Get more bang for your forint with our Cheapo-tested tips for a night out in Budapest. Kari Hoerchler, who recently prowled the city’s streets hunting down hotels for us, also found out how to have fun…

Start the night with a free drink.

A cheapo could get a jump start on the evening with a free drink at the Matyas’ wine fountain in the Labyrinth of Castle Hill. However, we found it more efficient and enjoyable to fork out the HUF 8000 (roughly €31) to sample over 50 wines at the House of Hungarian Wines above ground.

Get your restaurant row on.

Ramble on over to the Liszt ter, the veritable restaurant row of Budapest. People watching is free of charge, not to mention fun. And, frugal dining spots abound. A fresh variety of cocktails, sandwiches and salads are available at Café Vian. ‘Pest favorites, including goulash and fruit soup, are served at Menza (which also serves international fare, like pasta and salads). Both restaurants run a tab of about HUF 3,200 (almost €13) per person.

Hit up a club.

For a walk on the wild side, head over to Erzsebet ter to catch live acts and art at the underground Godor Club. Even if the place gets overcrowded with revelers, it’s still fun to check out the stage from the park above via a glass bottom fountain. When we were last in Budapest, we made a visit. Pints of beer were HUF 480 (just under €2) and entry was free.

The late night and early morning crowd pumps at Szóda. Not only is the design of this club chic, but the crowd is notoriously hip, making Szoda the perfect place to find out where the latest and greatest kerts (makeshift bars in the courtyards of abandoned buildings) can be found. The team behind Szoda are also behind several of the city’s speakeasies.

Sit back and relax.

For a more mellow mood, catch local and European art films at one of Budapest’s opulent, old movie houses. Urania National Movie Theatre was built in the 1890s. Plush velvet seats and gold vaulted ceilings trick the eyes into thinking one is spending the evening at the much more expensive opera house across town. Stop by the box office to find out which films have subtitles. Tickets run between HUF 890 and 990 (€3.50-4).

Kari Hoerchler is a budget traveler and science fiction novelist stationed on Planet Earth. Not only has Kari been a star contributor to EuroCheapo’s guide to Budapest, she has also recently been spotted under spotlights on small stages in New York coffeehouses telling tall tales of a tropical island—and future vacation hot spot—in the Bermuda Triangle. Book ahead.

What are the Cheapos reading over lunch today? Here’s a quick Tuesday flip-through:

Flight Reading

When we can’t hop on a plane and jet to Europe, we tend to pick up a good read to quell the urge. So, we were happy to be reminded by The Intelligent Traveler that “The Best American Travel Writing”, 2007 edition, which hit bookstores last fall, is chock full of essays that will take you there.

Travel Gal Pals

We’re excited for the launch of Budget Travel’s new magazine, Girlfriend Getaways. The first issue is out on newsstands now and includes a cheeky article by Ann Hood about how she and a few friends went searching for George Clooney while visiting Italy’s Lake District. We tried to find George too, while at ITB Berlin. But, only got as far as this wax figurine.

Budapest Bets 

Last week, Daily Candy emailed us about Budapest. Not only did they dish up ideas for where to get drinks, soak up the entertainment factor, and eat our hearts out, but they also recommend a few spas. Who wants to play chess in a sauna? We do!

Local Listings

We’re loving Olivia Giovetti’s (aka “High Culture on a Low Budget“) feature “Ask a Local.” This week, she asked Mike from Munich about his cheapest thrills and where he gets his doner kebab. We’ll definitely be following this series!

Back in day, it was fairly typical to see many old Hungarian men and woman hanging out well into the night at a traditional coffee house in Budapest. Ideas were discussed and many pastries were consumed.

Today, it’s hard to narrow in on some of these ancient gems (no, we’re not talking about the old men and women), but they do still exist. And, the best part? An old coffee house or confectionery in Budapest can make for a fantastic cheapo’s night out. For the price of a cup of coffee and a yummy confection, you’ll be stepping back in time, connecting with Hungarian culture and often hanging out in a lavish turn-of-the-century building.

Here are five of our favorites:

1) Angelika                                                                                              

I. Batthyany ter 7

Open: Monday through Wednesday and on Sundays from 9 am to midnight; Thursday to Saturday from 9 am to 2 am

If the stained-glass windows, vaulted cielings and views of the Danube don’t draw you in, then the unique origin of this coffee house surely will. The Angelika, aptly named, sits inside the former crypt of St. Anne’s Church. Be sure to check out all the fabulous Buda ladies, who tend to sit here for hours sipping on the first-rate hot tea and engaging in conversation.

