
A peaceful scene in the Villa Borghese. Photos by Sav D'Souza.

A peaceful scene in the Villa Borghese. Photos by Sav D'Souza.

By Sav D’Souza in Rome—

Rome, like most European destinations, has some delightful parks. Whether you plan to relax after a day on the town, or spend a free afternoon strolling through gardens, sitting by a lake, or picnicking on a park bench,  here are my top parco picks for Rome.

Villa Doria Pamphilj
Via San Pancrazio & Via Aurelia Antica in Monteverde
(Various buses are available, Tram 8, or walk up from Trastevere)

Enter through San Pancrazio Gate and into Rome’s largest landscaped—and public—park, the Villa Doria Pamphilj. Named after two noble Italian families, this marvel sits West of the Tiber and just South of Vatican City in residential Monteverde.

At the park’s center is the Villa Vecchia, here since the 1600s. The park itself offers a host of lovely gardens, intricate statues, a grotto, and fountains. A curvy bridge links up the gardens making this an especially popular destination for jogging and walking dogs.

Napoleon's bust in the Villa Borghese.

Napoleon's bust in the Villa Borghese.

Villa Borghese
Via Veneto
(Metro line A to Flaminio)

A sprawling area of land full of everything from quiet, lush green spaces to famous statues and fountains, the Villa Borghese is perhaps Rome’s most well-known park.  The oasis, completed around 1620, is an ideal venue for taking in some rays.

When you’re done sun bathing, you must check out the Borghese Gallery, considered one of the world’s top private art collections. (Keep in mind you need to reserve a ticket before you gallery-gaze. Adult tickets, to the museum and gallery, are €13.50 plus a €2 booking fee. EU citizens, children, and seniors receive a discount.)

Tip: Check out the carriage racing, every May at the Piazza di Siena.

Gianicolo Park
Trastevere (Walk up Via Garibaldi)

The Gianicolo, in picturesque Trastevere, is at the top of Janiculum Hill and offers unbeatable panoramic views of Rome’s sprawl. It’s a bit of a trek up, but if you can make it, pleasant scenery and unique photo-ops await you. Pack a picnic and make a day of it. For more info, grab a map at the Rome Tourism Office. The walk up to Janiculum Hill and its accompanying park are also clearly marked on most any tourist map of Rome.

Pincio Gardens
Piazzale Napoleone I and Viale dell’Obelisco
(Metro line A to Flaminio)

The Pincio gardens overlook the neoclassical Piazza del Popolo. Although Pincio is slightly wild and unkempt, I still love it for its vivid colors, towering trees, and foliage-filled gardens.  The Pincio remains a local and tourist favorite for sunset watching and afternoon reading—and is considered one of the prettiest places in the Eternal City.

Do you have a favorite park in Rome? Or, know of a secret garden somewhere off the beaten path? Share it in the comment section below.

About the author: Sav D’Souza is a freelance journalist currently based in Rome. He has worked as a journalist in Hawaii, Prague, and London and contributed features to the Guardian, Daily Telegraph, SA Sports Illustrated, Prague Post and CNBC Europe. He is a demon pool player, enjoys a round of golf, playing poker, and the occasional gin and tonic.

Popularity: 8% [?]

Paris Walking Tour: Bridging the Seine

Monday, April 20th, 2009
Pont Neuf, Paris's oldest bridge. Photos by Liz Webber.

The Pont Neuf, Paris's oldest bridge. Photos by Liz Webber.

By Liz Webber in Paris—

When the French “faire le pont,” they’re not talking about building bridges. Rather, they’re taking an extra day off work to make a long weekend when there’s a bank holiday midweek.

Regardless, there’s quite a bit to be said for the real bridges (”ponts“) in Paris. Join us, as we stroll from the Ile St. Louis to the Eiffel Tower, crossing over some of the city’s best bridges.

A river runs under it

bicycle

Bicycle man

We start at the Pont Sully (built 1876), at the very eastern edge of the Ile St. Louis. Down below on the banks, this section of the isle is an ideal location for sunbathers on a clear day. After gazing out to the east of Paris, take a stroll westward through what has become one of the city’s most fashionable addresses.

The Pont St. Louis (completed 1970) is a tiny bridge connecting the Ile St. Louis with the Ile de la Cité. It sits in the shadow of Notre Dame, across the street from one of the many places selling the famous Berthillon ice cream (though not the original, at 31 rue St. Louis en Ile). This bridge is prime real estate for musicians and other street performers. On a recent afternoon, a crazy French clown and his amazing trick bicycle entertained a crowd of a few dozen, while a rock band was only too glad to take over once the clown’s show finished.

