Hotel Portugal

The two-star is looking a little worn around the edges. We mean that in a nice way: High ceilings, crown molding and imposing antiques make it stately. Past-its-prime carpet, faux-flower-filled vases and some seriously old televisions make it seem tired.

Built in 1872, this 59-room hotel is a block east of Praça da Figueira. Rooms have carved wooden headboards with coordinating desks and nightstands. Along with the outdated televisions, the telephones and stuffed armchairs are ready for retirement. However, many of the Portugal's nicely sized rooms have grand windows with rod-iron railings. Shiny bathrooms, done up in lovely peach marble, make a nice contrast.

Really, the Hotel Portugal is best appreciated in its shared spaces. Pop your head into a doorway and you might find a stern antique dining set or a dramatic chandelier. And the azuelo tiles, which line the hallways and lobby, are simply lovely.

Note: A metro line runs right under the Hotel Portugal, and consequently guest rooms can get some noise (and vibrations) from the passing trains.