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You know that quintessential Copenhagen postcard picture—the one of the canal with all the colorful 17th-century houses, a giant anchor, old-fashioned sloops, and crowded outdoor restaurants? Well, that's the scene that sits in front of the Hotel Bethel Sømandshjem. Situated on the "quiet" half of the picturesque Nyhavn Canal, this former seaman's hostel offers decent rooms in a wonderful location at fair prices.
The very sweet Miss Sunnva, a transplant from the Faroe Islands, courteously gave us a tour. The Sømandshjem (a real mouthful for the non-Scandinavian speaker) used to be a guesthouse and chapel for sailors, hence the name, which tranlates roughly to "seaman's home." It has 30 simple en suite rooms, about half of which offer that famous view.
The rooms, singles and doubles only, are apparently in two phases of renovation. Though, aside from the bathrooms—more recently renovated ones were a wee bit fresher—we really couldn't tell the difference. Décor is circa early '90s with plain-Jane wood furniture, pastel blankets, and little else in the way of ambience; but all the facilities are quite clean, including the bathrooms. Naturally, rooms on the bustling Nyhavn-Holbergsgade corner are a bit noisier than those that overlook the sunny courtyard in the rear. But then you get that fabulous view.
On Mondays, Tuesdays, and Wednesdays, the Sømandshjem serves dinner. Otherwise, you won't have far to go to find a Danish meal—Nyhavn's cobblestone streets are practically bursting with them (though you may want to head further a-field for mealtime values). Due to the Sømandshjem's very popular location and limited number of rooms, we suggest booking well in advance.
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