Le Grenier de Notre Dame. Photo by ewanmcdowall.

By Liz Webber—

Going to a restaurant when you have some sort of dietary restriction can be difficult enough as it is, let alone when you’re in a foreign country where you may not speak the local language. Never fear, we’ll show you how to find restaurants in Paris where you can eat freely or simply communicate your circumstances “en français.”

Vegetarian/Vegan restaurants in Paris

Being a vegetarian in France is something of a punchline, and veganism is all but unheard of. However, there are some options for herbivores in Paris. A vegetarian friend of mine recommends Macéo (15 Rue des Petits Champs) and Brasserie Lutetia (45 Boulevard Raspail), both of which have vegetarian menus.

She further suggests using the website Happy Cow to search for restaurants in Paris. The site lists four vegan eateries, and includes several other vegetarian and veg-friendly options.

While it may not be “real” French cuisine, you can also try Asian restaurants, which may be more used to the idea of meat-less dishes. Check out the Chinese and Vietnamese places in Belleville in the 19th and 20th Arrondissements.

Celiac/Wheat-free dining in Paris

My dad is a celiac, so when he came to visit me he looked up gluten-free restaurants on CeliacHandbook.com. Le Charlain (23 Rue Clauzel) was on the list, and we enjoyed a great meal there – with a delicious flour-less chocolate cake for dessert.

Celiac disease is not as well-known in France as in places like Italy, but it is possible to find wheat-free dishes in most restaurants. Just tell your server, “Je suis allergique à la farine” (I’m allergic to flour). Stay away from mysterious sauces, and (depending on the restaurant’s recipe) you most likely won’t be able to eat the “frites,” either.

Disappointingly for my dad, we couldn’t find any bakeries in Paris that make gluten-free products. Naturalia, a chain of natural food stores, sells some wheat-free bread products, but they generally aren’t the same quality you’d find in the United States.

Lactose Intolerance and Other Allergies

Although the French are fond of cheeses and cream sauces, it should be easy to avoid dairy products in most Paris restaurants if you make your intolerance known. Simply say “J’ai une intolérance au lactose” (I’m lactose intolerant). Another option is to try kosher meat restaurants, such as those you would find in the neighborhood of the Rue des Rosiers.

Similarly, for other food allergies it’s just a matter of telling your server. Start with “Je suis allergique aux…” (I’m allergic to…). Some common allergy words include “noix” (nuts), “fruits de mer” (seafood), and “graines de sésame” (sesame seeds).

Tell Us

Are you a vegetarian, vegan, or have a food allergy? How was your experience eating out in Paris? Let us know!

Popularity: 5% [?]

Holiday decorations in the City of Lights. Photos by Theadora Brack.

By Theadora Brack in Paris—

I love Paris in the winter when it glitters. I love this city when it glows with countless strands of tiny white lights. It goes straight to my head! Getting in the mood for the holidays here is never difficult, but to help it happen, here are seven ways to light your Paris match. Come, Cheapos, follow me!

1. Twinkle: Bright lights, dig the city

First, take in the lights with a brisk stroll around town, and then warm up with “un vin chaud” or crack open a toasty crème brûlée out on the terrace of a lively bar or café. Forget about the elements. The glowing overhead braziers, impromptu sing-alongs, and people-watching will keep you warm. For the city’s official street-illumination map, click here.

Taking in the festive scene at a café

2. Tower: Bon Anniversaire, Madame Eiffel!

Continuing to celebrate her 120th birthday in style, la Tour Eiffel is not just sparkling for the usual five minutes on the hour, but she’s also encoring with a 12-minute super-cool LED light show nightly at 8, 9, 10, and 11 PM. My favorite spots for tower-gazing are just below Sacré Coeur at Rue Azaïs and rue Saint-Eleuthère, and beside the Palais de Tokyo.

Breaking News! For the first time ever, advance tickets for Eiffel Tower visits are now available online! Check out their booking site.

