The organ in St. Peter's Church. Photo by NH53.

By Sarah Silbert—

The hills may be alive with The Sound of Music in Salzburg, but there’s plenty to do that doesn’t involve Mozart and the Von Trapp family. For a trip down the less-touristy path, follow our tips on the best cheap (and free) activities in this stately Austrian city.

Toy Museum
Bürgerspitalgasse 2
Tel.: +43-662-62 08 08-300
Hours: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday (open Mondays in July, August and December)
Admission: €3

To every city’s expensive modern art museum, there is a cheaper, quirkier collection to check out. Enter Salzburg’s Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum), home to Austria’s largest collection of European toys. If you’re a die-hard toy train fan, you’ll find plenty to feast your eyes on; if not, the inoffensive €3 admission is worth it for a chuckle.

If you have children in tow, make sure to stop for one of the Punch and Judy shows, offered every Tuesday and Wednesday at 3 p.m. Check the museum’s Web site for a complete list of children’s programs.

Museum of Historical Musical Instruments
Bürgerspitalgasse 2
Tel.: +43-662-62 08 08-300
Hours: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday (open Mondays in July, August and December)
Admission: €3 (or free with admission to the Toy Museum)

Hangar-7. Photo: Strizale

If you visit the Toy Museum, your ticket is also valid for admission to the Museum of Historic Musical Instruments. If the centuries-old pianos start giving you déjà vus of the exhibit at Mozart’s House, check out the collection of audio samples demonstrating the ancient instruments’ sounds.

St. Peter’s Church and Catacombs
Sankt Peter Bezirk 1
Tel.: +43 -662-844576
Hours: Open daily from 8 a.m.-12 p.m. and 4:30 p.m.-6:30 p.m.
Admission: Free (€1 to visit the Catacombs)

The self-proclaimed “oldest cloister in the German-speaking world,” St. Peter’s Church dates back to 696. (The church also boasts the oldest library in Austria.) Visiting the church is free, so stop by to admire the Baroque-style ceilings or to catch a performance on the church’s organ.

Outside, St. Peter’s Cemetery houses centuries-old tombstones. For €1, visitors can access the Christian catacombs in the cliff face above the cemetery.

Schloss Mirabell
Mirabellplatz 4
Tel.: +43-662-80722334
Hours: 8 a.m.-4 p.m (Monday to Thursday), 8 a.m.-2:30 p.m. (Friday)
Admission: Free

One of Salzburg most photographed attractions is also free to visit! Schloss Mirabell is as elegant as can be, with marble statues, grand hallways and perfectly manicured gardens stretching in all directions. The palace was built under Prince Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau as a present for his concubine Salome Alt.

Nowadays, Schloss Mirabell is best known for being a coveted place to tie the knot; couples must reserve their weddings here at least a year in advance. The palace also offers a concert series, though attending a performance is not free.

Hangar-7
Salzburg Airport
Wilhelm-Spazier-Str. 7A
Tel.:+43-6620-2197
Hours: Open daily from 9 a.m.-10 p.m.
Admission: Free

Located near the Salzburg airport, Hangar-7 is a restaurant and bar complex that also houses “The Flying Bulls” aircraft. While the aircraft exhibit—complete with large Red Bull logos stenciled on each plane’s side—smacks of sponsorship, Hangar-7 does showcase some interesting work from a variety of international artists. Though Hangar-7’s dining options come with a hefty price tag, stopping by to gaze at the art (and marvel at the super-modern building) is completely free.

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A newstand in Barcelona. Photo by caribb.

By Regina Winkle-Bryan in Barcelona—

We know how it is, Cheapos. You get into a new city, and you want to know what is going on while you’re in town. Maybe there is some info at your hostel or hotel, but most of the time the fliers will be a bit on the touristy side.

Luckily, plenty of other local sources can fill you in on what’s happening. When in Barcelona, check out these magazines, mini-guides, and Web sites for what is going down while you’re in the Catalan capital.

LeCool

This magazine and website used to annoy me because it is so last minute (it comes out once a week), making it a difficult source to use to plan ahead. However, I now see its virtues. If you are looking for something to do NOW, then this is the place to check. LeCool features music, theater, art, fashion, clubs, parties, and many other quirky underground events. (No flamenco here.)

Barcelona Metropolitan Magazine

The Barcelona Metropolitan Magazine maintains a good online presence, with daily updates on what is happening in the city. There is also a wide array of very useful articles pertaining to Barcelona. Finding the print magazine is harder and harder these days, but is still found at some English-speaking pubs and restaurants in the center of the city.

