Archive for May, 2008

Flip-through: Cheapo tips, Italian tourists, Venice pigeons, & American frogs!

Friday, May 9th, 2008

stmarcospigeons1.jpg

Six recent stories that made us smile and chased away the rain:

1) 5 ways to get even cheaper in Europe

Christopher Cook, of noambit.com, posts this week in Vagabondish about “5 simple ways to beat your travel budget.” His tips are solid and speak to every Cheapo in Europe. In short: Eat cheaply, walk, be flexible with dates, consider more budget-friendly destinations, and think twice before paying for a museum. Nice tips, Chris!

2) 33-cent beers in Vietnam

We don’t normally cover destinations outside of Europe, but we’re following former EuroCheapo staffer TJ DiChristopher as he showcases his skills in Saigon, his new hometown. Today, TJ shares five ways he’s keeping it cheap in Saigon, from budget beer to iced green tea and pirated movies.

3) Italian tourists in Venice

Venice is really crowded right now. According to About.com’s James Martin who was in the canaled city last Saturday, Venice’s narrow streets are packed to overflowing. But with whom? Italians, who were celebrating the May Day weekend (a national holiday). Martin heard mostly the native language being spoken, and hardly any English. Just watch which boat you get on, James!

4) Hungry pigeons in St. Mark’s Square?

Speaking of Venice, Elisabetta Povoledo reported yesterday in the International Herald Tribune that the city has outlawed pigeon feeding in St. Mark’s Square. It turns out that the practice has been banned in the rest of the city for the past 11 years (who knew?), but had been allowed in St. Mark’s because of its iconic, photogenic role in the city’s history (and tourism trade). The result: Protesting birdseed sellers and a switch to feeding the birds potato chips. (We’ve heard that the switch hasn’t Ruffled any feathers…)

5) Daria Werbovy!

Thanks to Holly for correctly identifying the model in the new H&M ad across the street from our office. We couldn’t identify her when she was just a forehead… and, it now turns out, for good reason! Nice job, Holly. We’re sending out your copy today of the Rough Guide to Europe on a Budget.

6) American destinations from Smithsonian

Again, we don’t typically cover non-European locales, but we are loving this month’s (May 2008) issue of Smithsonian Magazine. The mag’s theme is “Destination America”. To croak—er name—a few stories: short takes on The Frog Festival in Rayne, Louisiana, the Chicago blues fest, and a fabulous feature on Acadia Country.  

Have a great weekend, Cheapos.

Krakow Museums: One freebie a day

Thursday, May 8th, 2008

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Photo courtesy of Jeremy Barnett 

Poland is a country rich with history, and if you can experience it for free—all the better! Here’s a guide to a week of free museums. No need to spend a zloty to experience a wealth of Krakow’s art and history. 

Monday: Old Synagogue
24 Szeroka Street in Kazimierz

One of Europe’s most historic Jewish places of worship, the Old Synagogue is located in Krakow’s Jewish district, Kazimierz. It is an extension of the City of Krakow’s Historical Museum, and is considered the quintessential Jewish monument of Krakow. As such, it’s filled with relics of Kazimerz’s past including religious items, historic photos, and documents.

Tuesday: Museum of Municipal Engineering
15 Sw. Wawrzynca Street in Kazimierz

If you’re into gizmos and gadgets, then this museum is for you. The space feels like a virtual time machine into innovations past. Take in the old vehicles and other means of public transportation that date back to the early 1900s and explore technology’s impact on everyday life over the last two centuries.

Wednesday: Tourism Board

There’s a reason they call it “hump” day, folks. Take a break from museum wandering and check out Krakow’s tourism board web site for listings of free events. On the way, pick up a few paczki (pronounced poonch-keys). What a difference a day, and a doughnut, make!
                                                                                                                                                                          

Thursday: Czartoryski Palace Museum
19 Sw. Jana Street in Nowy Swiat

The Czartoryski is Krakow’s treasure trove of exhibitions. Founded in 1796 by Princess Isabella (credited with the motto “The Past to the Future”) the museum is most famous for housing Leonardo Da Vinci’s “Lady With An Ermine” along with Rembrandt’s “Landscape with the Good Samaritan”, and many more artifacts from the 13th to 16th centuries.