3. Window Shopping: Here comes the Hotstepper

Promenade up and down Boulevard Haussmann, while getting an eyeful of the grand magasins’ “vitrines de Noël” (holiday windows). This year, Chanel and Dior outfitted Printemps’ Russian-inspired windows, while rabbits, dollies, and bears (oh, my) cavort next door at Galeries Lafayette in tableaux by designers Gaultier, Kenzo, and Marc Jacobs.

The one-ring Cirque d’hiver Bouglione

Also, let’s not forget the smaller shops! Often restaurants, pâtisseries, boutiques, and even pharmacies hire artists to create whimsical murals. And keep your eyes peeled for neighborhood “concours de décorations de vitrines” (window decorating contests).

4. Holiday Circus: Time flies!

Treat yourself to an old-time spectacle at the one-ring Cirque d’hiver Bouglione (Metro: Oberkampf). Just think—Degas, Seurat, and Toulouse-Lautrec sat on these same red-velvet seats! Celebrating the 150-year anniversary of the flying trapeze, invented in 1859 by dashing acrobat Jules Léotard (thank him for creating the garment too!), this year the Bouglione circus family is paying homage to its roots with a “Festif” show, jammed-packed with traditional acts.

Tip: The seats in the very last row are just €10—but it’s worth every cent to be up close.

5. Ice Skating: Watch that figure!

Prepare for the 2010 Olympic Winter Games by taking a few spins around the ice rinks in front of the Hotel de Ville or Gare Montparnasse. Let Johnny be-Weir! The admission is free. Skate rental is €5, cash only. Know your European shoe size numbers. There’s no charge for sideline watching.

The decadent displays at l'épiceries Fauchon

6. Concert: The bells are ringing!

During the holidays, you’ll find no shortage of Vivaldi, Mozart, Chopin, Lizst, or Bach! Time is going to be your only issue. So pick up a copy of Pariscope, available at any newsstand or kiosk. The pocket-sized magazine covers the week’s happenings from theatre, cinema and arts, to music and restaurants. In it you’ll find a listing of free concerts and other holiday events. (Read about classical music discounts.)

Why, oh, why is l’église de la Madeleine my choice for classical concerts? Because, Cheapos, the tantalizing window displays of l’épiceries Fauchon are near!

7. Christmas Markets: What’s good for the goose

During the holidays, the winter markets, with their quaint boxes, tents, and chalets, are found in nearly every square. Follow the smell of “chaud les marrons” (chestnuts roasting on an open fire!). This is also the place to grab a quick hearty meal. Try the Alsatian “choucroute garnie” or the Belgian waffles. You’ll also find delectable regional specialties such as foie gras, honey, and champagne.

Tip: After marketing at the Saint-Germain-des-Prés Winter Village, meander over to the Bar du Marché at 75, rue de Seine, and clank a few with locals! Look for the candy-striped awning.

Happy Holidays, Cheapos! (And special thanks to Jessica Hines for the Cirque d’hiver photograph!)

Popularity: 7% [?]

Reims' Notre Dame Cathedral. Photo: RuiPereira

By Liz Webber—

Looking for an easy day trip from your Paris vacation? Why not visit Reims (oddly pronounced with a nasal “Ranse”), the coronation site of French kings and the epicenter of the Champagne region. Here we’ll explain how to get there and some suggested sights while you’re there–and where to get a great lunch for Cheapo prices!

Getting to Reims from Paris

From Paris’ Gare de l’Est, Reims is just 45 minutes on the TGV. The SNCF website is currently offering special fares of €34 roundtrip, but the journey normally runs €40-€50. For the return trip, beware of trains departing from “Champagne-Ardenne,” which is actually in Bezannes, about 3 miles away from Reims.

Historical Sights

Reims’ Notre Dame Cathedral, on the Place Cardinal Luçon, dates from the 13th Century. Thirty-two French kings were crowned at this cathedral, today a UNESCO World Heritage site. The church is open every day from 7:30 AM to 7:30 PM.