Mini-Guide

Available online,  Mini-guide is also found at bars and restaurants around the city. This small guide comes out monthly and highlights the best of the city’s cinema, theater, dance, club, party, concert, museum, and fashion scene. It also lists restaurants and bars (as does the Metropolitan).

Time Out Barcelona

Well, this one may be a stretch because it is in either Catalan or Spanish. But if you are up to the challenge, then buy a Time Out at any newsstand around town. Time Out gives the heads-up on new restaurants and bars in town, along with a very complete listing of entertainment options. It comes out every week.

Catalonia Today Newspaper

This paper covers all of Catalonia. Take a look if you are curious about politics, economy, news, and culture in this region of Spain. The paper comes out once a month and can be purchased at any newsstand. Catalonia Today often has cultural listings and reviews. The paper will give you a more local perspective, as it is meant for people living in Catalonia who have not bothered to learn Catalan (or don’t care to read the news in a language other than English).

Other sources

Other than these options, you can also always consult the daily paper (El Periodico, La Vanguardia, El Pais). Thursday’s papers are generally the best for listing what is happening over the weekend. Ask at the tourist information office for what’s on at Barcelona’s many theaters and concert halls and see if there are any discounts to be had (there usually are).

You can also ask at the tourist information office for information on festivals and holidays that might be going on while you are in town—in Spain, there’s a good chance something will be celebrated, and checking out a traditional festival is a unique experience.

About the author: Regina W. Bryan is a Barcelona-based freelance writer and photographer. When not eating tapas and exploring Europe, she is tending her balcony veggie garden and practicing Catalan. For more of her thoughts on Spain, check: www.regwb.com and www.thespainscoop.com.

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Zofin Island, site of the Prague Wine Festival. Photo by kh1234567890.

By Joann Plockova in Prague—

September marks wine harvesting season in the Czech Republic (yes, there is a beverage beyond beer here), and wine harvest festivals are held throughout the country in celebration. Amongst them is the weekend-long Prague Wine Festival (September 17-19, 2010). Along with the opportunity to sample hundreds of wines, this event offers an accompanying cultural and events program to enhance your buzz—along with an exceptional island location.

The Czech wine tradition

Kicking off on a Friday, the festival will give attendees the chance to taste the gifts of the grape from the Czech Republic’s main wine producing lands, Moravia (the Southeastern part of the country), as well as those from Bohemia (the Western part), which includes Prague. Winery representatives from other wine countries in Europe, including Slovakia, Austria, Hungary, Germany and France, will also be present.

Prague has a rich viticulture tradition, which began with the Royal Vineyards founded by Charles IV. The vineyards were spread out on the slopes  in what is now the Vinohrady (vineyards) quarter of the city, among other areas. Though the Royal Vineyards are largely gone, there are two preserved vineyards in Vinohrady and one renewed vineyard at Vyšehrad.

Žofin island

What makes the wine festival particularly special is its unique location. Resting in the middle of the Vltava River, Prague is home to several islands, including Slovanský ostrov (Slavic Island) or Žofin (as its known colloquially), which is where the festival will take place.

Composed mainly of grassy areas, large trees and several benches to sit back and sip on, the island has a romantic vibe, enhanced further with excellent views of the castle, the river’s bridges and the National Theater, which is just up the street.

The island is also home to the neo-renaissance Žofin Palace, a leading cultural and social events center since 1837. On its south side rests the Manes Building, an excellent example of functionalist architecture. The Manes Building houses one of the city’s most exceptional art galleries and is uniquely juxtaposed with a 15th-century water tower that stands beside it.

What’s on the program

In addition to history, wine and great views, the event offers a daily program of musical performances by traditional folk bands, wine-tasting lectures and presentations, a wine auction and a competition for the best wine. If you come with kids, check out the children’s programs at the island’s most-excellent playground.

For a basic entrance pass—valid for all three days—the event costs just 220 CZK (about $11!), which includes a tasting glass and a Prague festival guide. In a nutshell: a taste of the Czech Republic for cheap!

Tickets can be purchased at TicketPro or at the event. For special tastings held in the small hall of Žofin palace, there is limited spacing, so buy now.