Friday: Dom Slaski (aka The Silesian House)
2 Pomorska Street just outside of Nowy Swiat

This museum is free everyday of the week (bonus!), but after all your other museum-hopping, you only have Friday left! First used as a Gestapo police headquarters, the Dom now hosts exhibits about World War II martyrdom and anti-nazi resistance. Admission itself is free, but it’ll cost a little extra if you want to take pictures.

Saturday: City of Krakow History Museum
35 Rynek Glowny in the Old Quarter

A patriotic little building proudly boasting the history of Krakow and its citizens, the History Museum has a compilation of old maps, documents, pictures, and city stamps. Its most appealing feature is a collection of colorful and intricate Krakow Christmas Cribs or szopkas.

Sunday: Archeology and Ethnography Museum
3 Poselska Street in the Old Quarter

Once used as a prison in medieval times, the Archeology and Ethnography Museum is home to the only known representation of a Slovanic deity, a four-faced 8-foot stone idol of Swiatowit. In addition, the museum always has a number of permanent and temporary displays.

Bonus Sunday: Museum of History of Photography
16 Jozefitów Street just outside of Nowy Swiat

Filled with exhibitions of present and past photography, daguerreotypes, cameras, and photo equipment, the Museum of History of Photography is a must-see for the still image artist-at-heart.

Paris Cheap Eats: 8 best spots for a picnic

Wednesday, May 7th, 2008

Where to picnic in Paris

When the weather turns warm, Parisians picnic. Sure, some stray as far as the terrace of their corner café, but many flock to parks, gardens and river-side quais to enjoy their beloved city. For cheapos, picnics have the added advantage of being easy on the budget.

Here are our steps for procuring and perfecting the Parisian picnic.

When in Paris, stock up like the French do!

Pick up your must-haves in this order. Hit up the corner boulangerie for bread, then visit the fromagerie for cheese. Next stop? A traiteur where quiches, terrines, salads and other prepared foods are the mainstay. And of course the marchand de vin for an inexpensive, but lovely bottle of wine—and, finally, the pâtisserie for some fabulous desserts. Even better, hit a weekly neighborhood outdoor food market, where you can actually barter with the sellers and snag everything in one trip. Check for days and hours.

Pick a picnic spot, but not any spot.

We have some favorites. In no particular order… 

La Cour Carrée at the Louvre (1st arrondissement): This enclosed courtyard at the eastern end of the Louvre is a fabulous spot for a petit répos. At any time of day, large, flat benches—free for the taking—are bathed in sun, and in the evening the museum’s lighting stunningly showcases the surrounding building’s architecture. Hang out and listen to musicians and performers, who play under the arches and near the fountain at the square’s center. There’s no better antidote to a busy day of sightseeing.

Pont des Arts (1st and 6th arrondissement): Exit the Cour Carrée’s south (river) side, and you’ll find yourself facing the Pont des Arts, a pedestrian bridge that turns into a sunset lovers’ rendez-vous on summer evenings. Views in all directions show off Paris’ sightseeing highlights. Here, you are perfectly poised to enjoy views of most every major Paris monument. Don’t forget the champagne!

Jardin du Palais Royal (1st arrondissement): Central Paris’ hidden gem is the Jardin. Even those who know its location can struggle to find an entrance through the arcades. The easiest way we’ve found is through Place Colette, by the Palais Royal Musée du Louvre metro station. The peaceful gardens, fountains and historic buildings surrounding the square are breathtaking.

The quais on Sunday (1st and 4th arrondissement): On Sundays, Paris’ river quais are closed to traffic and open to strollers, bikers, roller bladers-and, you guessed it: picnickers. One favorite stretch-out site is the grassy, tree-lined spot on the right bank facing Ile Saint-Louis. Sit back, relax and enjoy the sights.

Ile Saint-Louis (4th arrondissement): The banks of Ile Saint-Louis rank as one of Paris’ most romantic spots to set up for an evening apéritif. Join locals sipping champagne and watching the Bateaux Mouches pass as the sun sinks behind the Seine. The most coveted spot is at the western-most tip of the island (with views of Hôtel de Ville and Ile de la Cité). To get down to the river bank, take any of the stairways from the street.

Square Jean XXIII behind Notre Dame (1st arrondissement): This lovely garden behind the famous cathedral is much quieter than the touristy square in front, with arguably just as good a view. Shaded benches and impressive rose and flower beds make it a nice pause point before or after an encounter with church-visiting crowds. It’s also convenient to Ile Saint-Louis.