Next door, the Palais du Tau houses such artifacts as Charlemagne’s talisman and the chalice of Saint Remi, whose baptism of Clovis in 496 led to the conversion of the entire Frankish kingdom. From May 6 to September 8, the museum is open from 9:30 AM to 6:30 PM; from September 9 to May 5, opening hours are 9:30 AM to 12:30 PM and 2 PM to 5:30 PM. The palace is closed on Monday. Tickets are €7.

In Pommery's cellar. Photo by Éole

Speaking of Saint Remi, swing by the basilica that bears his name (Place Chanoine Ladame) to catch a glimpse of the saint’s tomb and the 12th-century stained glass windows. The basilica is open from 8 AM to 7 PM.

The Champagne Houses

Several of the biggest names in Champagne production–like Mumm, Veuve-Cliquot, and Taittinger–have cellars in Reims that tourists can visit to find out how bubbly is made.

A tour of the Pommery Estate is definitely worth the trip. Located at 5 Place Général Gouraud, it’s about a 30-minute walk from the cathedral. Several English-language tours are available throughout the day. The visit includes a trip down into 11 miles of labyrinthine cellar tunnels (originally Gallo-Roman chalk pits), and of course a glass of the good stuff at the end.

Tickets for the Pommery tour start at €10, depending on the quality of Champagne you’d like to sample and whether or not there is a special exhibit going on. While Pommery is one of the few cellars where advance bookings are not required, it can’t hurt to reserve your ticket before you go. From April through mid-November, the estate is open every day from 9:30 AM to 7 PM; from mid-November through March (excluding Christmas Eve through New Year’s Day) opening hours are 10 AM to 6 PM.

Where to Eat

There are plenty of restaurants in the center near Reims’ cathedral, but to get away from the touristy venues head to Les Charmes (11 Rue Brûlart) on the walk to the Pommery Estate. The three-course prix fixe lunch can’t be beat at €12.80. The menu varies, but you’ll find French-Asian fusion dishes like shrimp and quinoa salad and soy chicken with a potato pancake and tomatoes.

Popularity: 6% [?]

Sweets at the Musée Rodin Sculpture Garden. Photos by Theadora Brack.

By Theadora Brack in Paris—

Wake up! Wake up, you Cheapo-heads! Even in the City of Light, beating jet lag during the winter season is a difficult feat for most. Yes, the sun also rises, but not until late morning…

So to help out with jet lag in Paris, here’s an eye-opening walking tour with a sculptural twist, geared to jumpstart all six senses.

1. Food for thought

Start out at the Gérard Mulot Pâtisserie at 76 rue de Seine (Metro: Mabillon). Here you’ll find a bustling local crowd, service always with a smile, and a mind-boggling array of cakes, macaroons, and tartes that are gastronomical works of art.

With provocative names like “Miroir Passion”, “Sortilège” (”magic spell”), “Coeur Frivole”, and “Magie Noir”, the sweets will seductively compete for your attention. So keep your head and pace yourself. Take your time. Savor the moment. No one’s gonna kick you out. It’s Paris, after all.

The sweets on offer at Gérard Mulot Pâtisserie.

2. A free museum

Speaking of masterpieces, before waking the taste buds, pick up a little formidable inspiration at the Musée du Compagnonnage at 10, rue Mabillon (just around the corner from the pâtisserie).

Rarely mentioned in the guidebooks, this free museum is dedicated to the history of trade guilds and is packed with intricate scale models of staircases, belfries, domes, and pulpits—all created by master carpenters-in-the-making. After seeing what went into building all those Gothic towers and Baroque palaces, you’re bound to experience the city in a totally new light. (Open Monday through Friday, 2 PM to 6 PM.)

3. Dejeuner sur l’herbe (“Lunch on the Grass”)

Taking a cue from Manet, hotfoot it over to the Musée Rodin Sculpture Garden at 79, rue de Varenne. The walk should take you about 45 minutes, but with the architectural underpinnings whizzing by, it will feel like fifteen.