Prague Wine Festival
Žofin island (Narodni tram stop)
September 17th: 2 p.m.-10 p.m.
September 18th-19th: – 10 a.m.- 10 p.m.
Web site

About the author: Joann Plockova is a freelance writer based in Prague. Among other topics, she likes to write about architecture, design, food and culture. You can have a look at some of her work on her website and read about her adventures along the way on her blog.

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A memorial for Christoph-Manuel Bramböck. Photos © hidden europe.

By Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries—

Amid Europe’s frenzied political turmoil of 20 years ago, there were all manner of landmark dates that were stepping stones en route to a new order. And August 31, 1990 was one of the most significant. For it was 20 years ago today that representatives of the governments of East Germany and West Germany met in Berlin to sign the Unification Treaty that was to lead to the merging of the two German States on October 3, 1990—or, rather more precisely, the assimilation of the six eastern German Länder into the Federal Republic of Germany.

Some look back now and have misgivings about how events unfolded. Many commentators suggest that East Germany disappeared too quickly and that the life experiences of an entire generation were dismissed as worthless.

Dismantling the Berlin Wall

Another memorial along the Berlin Wall Trail

History is made up of individuals and not merely the schemes of governments. And August 31, 1990 was a day of personal tragedy in the community in which we live on the outskirts of Berlin. The Wall has now long gone, but in summer 1990 local kids were busy chipping away at the structure. Where once the Wall stood, now there is a beautiful cycle route that tracks round the outer edges of Berlin. Susan Buzzelli highlighted the merits of that bike path in a posting earlier this month here on EuroCheapo.

A tragic accident

On August 31, 1990, 14-year-old Christoph-Manuel Bramböck from Lichterfelde (Berlin) became the victim of a terrible accident. He was chipping away at the bottom of the Wall, keen to get some fragments of the fast disappearing structure. He did not notice that his efforts had loosened a slab of concrete higher up the Wall. The block crashed down on Christoph-Manuel’s head, killing him instantly. He was the last victim of the Berlin Wall.

The Berlin Wall trail

The Berlin Mauerweg cycle route has many memorials along its route, recalling episodes connected with the Wall that for almost three decades divided Berlin. Among them is the memorial to Christoph-Manuel. who would have celebrated his 35th birthday this October. The Berlin Wall trail is an engaging tour of Cold War history and a reminder of the human dimension of international politics.

About the authors: Nicky and Susanne run a Berlin-based editorial bureau that supplies text and images to media across Europe. Together they edit hidden europe magazine. You can read more of their writing in their regular e-brief and in the Notes section on their website.

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Le Mur pour la Paix and the Eiffel Tower. Photos by Theodora Brack.

By Theadora Brack in Paris—

“We’ll always have Paris,” Rick tells Elsa at the end of the movie Casablanca, without mentioning any of their favorite haunts in the City of Light. But I say, “Play it again, Sam,” and this time with addresses. After all, everyone’s got their own Paris.

A peaceful view

For instance, King Henri IV cavorted on the tip of the Île de la Cité, while centuries later the Seine bridges crossing the island captivated painter Edward Hopper. Fighting writer’s block, Hemingway liked to sit on a bench in the Jardin du Luxembourg and wait for his first true sentences (along with dinner: roast pigeon). Henry Valentine Miller hobnobbed it with the statues at the Tuileries, while the food stalls at the great Les Halles market sparked Julia Child’s joy of cooking.

Though I’m hardly a king or a master of French cooking (yet), I, too, have a few outdoor havens I run to for inspiration.

Peace: Le Mur pour la Paix (The Wall for Peace)
Métro: École Militaire

Located on the southeast end of the grassy Champ de Mars (near the École Militaire), Le Mur pour la Paix was created in 2000 by artist Clara Halter and architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte. The word “peace” in 49 languages is inscribed on large glass panes and tall, slender metal columns.

Gaze up at the Eiffel Tower through the monument’s glass panels, and try not feel a bit more cheery about the day! Like a new pair of glasses, the calm surroundings not only changes perception, but also attitude. Take heed: After your visit, you might even commit a few acts of random kindness!

Tip: For optimum viewing, the glass and metal play nicely against the soft late afternoon sun. Advance tickets for Eiffel Tower visits are now available online. Yes, life is groovy.