Square Tino Rossi (5th arrondissement): Enter from Quai Saint Bernard where a pedestrian path runs down to the river just after Pont de Sully and you’ll find one of Paris’ prettiest Seine views, facing Ile Saint-Louis and the back spires of Notre Dame. This park has a lively evening outdoor music and dance scene. Watch a tango lesson, or better yet join in!

Rue de Seine, square G. Pierne (6th arrondissement): This is a convenient little stopping point to quickly eat purchases from rue de Seine’s nearby boulangeries and to-go sandwich shops. Don’t miss the whimsical design of the benches in the form of open books.

About the author: Jamie Cahill is author of The Pâtisseries of Paris, a guide to the city’s bakeries, chocolatiers, ice cream parlors, tea salons and other spots for a light bite. A lifelong dessert lover, Cahill spent four years indulging her sweet tooth in Paris before relocating to London.

Contest follow-up: We’re still wondering who she is!

Monday, May 5th, 2008

Thanks to all the Cheapos who have contributed guesses in our “name that celebrity” mystery photo quiz posted last week. Gazing out our window at Broadway and Houston in New York, we wondered who was getting painted by billboard artists on the wall across the way.

Five days later, we’re still wondering…and she’s almost done! 

Really, who IS she?

There was speculation a-plenty when she was only a forehead, including, notably: Janet Jackson, Beyonce, Tyra Banks, and Chelsea Clinton. But today, with her body fully painted (save a bit of forearm), we’re still shaking our heads. (The photo above was taken at 5 PM Monday.)

Is it possible that (gasp!) H&M is using an unknown model for this billboard? Could she be a no-name? Just another pretty face with an interesting nose and a spray tan?

In any case, we’ll be giving away a book to somebody. We just have to settle the matter first. Stay tuned. And keep guessing!

Free Amsterdam: Gardens, art, ferries, conversation

Monday, May 5th, 2008

Amsterdam Rijksmuseum garden

Looking for ways to save some euros while visiting Amsterdam? Here are five suggestions:

Try some flower power.

Visiting the masterpieces at the Rijksmuseum will set you back €10, but the baroque and renaissance gardens behind it are free to stroll. Delight in the fountains, statues, and the carefully coiffed hedges and plants. The gardens are open daily from 9 am to 6 pm. Baroque gardens are closed on the weekends.

(Note: The Rijksmuseum is undergoing extensive renovations that are scheduled to last until 2010. Until then, visitors may visit a scaled down “best of” collection entitled ”The Masterpieces.”)

Pick up a passport to paintings. 

Speaking of the Rijksmuseum, we’re flying high about the joint venture between the museum and Amsterdam’s Schipol Airport. The Rijksmuseum Amsterdam Schipol, an art space at the airport maintained by the museum, offers annual exhibits free of charge. This year, an impressive collection of Van Gogh paintings is on display. The gallery is just behind the passport control desks—and is open from 7 am to 10 pm. So, get your stamp and your art on!

Go Dutch!

Ever wondered how to say “ham sandwich” in Dutch? (The answer is broodje ham).  Why not sign up for a local chat buddy and learn even more? Check out the University of Amsterdam’s Web site and bulletin board to find a partner in conversation. Or, just try Craigslist. Our friends over at Trippist recommend the Student Language Exchange too. What better way to connect with Dutch culture than to go, quite literally, Dutch!

Park  yourself.

It’s no secret that Amsterdam has some of the prettiest and most extensive parks. Our favorites include Vondelpark and Beatrixpark. For more space and to catch a game of Frisbee, try Vondel. Another Vondel bonus? Free concerts abound, especially during the summer months. Beatrix is your best bet for quiet and quaint. Relax on a blanket, pull out a good book, and prepare to catch some rays and shut eye.

Go over the river.

Since Amsterdam’s touristy canal tours can get pricey, we recommend the free ferry (about a 5-minute ride) from Central Station (the Ruyterkade) over the River IJ. We admit, the tour isn’t long, but it offers a great view of Amsterdam’s shoreline and lets visitors fully appreciate Amsterdam’s rich port and shipping trade history. Ferries leave every 7.5 minutes between 6:30 am and 11 pm daily; every quarter hour at other times of day.

If you’ve rented a bike, spend the day on the other side, touring the countryside and nearby small villages of Monnickendam, Marken, and Volendam. Cycling maps are available at all of Amsterdam’s bike shops (read more about this countryside bike tour).