With your Mulot sweets beside you in the Rose Garden, you’ll be able to delight your tongue while feasting your eyes on Rodin’s chocolaty bronzes and sugary marbles (a comparison that even the artist himself was aware of; he sometimes called them his “patisseries”). And all for just one euro! (Closed Mondays.)

4. Designer scarf with a cause

A lion sculpture at Église Saint-Sulpice.

If it’s chilly out, pick up a striking red scarf at the boutique agnès b. on 6, rue Vieux- Colombier. Not only are they inexpensive (€15), but the proceeds also go to various humanitarian causes, including the fight against AIDS. Sold by designer Agnès Bourgois Troublé since 1988, you’ll find the unisex scarves (in lamb’s wool during the winter and cotton during the summertime) by the checkout register. Free gift-wrapping!

5. Heavenly rest at Saint-Sulpice

Finally, catch your breath by breaking with the lions outside the Église Saint-Sulpice before hanging with its Delacroix’s inside.

And all you DaVinci-Coders, don’t leave without walking the famous Rose Line (up near the altar). And if you’re lucky, you may be treated to the sounds of someone rehearsing on one of the finest organs in Europe, too. Talk about a moment to savor!

Cheapos, saisissez le jour! (P.S. Happy birthday, dad!)

Popularity: 6% [?]

Cheap secondhand books at Gilbert Jeune. Photo by ShimShamB.

By Liz Webber—

There are plenty of things to bring back from Paris, whether lasting or fleeting, that won’t eat up all your euros. Here are five of our suggestions for souvenirs that will remind you of la vie Parisien—for €5 or less.

1. Livre d’occasion from Gilbert Jeune

With outlets on both sides of the St. Michel fountain, the Gilbert Jeune bookstore both buys and sells books. That’s good news for Cheapos, since the store often resells the livres d’occasion (used books) at 50 percent or more off the original price. Find an extensive selection of discounted books on the top floor of the shop (the one on the left side when facing the fountain), whether your French reading level is Le Compte de Monte Cristo, Le Petit Prince, or Les Couleurs.

2. Bottle of wine from Nicolas

In France, pretty much all wine is good wine, even the cheapest bottles. Nicolas, a chain of wine stores, sells bottles in every price range, with plenty of decent vintages for less than €5. The salespeople are also helpful in assisting customers in finding the type of wine they want. The main Paris store is located at the Place de la Madeleine, though there are numerous outlets throughout the city.

3. Notebook from the Louvre

A mustard lover's dream. Photo: RoryRory

The Louvre museum store sells a number of small items, like postcards and bookmarks, for only a couple of euros. Why not take home a souvenir and start recounting your travels at the same time with a notebook featuring the Mona Lisa on the cover?

4. Checkered scarf

No matter what the weather, a checkered scarf is part of the uniform of many Parisian boys (and girls!). The kitschy tourist shops you’ll find on virtually every corner in central Paris sell various scarves and pashminas, many of which are €5 or less. Check out the kids on the street for hints on how to wear your new scarf!

5. Mustard from Maille

The Maille store at 6 Place de la Madeleine in the 8th Arrondissement is a mustard-lover’s dream, with dozens of flavors you won’t find elsewhere, like cassis (black currant), basil or peach. There are a couple of different size jars that won’t empty your wallet, though you can splurge on a multi-pack gift set or one of the mustards “on tap” that come in refillable crocks.

Your Cheapo Paris souvenirs

Did you come home from your European vacation with a neat souvenir that cost less than €5? Tell us about it in the comments section!

Popularity: 8% [?]

Tour the newly remodeled Printemps. Photos by Theadora Brack.

By Theadora Brack in Paris—

Les Musées de Paris aren’t the only ones in the city getting a “little work” done these days. Following suit, why, even the Printemps Haussmann, the grand department store, has begun to enter the final phases of an extreme makeover!

Check out the atrium.

