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The two-star Hotel Portugal wins our "Old-school Lisboa" award. Once fancy, these days the Portugal is looking a little worn around the edges. We mean that in a nice way: High ceilings, crown molding, and imposing antiques make it stately. Past-its-prime carpet, faux-flower-filled vases, and some seriously old televisions make it seem tired.
Built in 1872, this 59-room hotel is a block east of Praça da Figueira. Rooms have attractive, carved wood headboards with coordinating desks and nightstands. Along with the televisions, the telephones and stuffed armchairs are ready for retirement. However, many of the Portugal's nicely sized rooms have grand windows with rod-iron railings. Shiny bathrooms, done up in lovely peach marble, make a nice contrast.
Really, the Portugal is best appreciated in its shared spaces. Pop your head into a doorway and you might find a stern antique dining set or a dramatic chandelier. And the azuelo tiles, which line the hallways and lobby, are simply lovely.
Should the owners resist the renovation urge for a few more years, this place might seem like a hybrid between a museum and a kitschy hotel. Whether they choose to update or not, we hope the Portugal's old-world charm will be preserved.
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