2) Muvesz Café
VI., Andrassy ut 29

Open: Daily from 9 am to midnight

This is a good bet if you’re planning a longer evening out as it’s one of the few old coffee houses that stays open late. They serve lots of yummy cakes and sandwiches. The décor is late 19th-century. Now, we admit, this isn’t one of the cheaper haunts, but if you want to feel like you’re in a legitimate establishment, Muvesz delivers. Look for ladies in fur hats.

3) Lukács ConfectioneryVI., Andrassy ut 70

Open: Monday through Friday from 9 am to 8 pm and weekends from 10 am to 8 pm

For years, this confectionery was a meeting place for the secret Hungarian police and served as a bank too. Today, it maintains that somewhat buttoned-up, underground vibe. You walk in through the old bank entrance and can even order a cake called the “bankar”. Lots of waitresses in fancy uniforms, pretty carpets and a huge dessert display make for fun distractions.

4) Ruszwurm                                                                                                             <I, Szentharomsag ter 7

Open: Daily from 10 am to 8 pm (though we’ve known them to close at 7 pm if they aren’t busy)

Smack dab in the middle of the castle disctrict, this is a true example of a smallish old Baroque coffee house. It opened in 1824. Spend the evening wandering the district’s grounds and then stop in—if you can nab a seat (this place gets packed, especially in summer months). Let yourself eat cake here.

5) Gerbeaud Confectionery
V., Vorosmarty ter 7 (just off Vorosmarty Square)

Founded in 1858, Gerbeaud still has all its charm. Crystal chandeliers hang above the crowds (the Gerbeaud can hold 300 guests at one time) and pastries are of both Hungarian and Viennese origin. Try the cognac cherry cake, a concoction by former owner Emil Gerbeaud. And, if you’re tired of tourists, you can always skip the hubbub at Gerbeaud and head around the corner to Kis Gerbeaud (”Little Gerbaud”) which has cheaper pastries and less flash.

A few food-related articles and posts that have caught our eye over the last few days…

1. Kevin Gould’s “Eat like a local…” Budapest feature in last Saturday’s Guardian. Mmmm, coffee and cake, and lots of it.

2. In the Telegraph, Gill Charlton’s guide to Naples, with its mention of ultracheap, ultradelicious pizzeria Vesi.

3. David Lebovitz’s France archive.

4. Nordljus’s riveting images of Istanbul, many of which are of things to eat.

Even the most seasoned European traveller can be caught unawares by rail schedules changes. Most European rail companies introduce major timetable changes over the second weekend in December, and this year there are some big alterations in the offing.

There is no more civilised way of making a big hop across Europe than on a night train, and the new schedules see a whole raft of new night train services. Take Amsterdam for example. The Dutch city has always featured on Europe’s night train schedules, but for 2008 Amsterdam secures new daily services to Copenhagen, Dresden, Milan, Minsk, Moscow, Prague, and Warsaw.

For the first time for many years Switzerland and Bavaria will benefit from direct overnight trains to Poland and points east, with new direct night sleeper services from Basel SBB and Munich to Warsaw and Moscow. Fixed fares apply for travel on most European night train routes, often with little advantage for railpass holders. A one-way journey in a shared sleeper costs from €69. For those on a budget, couchettes are priced from €49 and a one-way overnight in a reclining seat begins at €29.

The changes are of course not limited to night train services. New for 2008 are a daily direct train from both Vienna and Prague to Stralsund on Germany’s Baltic coast, a very handy new daytime train from Kraków to Budapest (less than nine hours on a beautiful route through the mountains that straddle the Polish-Slovakian border), a new fast direct daytime service from Paris to Munich (just over six hours) to supplement the long-standing Paris-Munich night train, a new direct Berlin to Copenhagen link (where the entire train gets shipped on a ferry between Denmark and Germany), and a new direct once daily train from Geneva Airport to Venice.

Rail travel in Europe can challenge even the most competent travel planner. Web sites like those of the Deutsche Bahn can help. But there is really no substitute for the Thomas Cook European Rail Timetable, a gem of a book updated each month. For many savvy European travellers, it is required bedtime reading.

This is the fifth in a series of fortnightly blog posts by the editors of hidden europe.

Photo by Salsano

Do something in Budapest that will be unforgettable and likely much cheaper than it would be at home—an organized afternoon at the horse races, through Budapest Tours.

For HUF8000 (€32; $43) your own personal guide will welcome you with drinks, introduce you to the history of horse-racing in Hungary and the rules of betting, and show you all the behind the scenes preparations for the race. You will be given some racing tips and two coupons for betting on the filly of your choice. Then you can cheer on your fancy in the race itself.

All in all a winning day, even if your horse isn’t first past the post.

Photo by vxla

Summer in Budapest means long, warm nights, which the city uses to best effect to host some excellent outdoor theatre performances. The most extravagant summer performances are on Margit Island, the luscious green spot in the middle of the Danube.