Le Kiosque des Noctambules

Love: Le Kiosque des Noctambules (The Kiosk of the Night Owls)
Metro: Palais Royal—Musée du Louvre

Hold on to your beret when exiting at the Palais-Royal Métro because the mere sight of its bubblicious and bejeweled entrance has never failed to lift this Cheapo’s spirits to soaring heights. The buoyant and beautiful Kiosque des Noctambules was built in 2000 by artist Jean-Michel Othoniel in celebration of the Métro’s centennial. Created also as a nod to Hector Guimard’s curvaceous Art Nouveau entrances, its glass-beaded cupolas symbolize the dreamy meshes of day, night and afternoon. Where is the love? Trust me, it’s here.

Tip: Free concerts are often held at the surrounding Place Colette. And don’t leave without checking out the fearless rollerbladers as they perfect their moves in the nearby Place Palais-Royal.

Understanding: Rond-Point des Champs-Élysées
Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt

A view from the Rond-Point des Champs-Élysées

After hoofing it from my favorite shops on the Champs-Élysées to the Métro, I often stop and smell the roses on the traffic îles at the Rond-Point des Champs-Élysées. Here you’ll find beaucoup benches and a striking “needle in a haystack” glimpse of the Eiffel Tower. Come with a sketchbook in hand, because it’s also the perfect spot to mull over art’s function in urban street planning.

At times, the shapely Art Nouveau street furniture blends so well with the manicured flowerbeds and sculpted trees that the eye can’t always separate the organic from the man-made. The city’s attention to harmonious detail and its resulting beauty both soothes and re-energizes my spirits every time.

Tip: Below ground, the Franklin D. Roosevelt Métro station is also a sight for sore eyes. Refurbished after WWII with orange paint, bright city lights, and rounded glass cubes, it looks like a cross between a ’50s diner car and a swanky supper club. Here’s looking at you kid!

As Colette herself said, “Be happy—it’s one way of being wise.”

About the author: Theadora Brack is a writer working in Paris. Her fiction has appeared in more than 30 literary publications, including 3AM International, The Smoking Poet, Beloit Fiction Journal, Mid-American Review, and the Haight-Ashbury Literary Journal.

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A view of the Roman Forum. Photo by LostBob Photos.

By Nicole Arriaga in Rome—

There are a 101 places in Rome where you could kick back your feet, relax and reminisce over drinks. But not every café will serve up your cocktails with breathtaking views of the Ancient City.

Many of the most jaw-dropping vistas have been taken over by Rome’s most exclusive hotels, yet there are still a few rooftop gems scattered about the city accessible to Cheapos. The following watering holes on high are definitely worth your while—and they won’t cost you a fortune.

Caffeteria Italia
Via di San Pietro in Carcere
Telephone: 06 6780664

No other place in Rome boasts panoramic views like the terrace of the Vittoriano Monument in Piazza Venezia. True, it will take you nearly 200 steps to schlep to the top of the “Wedding Cake” monument where the “Terrazza delle Quadrighe” (Terrace of the Four-Horse Chariots) is located. But the real treat is the lovely café located on its lower terrace.

Stop in on your way up to enjoy a glass of wine while taking in the views of the Roman Forum and much of the historic center. Alternatively, for those who can’t handle the stairs, there are two glass elevators that will take you to the very top for €7.

Cafe Chiostro
Via della Pace, 26 (behind Piazza Navona)
Telephone: 06 68809035 int.26
Closed Mondays
Web site

Tucked away like a little secret on the second floor of the Chiostro del Bramante church and convent, this charming café offers visitors drinks, coffee and tea at tables overlooking the beautiful cloister. If you decide to pop in for a drink, you’ll have to make it an early one, as the cafeteria closes at 7:30 pm.

Aperol spritz. Photo by jlastras.

Il Fontanone Cocktail Bar del Gianicolo
Via Garibaldi, 35
Telephone: 334 5282284
Closed in the winter
Web site

Tourists flock to the top of the Gianicolo (Janiculum Hill) to get a snapshot of the domes and monuments that dot the Eternal City’s skyline.

After you’ve taken in the picture-perfect view, head to the trendy cocktail bar and enjoy an early evening aperitivo or an after-dinner drink. Aperitivos are usually served from 6:30 to 9:30 p.m., and the price (€10-€20) includes delicious snacks.

Summer Drink Tip: Aperol Spritz

A good Italian cocktail to try during the spring and summer months is an Aperol Spritz. It contains Aperol, a bitter orange alcoholic soda, white wine and sparkling water.

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Hands full of gelato from Vivoli. Photo by amesis.