Everything old is new again

Continuing west off the Ile de la Cité, the next major bridge is the Pont Neuf. Despite it’s name, it’s actually the oldest bridge in Paris, completed in 1607. Just north of the bridge is the Samaritaine department store, closed since 2005 for safety-related renovations. The tip of the island to the west of the Pont Neuf is popular with picnickers. Although alcohol is officially ”interdit,” gendarmes tend to look the other way if you pour your beverage into cups and hide the bottle.

picnic

Looking towards the Pont des Arts

No cars allowed

Following the Seine west, the next bridge we encounter is the Pont des Arts (completed 1984), an iconic footbridge anchored by the Louvre on one side and the Institut de France on the other. Taking a cue from the bridge’s name, many artists and craftsmen set up shop here to display their creations.

A little ways down is another pedestrian bridge, today called the Passerelle Léopold Sédar Senghor after the first president of Senegal and the first African to be a part of the Academie française. Completed in its latest incarnation in 1999, this bridge arcs right down to the edge of the Seine.

Bridging the gap

The Paris city hall website calls the Pont Alexandre III “Paris’s most elegant bridge.” It can be a little hard to appreciate the fine sculpture work, however, with all the cars and buses roaring up from the Avenue de Maréchal Galliéni. The bridge was built between 1896 and 1900.

Between the Pont Alexandre III and the Eiffel Tower there is not much to see aside from the Passerelle Debilly, a pedestrian bridge built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Still, a walk along the southern bank of the Seine is quite pleasant, as it’s mostly a tree-lined strip of a park.

eiffeltower

La Tour Eiffel

Get over it

We have finally reached the Pont d’Iéna (completed 1814), which was originally conceived to commemorate Napoleon’s 1806 victory in the battle of Jena. The bridge is an excellent spot for taking photos of the Eiffel Tower. Across the river, the steps of the Palais de Chaillot are probably the best place to watch the tower’s evening light show that takes place every hour from sunset to 1 AM (2 AM in summer).

Your favorite bridge?

Do you have a favorite bridge in Paris? How about a favorite spot along the Seine? Tell us in the comments section below.

 

About the author: Liz Webber is a freelance journalist living and working in Paris. She has previously worked for the International Herald Tribune and Budget Travel.

Popularity: 11% [?]

Paris: Self-guided walking tours offer unique perspective

Monday, March 23rd, 2009
A walking tour takes you past this vinyard in Paris.

Paris' last remaining vineyard on the Rue des Saules.

By Liz Webber

One of the best ways to experience Paris is by wandering through the streets, especially when you’re accompanied by someone who knows what to look for.

But who wants to pay for a tour guide?

One do-it-yourself option that caught our attention is City Walks: Paris. These detailed “Adventures on Foot” are walking tour itineraries printed on cards, and can help you experience a new side of the city.

Paris Adventures on FootA walk to remember

The “City Walks” set consists of 50 cards, each detailing a different walk. On one side of the card you’ll find written directions of where to go and what to look for along the way. On the other side is a map of the area with the path marked in red. We found the maps generally helpful, although not all of the streets are labeled.

Some of the itineraries are obvious, like a stroll down the Champs Elysées or a walk through the Tuileries garden. Other walks take you to areas less-traveled by tourists, like Père Lachaise in the 20th Arrondissement or the Parc Montsouris in the 14th. Each walk starts and ends at a Métro stop, so the suggested path is easy to find and you won’t be stranded once it’s over.

A test drive, er, walk

I recently went on a couple of the walks through Montmartre (be warned: lots of hills and stairs). Though I’d wandered the streets of the 18th before, I would not have known to look for many of the sights on the card, or even what I was seeing if I’d found them on my own.

The coolest finds: Paris’s last remaining vineyard on the Rue des Saules (pictured above) and a statue of a man walking through a wall at the Place Marcel Aymé; the statue is inspired by a short story by Aymé.

City Walks sets are available for many cities around the world – other European editions include Rome, London and Amsterdam. You can purchase City Walks: Paris from Chronicle Books for $14.95, and from many American booksellers.

About the author: Liz Webber is a freelance journalist living and working in Paris. She has previously worked for the International Herald Tribune and Budget Travel.

Popularity: 11% [?]

Prague: Free walking tours every day

Tuesday, August 19th, 2008

When in Prague, why not spend a couple of hours walking the town with a local? And not just any local—a local who’s a history buff! “Free Prague Tours” offers just that. The organization, made up of English-speaking tour guides, offers twice-daily walking tours of the Old Town and Mala Strana. And yes, they’re free! (Although a tip is expected at the end.)