This year, the season’s first performance on the island stage is on June 10; the program closes out on September 15. The performance series features music and dance for every taste, from Aida to Riders on the Storm, and from a musical versions of Doctor Jekyll and Mr Hyde and Dracula to the Budapest Klezmer band.

Tickets can be ordered from the box office on the island, or online. Ticket prices start at HUF2500 (€9.90; $13.20).

For pre-theatre or post-theatre drinks or dinner the island boasts some good, atmospheric terraced cafes and restaurants.

Photo by pnoid00

On June 23, Budapest will hold its third Night of Museums to celebrate St John’s Midsummer Night. Traditionally, this is the night when fires are kept burning for unmarried girls to jump over and so guarantee themselves a husband, and fruit is thrown into the fire to guarantee a good harvest.

Torches and candles will be lit and fire-blowers will perform outside the National Museum—one of 29 museums and public collections taking part in this year’s Night of Museums. All 29 places will stay open from 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. and will host special programs, concerts, and dance performances in addition to their usual exhibitions. In previous years, some venues have been known to offer a snack and a glass of wine—or a hot chocolate. But the highlight of the night has to be the special show of erotic Roman artifacts at the Aquincum Museum!

The night is marvellous fun and a paradise for Cheapos. Free buses transport culture hounds to museums, departing from Erzsébet Tér every 30 minutes. Tickets for all events can be bought from the Budapest Transport Company (BKV) for HUF500 (€1.95; $2.65). For details of exhibitions and programs, check out the night’s schedule.

Photo courtesy of  Kari Hoerchler

Where would you go if you wanted to sport crazy tights and ride Critical Mass? Or don a wool blanket while dining out at the latest ‘It’ restaurant? A place where ‘sör’ means ‘beer’ and ‘bor’ means wine?

Budapest, babája (baby)!

During a recent to trip to the Hun capital, we noticed the city under siege thanks to a few fun trends. One of the easiest places to spot the latest fashions is the Liszt tér. An artery of the Andrassy út, the tér is made up of a long strip of parkland featuring a bronze statue of Liszt, looking windblown and surrounded by airy cafés.

The ideal locale for people watching? We like to hunker down in a wicker chair in front of one of the square’s cafés. With a wool blanket, of course. That’s right Cheapos. Local women take to wrapping themselves in the colorful blankets on chilly nights, but not only that: they’re also fans of covering their gams with eccentric tights. Patterns of every stripe are represented, it seems, adding frivolity to otherwise conservative dress.

The Liszt tér eateries are optimal for observing the local peacock procession, and the food is delicious. We returned several times to Café Vian for their HUF1350 ($7) Hawaiian salad. The cappuccinos are HUF380 ($2) each and mojitos run HUF1500 ($8). The highly publicized Menza was also a treat. One Friday night we dined on veal paprika with a side order of white asparagus. The whole spread was HUF3060 ($16) including drinks.

Finally, we read in several guide books Budapest is not a bike friendly town. A confusing claim since we saw bikes everywhere and the local chapter of Critical Mass is quite active. The group, which begun officially in 2004, fights for the right to ride a bike in the congested city while calling attention to automobile induced pollution. The latest demonstration on wheels was held on Earth Day, April 22, 2007.

Photo courtesy of SpirosK

After perusing the Kárpátia Restaurant Web site, we were halfway expecting a tourist trap. Between the beautifully decorated vaulted ceilings and the shameless plugs for Sarközi and his Gipsy Band (the in-house band) the restaurant appeared to be a traditional Hungarian cliché. Thankfully, it was all that and more.

Our meal took off with a small glass of brandy, followed by a creamy appetizer platter and the Kárpátia salad with duck breast and wild mushrooms. It began to dawn on us that our best meal in Budapest was unfolding.

My main course consisted of a Mangalica filet mignon with clove-quince apple compote. My travel companion enjoyed wild duck with balsamic vinegar and wild grapes. We savored a dry, red Hungarian house wine between bites. The meal came to a bittersweet close with poppy seed cake and Somlói galuska, a rum-scented vanilla cream cake with chocolate sauce.

At HUF16,400 (€66; $90), the final bill for two certainly worth the splurge.

We were sold on the band as well, happily shelling out HUF5,000 (€20; $27) for their CD. Sarközi and band played up for each and every table, posing in perfect time for cameras and pulling out local favorites for impromptu tableside celebrations.

Wandering Cheapo Kari Hoerchler is a blogger, budget traveler, and science fiction novelist stationed on Planet Earth. She has recently been spotted on small stages of New York coffeehouses telling tall tales of a tropical island—and future vacation hot spot—in the Bermuda Triangle. Book ahead.