Czech Spa Town: Karlovy Vary
Highlights: stylish spa town; gorgeous architecture; historical break
Duration: eight to twelve hours
Exertion level: low to moderate
Accessible by: bus, train
We hate to be predictable, but Karlovy Vary can't really be beaten. The Czech Republic's best known spa town, Karlovy Vary has a lot to offer visitors, whether they be spa-oriented or architecture hounds.
In a country that values its spa towns, Karlovy Vary rises above the pack. It's a city with a grand aristocratic tradition. Today, its streets are filled with rich Germans and Russians in town to take the waters.
You can join them, of course, for day sessions that range from mudbaths to complicated therapeutic procedures to simply sitting in mineral-rich waters. None of it comes particularly cheaply, unfortunately.
Alternately, you can explore Karlovy Vary's churches, which include a Russian Orthodox house of worship. Also interesting is the monument to Karl Marx, less out of place in these one-time aristocratic stomping grounds than you might think. Marx spent time here, as did a dizzying list of creative and wealthy types.
As much as we love trains, the best way to get from Prague to Karlovy Vary is by bus. A bus journey should take just over two hours, and it will cost about CZK384 for a round-trip ticket. Buses for Karlovy Vary (and, for the record, most buses for most destinations) leave from Florenc Bus Station. It is possible to take a train between Prague and Karlovy Vary, but it takes almost twice as long.
For more information, visit Karlovy Vary's official municipal and tourism site.
Second City Syndrome: Brno
Highlights: small Old Town; modern architecture; arts scene
Duration: eight to twelve hours
Exertion level: low
Accessible by: bus, train
The Czech Republic's second biggest city, Brno, is a far cry from Prague's magic rooftops and picturesque Old Town. Brno is a modern city that seems more in line with the bold Eastern Bloc aesthetics of the 1960s than the classic, wistful beauty of Prague.
OK, we exaggerate a bit. Indeed, Brno has a gorgeous Old Town. It's just that Brno is not as densely packed and self-consciously gorgeous as Prague.
What Brno does have is that second city edge. Brno recognizes that Prague is bigger and more impressive, yet it proceeds to be dynamic and ambitious on its own terms. The museum scene is particularly noteworthy. Brno contains a number of national museums, as well, like the Museum of Romani (Gypsy) Culture and Design Centre of the Czech Republic.
In light of such institutions, it's not a shock that Brno has a vibrant arts scene. And while the Old Town is full of stunning old buildings, the city's modern architecture is truly outstanding. Villa Tugendhat, designed by Mies van der Rohe, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
It's quicker to take the bus than the train between Prague and Brno. The bus takes two hours and 15 minutes, and the train takes three hours. Expect to pay around CZK325 for a round-trip journey.
The city of Brno has a beautiful and easily navigable site. See also the Brno Tourist Information Centre site.
Bohemian Beer Stop: Plzen
Highlights: nonstop beer bust; city strolls; religious sites
Duration: five to ten hours
Exertion level: low to moderate
Accessible by: train, bus
Plzen is the birthplace of pilsner lager. Beer is Plzen, and Plzen is beer. This is the most significant fact about Plzen. It's a beer town like no other.
Another way to express this fact is to say that while Plzen's attractions are not limited to beer, the city's lager-based history and present comprise its biggest single attraction. In addition to the Pilsner Urquell brewery, Plzen also has an exceptional Brewery Museum, as well as inviting beer bars. The city also boasts Plzen Historical Underground, a set of preserved tunnels used historically for brewing and stashing beer.
For the beer-neutral, Plzen features a number of other attractions. Rather surprisingly, it contains the massive Great Synagogue, among the world's biggest synagogues. You can also find an awe-inspiring 13th-century Gothic church in Plzen. The church includes a tower that rises over the city dramatically.
To top it all off, Plzen's Old Town is picturesque. Much of the Old Town is encircled by gardens, especially inviting during the summer. Outside the Old Town, Plzen is a fairly unremarkable, industrial, modern city.
For more information about Plzen, check out the city's official municipal pages .
It's a ninety minute journey from Prague to Plzen by train. The round-trip journey costs about CZK300.
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