Ever wonder how a EuroCheapo correspondent experiences a city he or she is reviewing? Our Paris Correspondent Michael Kirwan reflects on his favorite Paris hotels.
1. Favorite hotels.
My favorite Parisian hotels are the Hotel de Nesle and Hotel Esmeralda, both of which I'd count as "one-star wonders." One-star hotels in Paris have to have lots of charm to draw guests away from their star-studded competition, and none manage this feat better than these two gems. I visited countless two-star and three-star hotels with the same two-tone rooms and clichéd watercolor paintings of the Eiffel Tower. While these midrange hotels may have modern comforts and clean, serviceable rooms, they tend to lack the funkiness so evident at both the Nesle and the Esmeralda.
The Nesle is an adventure in itself. The amount of thought and effort put into each room is remarkable. Originality and artistry are key at this hotel. The Nesle really honors the bohemian spirit of Paris that still exists today, half-hidden among the very expensive real estate.
The Esmeralda is similarly cheap, and has a great location. It is creaky and wonderfully eccentric, with breathtaking views. and it's just steps from the Seine. Staying in the Esmeralda is like living a fantasy of Paris as dreamed up by Paris-loving travelers the world over.
2. Favorite thing about working in Paris.
I really appreciated being able to take long daily walks around the city. Instead of taking the Metro from hotel to hotel I visited just about each one by foot. Each day I took long walks down the wide boulevards and strolled along claustrophobic side streets. I discovered a side to Paris off the beaten tourist track, coming across Arab-French shop owners, lunching bourgeois, and unemployed young people along the way. These walks gave me a different sort of feel for the city.
3. Funny story.
I don't know if I can point to one funny story in particular but I did have a lot of laughs while strolling through Parisian quarters looking for the perfect hotel.
And I am sure that my accent made people laugh when I first arrived!
4. City secret.
I have to admit that this isn't really a secret, but for those looking for fine French eats on the cheap I would suggest buying a fresh baguette at the boulangerie, some creamy chèvre from the fromagerie, sausage from the boucherie, and an inexpensive (yet tasty) bottle of Bordeaux from the supermarket on the way to eating on the grass of one of Paris’s manicured parks. Magnifique!
If you favor a tipple or two, be sure to note that drinking in Paris—especially central Paris—is extremely expensive. For those without money to burn, happy hour is king. Some very chic bars and lounges slash their prices in half during twilight hours, which means cocktails for €5 in some normally inaccessible joints.
Another tip, which I have to admit is a bit of a plug: The Paris Times is a great source for events and happenings in the city of light. It's free and English speakers can find it in cafés, pubs, and bookshops around Paris.
5. Favorite food.
Picking one favorite food in Paris is impossible. First off, there are delicious traditional French foods like cheese, wines, crêpes, and foie gras. But there is also a huge international influence in Parisian gastronomy. There are delicious Algerian, Lebanese, Senegalese, Moroccan, Swiss, Italian, and Russian restaurants throughout the city.
6. Highlights of time living in France.
Besides working for EuroCheapo I am an assistant editor for The Paris Times, an English-language monthly for the Anglophone community in Paris. I am extremely proud of the paper and the service it provides.
Other highlights of my time in France include improving my French (I spoke not a word of French a mere two years ago!), living in a French home, and experiencing Paris as a resident and not a tourist.