Now sporting a chic modern look that nevertheless manages to pay homage to her expansive Belle Époque days, Printemps’ new three-level atrium is finally open to the public. Window lickers (as the French call window shoppers—”lèche-vitrine”) of the world, unite.

Heads up, Cheapos! A special unveiling of the store’s newly-restored façade, along with its notorious holiday window displays, happens on November 12, 2009. And there are still more wonders are yet to come!

Équipe (”team”) effort

On the case is the Canadian architectural firm Yabu Pushelberg. (Toronto duo George Yabu and Glenn Pushelberg were also responsible for New York City’s Tiffany & Co. Wall Street, Neiman Marcus, and Bergdorf Goodman’s impressive good looks.) No holds were barred, as roughly €70 million have been poured into Printemps’ extensive interior and exterior revamping. The rest of the project’s completion is slated for spring 2010.

A rather large bag.

Like a dream

Meanwhile you’ll be dazzled by the recently installed super-cool (and eco-friendly) LED lighting system that illuminates and opens up the heart of the store: the center atrium. Resembling an oversized Lucite box, this pleasing eye candy is decked out in slick marble, sleek bands of iced chrome, and live trees that sprout multi-colored handbags. Ma joie!

Jutting out between the bustling, zigzagging escalators are towering cubbyholes (three stories high) stuffed with shiny fab accessories, just enough out of reach to tantalize. But one can always dream, can’t one?

Don’t skip the loo, my darlings

Check out “the first luxury public toilets” by Point WC (as touted on their website). One euro buys you private seating in a water closet lit by rose-colored lights, and handsomely stocked with shocking fluorescent toilet tissues in pinks, greens, and blues.

Skip to the loo!

You can’t miss the €1800 price tag for the commode, but happily you don’t have to buy it to experience it! Cosmetics for touch-ups, souvenir rolls of toilet tissue, and even beverages are available at the Point WC welcome desk.

Yes, I know, life is good–and with flattering lighting to boot. So make a beeline! Stopping by the loo has never been more fun or stylish! (BTW, you’ll also find a Point WC at the Carrousel du Louvre.)

About the author: Theadora Brack is a writer working in Paris. Her fiction has appeared in more than 30 literary publications, including 3AM International, The Smoking Poet, Beloit Fiction Journal, Mid-American Review, and the Haight-Ashbury Literary Journal.

Popularity: 6% [?]

The SNCF station at Charles de Gaulle airport.

By Liz Webber–

As Cheapos know, it’s almost always less expensive to buy train tickets directly through the website of a country’s national rail service rather than through RailEurope’s English-language site or overseas agents, especially for France’s TGV system. Fares can also be cheaper booking online than buying the tickets in person at the station.

However, booking a ticket in another language can be intimidating. France’s SNCF website is fairly easy to navigate, but if your French doesn’t extend much beyond “Parlez-vous anglais?” use this cheat sheet to book day trips from Paris or crisscross the country!

Step 1: Choose where and when you’re going

The SNCF homepage. Be strong!

On the SNCF homepage, there is a box on the left-hand side for quickly booking trains. First, enter the “départ” (where you’re ”departing” from) and “arrivée” (where you’ll be “arriving”).

Next choose your departure date in the box next to “Aller le” (”going the…”) and return date in the box next to “Retour le” (”returning the…”). If it’s a one-way journey (“aller-simple”) leave the return date blank. Note that the dates follow the European format of DD/MM/YYYY.

Also choose your desired departure time for both directions (“à partir de” means “starting from”). Remember that these times will be written in standard 24-hour format.

Specify how many people will be traveling using the drop-down menu next to “Adultes” (adults), and select either first or second class.

For direct trains only (without transfers), click the box marked “trajets directs.” Then hit the orange “Rechercher” (”search”) button to begin searching for tickets.

Note: Under the search box, you’ll notice a tempting array of little flags. If you’re already feeling a bit nervous, you’ll understandably be drawn to the English flag. Sure, clicking it will change the language to English–but it will also send all results through RailEurope, a helpful agency for foreign tourist that usually adds a substantial mark-up to ticket prices.