We’re big fans of guided walking tours, especially when you’re lead around town by somebody who knows their stuff. Of course, we also enjoy the “do-it-yourself tour,” with a Lonely Planet or Rick Steves book in hand. But a guided tour offers the chance for dialogue with a local who can answer questions that will inevitably arise. Walking tours also let you relax (stop reading and walking!), and give you a chance to focus on the subject at hand.

Free Prague Tours

Prague Walking Tours offers two free tours daily:

The 10:30 AM “Right Bank Tour” focuses on sights to the right of the Vltava River. It starts in the Old Town Square and astronomical clock, and hits the “Powder Tower,” Wenceslas Square, Franciscan Garden, National Museum, and Jewish Ghetto. Along the way, your guide will discuss communism, the “Velvet revolution,” and Franz Kafka, among other subjects.

The 2 PM tour focuses on the sights of Prague’s Left Bank. The tour also starts in the Old Town Square, then heads to the Rudolfinum, crosses the Charles Bridge and explores Malá Strana. You’ll visit Parliament, Prague Castle (the courtyard), St. Vitus Cathedral, and the Strahov Monastery, among other places of interest.

Both tours last two and a half to three hours (depending on how quickly you walk and how many questions you ask).

Taking a walking tour

No reservations are necessary to take a walking tour with Free Prague Tours. Tours begin in the Old Town Square, at the corner of Pa?ížská street. You’ll see a small brown sign in front of the Czech Tourism Office.

Note: Although the tours are free, tipping your guide is essential. The guides are students, academics, artists, and professional guides who give these tours to supplement their incomes.

Free Prague Tours also offers a nightly “Ghost and Beer Tour” of Prague for 200 Czk (about €8).

Also see: Our guide to budget hotels in Prague.

Popularity: 30% [?]

London: Five free walking tours

Tuesday, June 3rd, 2008

Hyde Park

Do you smell that, Cheapos? It’s the scent of summer, of rubber-soled walking shoes, and of crisp, new, glossy maps. It’s time to set foot in the land of tea and crumpets. Royal weeeeee!

Here are five fabulous walking tours in London that won’t cost you a pound. Get moving!

1) For Charles Dickens fans:

London is a virtual playground for book nerds. Using this wonderful free tour from the London Tourism Board—that comes in a convenient PDF format and can be downloaded to your computer—you’ll visit the homes of John Keats, Charles Dickens, the essayist Thomas Carlyle, and Sigmund Freud. And, since for some of the jaunt you’re in the heart of literary Bloomsbury, you can also beckon your inner Virginia Woolf.

2) For thick skins:

Jack the Ripper was one of London’s most notorious serial killers. Today, there are countless (and expensive) tourist trap tours of the life and times of “Jack-attack.” Enter Richard Jones—author, tour guide, and frequent contributor to the History and Discovery networks—who offers a DIY Ripper walk for free on his website. Visit the locations of all actual killings and get a taste for the crimes that stumped the city’s police in the 1880s. One caveat: Jones doesn’t recommend doing this walk alone after dark. Instead, he says, link up with at least three others and go during the day. (Ooooh, creepy!)

3) For those who love the Queen:

You simply cannot visit London without getting a taste of the monarchy. But, let’s face it, a ticket into Buckingham Palace is costly (£15.50, to be exact). Although Sandeman’s New London Tours normally charge for their guided tours, every other day (from April to August) and everyday from May through July, they offer a free “royalty tour.” Visit all the regal hot spots, including St. Martin in the Fields, Westminster Abbey (where Queen Elizabeth was crowned in 1953), and Nelson’s Column. Best of all, you’ll benefit from the tour guide’s expertise, although your guide may ask for a small tip at the end. Check the schedule here.

4) For bridge-hopping:

We’ve recently come across a great site, London for Free, that features a fantastic “bridges walking tour.” Take in Westminster Bridge, the famous London Bridge, and Tower Bridge, plus many others, on an easy-to-use trail laid out by the LFF’s experts. Also included: little known trivia facts that will complement the sightseeing. (For example, did you know that for years London Bridge was the only working bridge in London? Or that because residents relied so heavily on ferries to cross the river, today’s ”EastEnders” still occasionally refer to the West End of London as “up West.”)

5) For the outdoorsy types:

If you just want to get up and go, then get thee to Visit London’s latest venture, “London Outdoors“.  Tons of free information, including how to get to and from walking tour locations, trail maps, and more are available on the site. If you’re already in London, we recommend you head to the London Tourist Information Center, at 1 Lower Regent Street (closest tube station is Piccadilly Circus), and just ask for a free walking tour and map. Then, get hoofing!

Popularity: 27% [?]