By Laura Mongillo in Florence—

My name is Laura and I’m addicted to gelato. I’d eat it morning, afternoon or night, winter, spring, summer or fall. I’d eat any flavor you hand me, even though I’m a picky eater. So trust me, I’ve done my research for finding the best gelaterias in Florence.

Tips for finding good gelato

Gelato is one of Italy’s most famous exports, behind pizza and spaghetti, but you haven’t tasted anything until you’ve sampled the creamy, icy smooth, flavor-packed delight that is freshly made Italian gelato.

The key to choosing a good place to try gelato is to look for a few key characteristics. First, look for the phrase produzione propria, which means that the gelateria makes their own gelato from scratch. You’ll also often seen the English phrase “made on premises.” This guarantees fresh gelato made from fresh ingredients without any additives. Avoid any place with large mounds of decoratively displayed gelato. You never know how long that gelato has been sitting there!

It’s also not a bad rule to stick to gelaterias, which make only gelato, rather than buying it at a place that is also a bar or café.  And don’t forget keep an eye on the price! A medium cone should cost you between €2-2.50.

With these simple guidelines, you should have no trouble finding quality gelato to satisfy your sweet tooth. But just in case you don’t feel like running any risk of tasting any mediocre flavors, here are my personal favorites in Florence.

Perchè No
Via dei Tavolini, 19
Web site

This place is my favorite for many reasons. First of all, it’s one of the oldest gelaterias that I know of, founded in 1939 and extremely central, located right off of the main drag of Via Calzaiuoli. Aside from the quality of its gelato (made on the premises, of course), it also has good prices for the quantity that they give you.

Perchè No! uses all-natural ingredients, and it even offers a few soy options for vegan and lactose-intolerant gelato lovers. Don’t be afraid to try some of their less common offerings such as Fiordilatte con miele e sesame (Milk flavor with honey and sesame), Torta di Mele (Apple Pie) and Dolce di Latte (Dulce de Leche). Although tempting, the Green Tea flavor didn’t hit the spot for me!

Gelateria La Carraia
Piazza Nazario Sauro, 25

Cross over the Arno river on the Ponte La Carraia, and you’ll find yourself in front of another fantastic gelateria. Right on the corner after you cross the bridge, the Gelateria La Carraia treats your wallet well while keeping your stomach happy. Grab a cone of Ricotta e Pere (Pear and Ricotta) and head outside to munch away while enjoying the views of the river and of the Ponte Vecchio.

Gelateria de’ Neri
Via dei Neri, 20

Gelateria de’ Neri is another winner for its variety of flavors and the rich quality of the gelato. The prices are a little higher, but they’re not at all unreasonable. If you’re up for it, try the semifreddo, which is a mousse similar to gelato. The Millefoglie flavor of mousse comes with a large piece of puff pastry on top!

Finally, Gelateria dei Neri is open late—even in the winter—and it is a great place to stop on a walking tour, as it is located right between the Palazzo Vecchio and Santa Croce.

Vivoli
Via Isola delle Stinche, 7
Web site

Founded in 1930, Vivoli deserves a mention for being Florence’s most famous gelateria. While the quality of the gelato is good, the prices are quite high and the shop is quite dark and dingy. Make sure to pay at the register first, then bring your receipt to the counter to get your treat.

The best flavors here are the more traditional ones, such as pistachio and chocolate. Vivoli is near Santa Croce—but check your map, as the roads in this area are quite twisty and confusing!

About the author: Laura Mongillo holds an Undergraduate and Masters degree in Italian Studies from NYU and has been living in Florence, Italy for three years.

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Lines at Barajas International Airport. Photo by dbeery.

By Cynthia Kane in Madrid—

When planning a trip to an unknown (or even a familiar) destination, there’s one part of the equation that’s often overlooked: the airport.

Since moving to Madrid, I’ve spent a lot of time arriving in and departing from the Barajas International Airport. I’ve been in all four terminals and have learned the hard way how to make getting to the airport a stress-free experience. To make your arrival or departure as glitch-free as possible, follow the tips below.

1. Getting to the airport: Use the Metro

Getting to the airport from the city center is a cinch. Most locals hop on the Metro, switch to Line 8 (pink) at “Nuevos Ministerios” and arrive at their desired terminal.

Why do most locals take the Metro? It’s cheap! At just €2 (€1 for the ride and €1 for the airport tax), it’s a much better option than shelling out upwards of €20 for a taxi ride. The Metro can take between 30 to 45 minutes, depending on which part of the city you’re coming from. If I’m traveling light, I always take the Metro. If I can’t carry my bags, then I know it’s time to hail a cab.