Step 2: Select your tickets

Now a page will open with options for the first half of your journey. Prices can vary greatly depending on the travel time and the day of the week, and only reflect half the cost of the total journey for a round-trip ticket (“aller-retour”). However, when booking for more than one person at a time the price reflects the total cost for all tickets.

The box at the top shows all the options at a glance, from which you can then scroll down to select the one that best fits your specifications. Tickets are color-coded by price range, whereby orange designates the cheapest fares, blue more moderate fares, and gray the most expensive.

When you check one of the circles to choose a ticket, a so-small-you-might-miss-it box pops up underneath all the options for that departure time that says “Choisir Ma Place” (“Choose My Seat”). From the drop-down menu, specify if you’d like to sit “à côté de” (next to) a particular seat, or simply give a preference for “fenêtre” (window) or “couloir” (aisle). Pretty much all trains in France have assigned seats, so be sure to keep that in mind when you go to board.

Note: If you’ve selected an “iDTGV” train, you will be permitted to choose your “ambiance.” “iDzap” is a train friendly to portable electronics, DVDs, cellphones, etc., while ”iDzen” restricts electronics, cellphones, and anything that makes noise.

Be careful of tickets marked only “non échangeable” (non-exchangeable) or “non remboursable” (non-refundable), though most fares cannot be exchanged or refunded “après départ” (after departure). Certain tickets must be paid for online and printed at home – if so the fine print will read “Paiement en ligne. Billet à imprimer vous-même” (”Online payment. Print your own ticket.”)

Once you have figured out what time you want to leave and have chosen your seat, click the orange box directly underneath marked “Valider cet aller” (”Validate this part of the trip”). Make sure you hit the right one!

You’ll then go through the same process again for the return journey. Again, remember that the price is for one way of the journey.

Step 3: Payment

On the following page, confirm that all parts of your journey are correct then click “Valider votre réservation” (”Validate your reservation”) to proceed.

Next come three questions before the actual payment.

IMPORTANT: Since the majority of SNCF ticket machines do not accept American credit cards, be sure to click “Gare ou boutique” (”Rail station or boutique”) for question 1 in order to pick up your tickets from a ticket window at the station. Also note that if you’re booking an iDTGV (as pictured), you will only be given the option of printing your own ticket.

Question 2 requires the input of a “civilité” (”title”), “nom” (”LAST name”), “prénom” (”FIRST name”) and e-mail address for confirmation purposes.

Under question 3, check the box to indicate that you agree with the SNCF terms and conditions. Then click “Valider votre commande” (”Validate your order”).

Finally, it’s time to enter your credit card information. Note: The card you use to book must be presented to pick up your tickets, so be sure to use the card that you’ll be taking with you on your trip.

After entering all your data, hit the “valider” button one last time to complete the transaction. A screen should pop up with your confirmation code, which will also be sent in an email along with your itinerary. Print either for your records and to bring with you when you collect your tickets.

Step 4: Picking up your tickets

Now comes the easy part! Simply head to your departure station with your credit card and booking number to get your tickets. Many SNCF agents even speak English and so can help you make any changes to your reservation and get you to where you’re supposed to be.

Departure tracks are usually announced 20-30 minutes before the train is scheduled to leave, so be sure to leave enough time to pick up your tickets and figure out where you need to go. And don’t forget to stamp your ticket in the machine by the track before getting on the train!

Bonus tip: Reserve now, pay later

The SNCF website lets you reserve a ticket online without paying for it in advance or even giving a credit card. On the pre-payment page, instead of clicking “Gare ou boutique” under question 1 hit “Option.” The red text lets you know the date and time by which you need to confirm your reservation (usually 24 or 48 hours before departure), and you’ll receive an email with a booking code.

If you’re not sure what your schedule will be like or don’t want to give out your information online, reserve your seat then bring your confirmation number to the station before departure to pick up and pay for your tickets.