Flip through: Roman lunch, London Cheapo tips, Athens in a hurry

Friday, May 2nd, 2008

Some items of note that flashed across our screen this week…

Cheap eats in Roma

It turns out we’re not the only ones blogging this week about cheap eats in Rome (read our post). Budget Travel’s blog is talking up cheap lunches in the Eternal City. Erica Firpo writes from Rome that we should say “Basta! to pasta” and reach for something a little less filling for lunch. She recommends picking up some triangular tramezzino. We’ll take two.

From Stansted for £4? 

Checking in with “Less Than a Shoestring,” poetloverrebelspy has landed in London and is full of Cheapo-advice. First off, book that coach trip from Stansted into the city early, and use either easyBus or Terravision. On easyBus it’s possible to snag a seat (booked in advance) for as low as £4.25 each way!

Furthermore, we’re reminded that the Tate Modern and Tate Britain are not only free, but they offer free guided tours. Join in!

Dinner in London for £5 

Meanwhile, Olivia from “High Culture on a Low Budget” is thinking London budgets, too. In this week’s installment of “Ask a Local“, she asks Mike from London where he would find dinner for £5 and £10. (Hint: The Best Turkish Kebab or an Amy Winehouse haunt.) Nice job with this series, Olivia!

Athens in 36 hours 

Sunday preview: The New York Times takes us along for “36 hours in Athens.” We’re impressed by how much Joanna Kakissis can fit into a day and a half, including museum hopping, brunch taking, ruin walking, sunset strolling, restaurant sampling, bar hopping… But we have some better ideas for affordable hotels in Athens.

And, regarding our “Name that celebrity” quiz on Wednesday: We still can’t figure out who she is. Stay tuned for the answer and our winner.

Happy Friday, Cheapos! Should we all just head to Athens for the weekend?

Rome Q&A: The best neighborhood for “real” Roman cuisine?

Thursday, May 1st, 2008

A reader asks:

“Do you have any advice for inexpensive, authentic Roman restaurants in the center of town?”

Annie Shapero responds:

Here’s the bad news: Rome is a gaping hell mouth of overpriced restaurants aimed at the hungry, innocent traveler.

The good news is that real Roman cuisine is actually a cucina povera, or poor man’s fare—a savory waste-not want-not approach to Italian cooking that utilizes the plant and animal parts you weren’t expecting. It’s hearty and filling, and like Southern soul food in the US, it’s tastiest at its cheapest… even in the center of town.

Near Piazza Navona, Da Francesco (Piazza del Fico, 29), Da Tonino (Via del Governo Vecchio,18 ), and just Alfredo e Ada (Via dei Banchi Nuovi, 14) offer no nonsense trattoria style dining that shouldn’t run you over €15 a person (including wine!)

In Trastevere, Da Augusto (Piazza de’ Renzi, 15) is the bonafide classic.

From Campo de’ Fiori, follow the scent of deep frying to Filetti di Baccalà (Largo dei Librari, 88), which is named for its specialty, fried slabs of salty cod served alongside puntarelle salad, a crispy curly hybrid of celery and romaine hearts, made from the stalks of chicory and garnished with garlic, oil, and anchovy paste.

In Rome’s grimier neighborhoods, you’ll spend even less. Testaccio and Garbatella (both within walking or busing distance from the Piramide Metro stop) have snubbed the made-for-tourists makeover and are well worth exploring for local “character.” Agustarello (Via G.Branca, 100) has been lauded by locals and the travel media alike as cheap and tasty. They do half portions too!

In Garbatella, Il Grottino del Traslocatore (Via delle sette chiese, 2) is best in the summer when tables spill out on the sidewalk. Otherwise, it’s a steamy basement setting serving huge portions of la cucina romanesca… which does include guts of all varieties in addition to the sumptuous spaghetti alla carbonara, matriciana, and gricia. This is not for the weak at heart.

Rules of the road:

1. At the Roman trattoria or osteria, portions are big and prices are low. You get what you pay for where service is concerned, but hey—you asked for authentic.

2. Order house wine only.

3. Ask for half portions.

4. Ask for their recommendations, not the menu.

5. Don’t ask for a receipt until they’ve quoted you a price. They often write it on the paper tablecloth.

Annie Shapero lives, writes, and eats in Rome. Annie wrote hotel reviews for EuroCheapo’s guides to hotels in Rome, Florence, and Venice. You can read many more posts by Annie in the EuroCheapo blog.