2. Budget extra time for long lines

When flying from Madrid to other European destinations, I normally arrive at least two hours early, and when traveling to the U.S., I arrive a little more than three hours in advance. If I’m leaving out of Terminal 1, I always give myself some extra time because of the long indoor walk to the terminal from the Metro.

Now boarding? Photo: Akihitok1973

Why so much time in general? Lines. If you’ve spent some time in Madrid, you know that Spanish people embrace lines and they don’t get upset waiting in them. The airport is no exception. Security lines are a breeze compared to the check-in lines. The worst lines are for Ryanair flights when you’re checking baggage, or flights to Newark, JFK or any other U.S. destination. Prepare to wait for almost an hour to check in.

Once through security, check your watch. If you’ve taken my advice, you’ll most likely have time for a café con leche or a bit of browsing in the duty-free shops. Make sure to check the monitors, as there are no PA announcements to let you know that a flight is boarding.

3. Ready to board. Ready to wait in another line.

If you haven’t gotten used to lines by now, don’t worry: You’ll really understand the concept after you reach the boarding area. Don’t get nervous if you see a long line starting to form before boarding has begun. As I said before, the Spanish love lines. Most flights are still boarded by rows, but lines are customary.

4. The easy part: Arriving at Barajas

The difference between arriving and departing from Barajas is that, upon arrival you don’t have to wait in any lines! The only wait you’ll have is for your luggage. Terminal 4 has the longest luggage retrieval wait time.

If for some reason your bags don’t arrive, walk to the customer service desk (hopefully there isn’t a line). Here you give them your information, identify the brand and color of your luggage, fill out a form with your address and they’ll deliver it to you, for free.

5. Go to town!

Once you have your luggage, you can either take a cab, bus line 200 or the Metro. Again, I most always opt for the Metro. Take line 8 (pink) to “Nuevos Ministerios.” From there you can hop on Line 10 and be in the city center in about 10-15 minutes.

For more information about getting to the airport, check out our Madrid city guide.

Have you been to Barajas?

Have you recently flown into or out of Madrid’s airport? Tell us about your experience in the comments section.

About the author: Cynthia Kane is the editor of MAPMagazine.com, a Madrid travel e-zine, written by native English-speaking Madrid experts.

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A view of Lviv's Italian Courtyard. Photos © hidden europe

By Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries—

If Lviv were just 50 miles further west, it would be in the premier league of European tourist destinations. The problem is that while Poland oozes youthful chic from every cobblestone, Ukraine does not have the same hip reputation. Lviv’s attempts to style itself as the “the new Kraków” have yet to really bear fruit. While Kraków pulls the crowds, Lviv slumbers.

UNESCO honors

The two cities share a common history, both having been part of the Austro-Hungarian province of Galicia. And both have that same Italianate flair in their central squares and some of the surrounding courtyards. The center of Kraków was the very first place in Poland to be inscribed on the UNESCO List of World Heritage Sites. That was back in 1978. Lviv had to wait another 20 years to receive the same accolade.

What to see

The main square of Lviv

Lviv boasts a galaxy of fine churches and civic buildings. Must-sees include the Armenian Cathedral and the over-the-top baroque St. George’s Cathedral. The latter has served as the mother church of the Ukrainian Greek Catholic Church, which dominates religious affairs in western Ukraine. Its followers, often called Uniates, use Orthodox liturgies but are in union with Rome. It’s a detail that underlines the west European orientation of this part of Ukraine.

Above all, Lviv is a fine place just to wander. The Italian Yard, a sublime piece of Renaissance architecture with its balconies, is a spot to linger over coffee. Or head to Vysoky Zamok (Castle Hill) for sunset, when the view of the city takes on a dreamy quality. For a more macabre take on life (or death), don’t miss Lychakivsky Cemetery, a magnificent wooded parkland east of the city full of crumbling memorials to poets, philosophers and soldiers.

Where to stay

Lviv is happily very cheap. Get a place in a six-bed dorm at the Central Hostel, in a plum spot on the main square, for just 120 Ukrainian hryvnia. That’s about €12. Off-season is much cheaper. Or trade up to the George Hotel where the cheapest rooms are just €35 (including breakfast). The best of the hotels is definitely the Zamek Lewa (Lion’s Castle) in a leafy compound a 20-minute walk south of the center, which has doubles for €70 (including breakfast).