Popularity: 13% [?]

Drink your coffee with the locals at the bar. Photos by Theadora Brack.

By Theadora Brack in Paris–

Being “frugalicious” whilst painting the City of Light red need not be a chore.  In fact, I often find in Paris that the very act of pinching pennies actually enhances the overall experience (said not in a Polly Anna sort of way, I assure you!).

Here are five of my favorite tricks for saving a buck, er, euro. In the words of my grandmother Helen J. Wentz, Cheapos, “It all adds up!”

1.  Stand up, stand up!

Order (”take”) your morning (or anytime) café while standing at the bar in the café. Not only will this give you an opportunity to get down and gossipy with the locals and the apron-clad wait staff, but it’s also cheaper!

Amount saved: About one euro per espresso. Bar perspective with the in-crowd?  Priceless.

2. Solid as a rock

Someone is "fidèle" to Yves Rocher.

Who says money can’t buy you love? Certainly not the French. Repeat business is highly valued and often rewarded with a “carte de fidélité” (fidelity card). Restaurants, shops, and even hotels give them out to their patrons as a way of saying thanks and “come again soon.”

Looking very much like a business card, each time you make a purchase, the card gets hand-stamped or punched, soon adding up to super discounts or delicious prizes! Didn’t receive one? Just ask. It will be taken as a compliment, and a signal that you’ll be back. (Tip: Often the cards don’t have expiration dates, and can be used for years.)

Amount saved: 10% to 30% off transactions. Solid friendships and the proof of commitment? Priceless.

3.  ”Un carnet, s’il vous plait!” (A 10-pack, please!)

For the love of sanity, don’t buy your Metro tickets (good for both the bus and Metro) one or two at a time. Purchase a “carnet” (10-pack)!  With a thick stack of tickets in your hot little hand, you’ll not only save about €5 over the single-ticket price, but you’ll also be able to focus on more pressing matters like shopping, museums, and most importantly, food!

Amount saved: €5 per 10 rides. Skipping the line of ticket buyers? Priceless.

4.  Picnique with a view

Order take-out from a restaurant. ”Avez-vous des plats pour emporter?” (”Do you have take-out dishes?”) is your key phrase. 

All restaurants, of course, don’t offer this option, but often they do, especially ethnic restaurants (Asian, African, Mediterranean, and so on). You’ll save 10-15% off the total bill, since there’s no service fees or value-added taxes.

Amount saved: 10-15% off total bill. Slurping Pad Thai (à la “Lady and the Tramp” style) with your beloved on the steps of Sacre Coeur with the city twinkling below? At twilight? You guessed it… Priceless.

5.  Make that beer ”un demi”

Double your pleasure, but not the bill.  Beer lovers, take heed: Often the total cost of two short 25 cl beers is less expensive than one tall 50 cl beer. Stop scratching your head and order up “un demi” straight away. “Je voudrais un demi, s’il vous plaît” are the magic words.

Amount saved: About one euro per beer. Unwinding with two demi’s of pale ale after a long day of sight seeing? Ab-so-sipping-lutely priceless!

About the author: Theadora Brack is a writer working in Paris. Her fiction has appeared in more than 30 literary publications, including 3AM International, The Smoking Poet, Beloit Fiction Journal, Mid-American Review, and the Haight-Ashbury Literary Journal.

Popularity: 8% [?]

Air France announced today that the airline will start charging $50 (or €50, depending on point of departure) for passengers’ second checked bags, for economy passengers flying between the United States and Europe.

The new baggage policy will take effect with tickets issued after November 1, 2009. Previously, passengers were allowed to check two bags, free of charge.

Here is the new policy, as announced by Air France:

Effective with tickets issued November 1, 2009, Air France will introduce a revised baggage policy for customers traveling in Economy Class between the US and Europe including Algeria, Morocco and Tunisia (see complete list below*). Passengers will be able to check one bag, weighing up to 50 pounds (23 kilos), free of charge. If passengers would like to check a second bag, with the same maximum weight allowance, they may do so for a fee of $50 for all flights departing from the US or 50 Euros for all flights departing from Europe. Additionally, the fee for checked bags weighing between 50 and 70 pounds (23 to 32 kilos) will increase from 50 dollars or Euros to 100 dollars or Euros. Beyond the second checked bag, additional bags of the same maximum weight will be charged 200 dollars or Euros.**

Thus, Cheapos, really think twice before checking a second bag. If you’re flying between the US and Paris, that bag will end up costing you $125 — $50 to get it to Paris and $75 (or 50 euros) to get it home.

Popularity: 4% [?]

The Picasso Museum is closed through 2012. Photo by Madhatrk.

By Liz Webber—

As is true for museums in all cities, it’s sometimes necessary for museums in Paris to shut their doors for renovations or just to get the works back in peak condition. But what’s a Cheapo to do when that happens during your visit?

Though these three museums and museum wings may be closed for the time being, here are some ways to enjoy a similar experience in Paris.

Musée Picasso

Picasso Museum. Photo by Jane VC.

Due to a huge renovation project, the Musée Picasso remains closed until 2012. That’s a long time! The museum plans to host exhibits and other cultural events elsewhere, but no details are yet available.

Those looking for a Picasso fix can visit the Musée de l’Orangerie (pictured above) in the Jardin des Tuileries, which houses a dozen of the artist’s works (open every day except Tuesday from 9 AM to 6 PM). Admission costs €7.50, and is free on the first Sunday of the month.

The Centre George Pompidou also has a few Picassos in its permanent collection (open every day except Tuesday from 11 AM to 9 PM). Tickets cost €10-12, but like the Musée de l’Orangerie, admission is free on the first Sunday of the month.

It doesn’t much help Cheapos traveling to Paris, but a touring exhibit of some of the Picasso Museum’s collection is planned for several countries, kicking off at the Ateneum Art Museum in Helsinki and making stops in Moscow, St. Petersburg, Seattle, New York and San Francisco.

The Catacombs

Paris' catacombs. Photo by Adam Baker.

As a result of a serious act of vandalism, the Paris Catacombs – a massive underground mausoleum created in the 18th Century which houses the remains of some 6 million Parisians – is currently closed indefinitely. (We’ve heard that minor vandalism has long been a problem at the Catacombs. The seemingly random pile of bones near the exit is actually a stack of the artifacts visitors have tried to take home with them.)

While not quite as spine-tingling, another quirky museum that will take you under the city streets is a tour of the Paris sewer system. The hour-long visit gives a history of the city’s water distribution and removal, including the various pumps and engines used throughout the past several hundred years. The entrance to the sewers is located across from 93 Quai d’Orsay. The museum is open Saturday to Wednesday from 11 AM to 4 PM between October 1 and April 30, and closes at 5 PM between May 1 and September 30. Tickets cost €4.30.

For a taste of the macabre, you can also can check out the Centquatre art center (104 Rue d’Aubervilliers). Tours every other Sunday at 3 PM explain its history as the city’s centralized funeral home. The tour costs €5.

The Islamic art wing at the Louvre

Beyond tourist pleasers like the Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo, the Louvre has an excellent collection of Egyptian and Near Eastern artifacts. Part of that includes an extensive display of Islamic art, which unfortunately remains off limits to the public until construction of its new home is completed in 2010. The new wing has been called “the most radical architectural addition since Pei’s glass pyramid.”

In the meantime, visitors can enjoy an exhibition of Islamic art at the Institute of the Arab World, which features manuscripts, tapestries, glassware and ceramics, jewelry and mosaics from Muslim nations across the globe. The Institute is located at 1 Rue des Fossés Saint-Bernard. The expo is open Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday from 10 AM to 6 PM; Thursday until 10 PM; and weekends and bank holidays until 8 PM. Admission to the exhibition, which runs through March 14, 2010, costs €10.50. For an extra freebie, head up to the roof for a great view of the city.

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