Beyond Lviv

The city is blessed with a great hinterland that is well worth exploring. Lviv Ecotour organizes day trips and longer tours for English-speaking visitors. Apart from nearby spots like the handsome town of Zhovka, the Carpathian wilderness beckons.

Ukraine is open for business. Holders of passports from CIS or EU States need no visa. Nor do US, Swiss, Canadian or Japanese citizens. You can fly directly into Lviv airport from Vienna, Venice, Warsaw, Munich and Dortmund. Or take the daily overnight train from Kraków.

About the authors: Nicky and Susanne run a Berlin-based editorial bureau that supplies text and images to media across Europe. Together they edit hidden europe magazine. You can read more of their writing in their regular e-brief and in the Notes section on their website.

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Taro Restaurant in Soho. Photo by Route79.

By Lara Kavanagh in London—

It is possible to get a cheap, value-for-money meal in London—even in one of its busiest neighborhoods. If you don’t mind brusque service, unassuming menus or slightly quirky surroundings, you’ll find plenty of budget-friendly gems in the heart of Soho.

Here’s a rundown of some reliable restaurants in Soho, suitable for the slimmest of wallets:

Trattoria da Aldo
51 Greek Street, W1D 4EH
Tel: 020 7437 3985
Open Monday to Saturday, lunch and dinner

The Trattoria da Aldo is a charming little Italian restaurant with checked tablecloths and wonky little booths. The traditional menu features a comforting carbonara with a liberal helping of cream and a very tasty lasagna. Bread and oil is served with everything, and a filling main costs around £6 to £11. Service is gruff but efficient, and it’s entertaining to listen to the old-timers and staff chatting in the back.

The Lorelei. Photo: The Justified Sinner

The Lorelei
21 Bateman Street, W1D 3AL
Tel: 020 7734 0954
Open Monday to Saturday

The eccentric little Lorelei is patronized by Soho veterans, vintage types, and savvy diners with an eye for a bargain. Simple pizzas (from about £6) are the main event, and you can bring your own booze. If you don’t mind the slightly oddball décor (note the mermaid mural on the wall) and furniture that’s seen better days, it’s a lot of fun.

Taro
10 Old Compton Street, W1D 4TF
Tel: 020 7439 2275
Web site
Open Daily

Taro is a reliable Japanese place in the bustling tail-end of the Old Compton stretch. You’ll get minimalist canteen-style surrounds, and tasty, straightforward Japanese food. A small bento box at £8.80 (washed down with an Asahi beer for £2.80) provides a perfectly substantial main meal. There’s another branch on Brewer Street.

The Stockpot. Photo: Ewan-M

The Stockpot
18 Old Compton Street, W1D 4TN
Tel: 020 7287 1066
Open Daily

Affordable breakfasts and lunches are the order of the day at this Soho institution without airs. It’s a traditional little English café that doesn’t appear to have changed in decades. No-frills service is accompanied by no-frills food, and it’s cheap (mains for around £5), filling and full of local characters.

Fish & Chips
20 Berwick Street, W1F 0PY
Tel: 020 7437 3280
Open daily

Fish and chips is as traditional as British cuisine gets, and this old-fashioned chippy doesn’t disappoint. Portions are huge (and cost around £6) and on Friday lunchtimes there’s a line out the door.

Papaya
14 St Anne’s Court, W1F 0BD
Tel: 020 7734 8994
Open Monday to Saturday

A healthier choice is this tiny Thai joint, which serves lunches (for around £5) to local office workers. Papaya does a very passable Pad Thai, served with or without peanuts and chili. There’s room for about 1.5 people to “dine in”, but otherwise it’s a strictly take-out affair.

Bodean’s
10 Poland Street, W1F 8PZ
Tel: 020 7287 7575
Web site
Open daily

A cheap and cheerful American-themed diner, Bodean’s serves up hearty meat and potato dishes at rock-bottom prices. Deals abound, such as ribs, pulled pork, and chicken, plus fries, coleslaw and a beer, all for £10. A shock for the arteries, maybe, but it will certainly sustain you for a big night out in Soho.

About the author: Lara Kavanagh is a travel editor and freelance writer based in London, and has also had the great pleasure of living in and writing about Paris. Top vintage shopping, great food and quirky nightlife are her favorite things about London.

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