Archive for August, 2008
Thursday, August 28th, 2008

If you can pull your gaze from the winding canals and floating gondolas, you’ll find there’s plenty of art to see in Venice. Many of the Italian masters, including Titian, Tintoretto, and Giorgione, have artwork on display around the city.
While the biggest museums, such as the Gallerie dell’Accademia and the Ca’ d’Oro charge anywhere from €2.50 to €6.50 for admission, Venetian churches (many of which still hold daily mass) are treasure troves of free art.
Art history at the Chiesa di San Moise
The Chiesa di San Moise, in Venice’s San Marco neighborhood, is a particularly worthwhile example. Built in the 8th-Century, this church has had enough time to acquire extravagant baroque touches-and it shows! Highlights include:
- Facade: Outside, covering the facade, you’ll find a line-up of worthy cherubs and statues.
- Statues: Inside, San Moise is decked out with busts of Italian aristocrats, Tintoretto’s “La Lavanda dei Piedi,” and bronze angels.
- Alter: A depiction of Moses on Mount Sinai graces the altar.
- Organ: An 18th century-organ is occasionally opened for public recitals.
Not bad for one church!
Visiting the church
The Chiesa di San Moise is open daily from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. The church is reachable by vaporetto stop San Marco del Giglio (Line 1). Check out the official site for more info.
Also see: Our recommended budget hotels in Venice.
Popularity: 12% [?]
Posted in Art, Free Stuff, Italy, Venice, cheapo by the day | 1 Comment »
Wednesday, August 27th, 2008

Photo by jamieca
While a visit to Stockholm’s Royal Palace (Kungliga Slottet) requires a ticket, the palace’s guards put on a delightful daily floor show that won’t cost you a krona!
The palace is located in the epicenter of Stockholm, perched above the charming island of Gamla Stan. The fact that the royal family no longer resides here shouldn’t dissuade you from visiting, as there are royal apartments, a royal armory, and a museum of antiquities to discover. (The first family lives on another island — Drottningholm, which you may also visit.) These museums, however, are not free.
Stockholm’s Changing of the Guards
The Hogvakten, or “Royal Guards,” are stationed in the palace and feature “Stockholm’s finest boys” (according to Stockholm’s office of tourism). The guard, part of the Swedish Armed Forces, is comprised of 30,000 soldiers. Tourists are invited to watch the daily ritual in front of the palace as one squad of 20 hands over their guardianship to the next squad.
During the summer, the spectacle begins at the Army Museum (Armemuseum, Riddargatan), from which the new squad takes off 30 minutes prior to the palace ceremony. The guards march in snazzy blue uniforms and tight formation to the Royal Palace, often accompanied by a military band. Upon arrival at the palace, they launch into a 35-minute display of precision marching, flag waving, and all-business attitudes.
Hours
The Changing of the Guard takes place every day at the Royal Palace. Monday - Saturday, 12:15. Sunday 1:15. (The parade, with band, occurs only during the summer months.)
More information: Stockholmtown (the city’s official website) and the Royal Palace website.
See also: our recommended budget hotels in Stockholm.
Popularity: 12% [?]
Posted in Events, Free Stuff, Stockholm, Sweden, cheapo by the day | 1 Comment »
Tuesday, August 26th, 2008

Photo by beurre salé
Flamenco dancing has its roots in the gypsy barrio of Seville. So, if this Southern Spanish city is on your travel itinerary, you’d better take yourself to a baile! Flamenco performances are offered all over Seville and typically take place in tablaos, which are restaurants or bars that charge admission for the show. It is possible, however, to catch a flamenco show for the price of a drink alone.
Free flamenco in Seville (for a drink)
La Carboneria is a hot spot located in the Barrio Santa Cruz, a neighborhood known for its free flamenco shows. Although dismissed by some as a tourist trap, La Carboneria will have you tapping your feet as the dancers stomp to the beat. Its energy is infectious. When the weather is warm, you can take in the free show on La Carboneria’s outdoor patio (tapas and drinks not included).
La Carboneria is open daily, excluding Mondays, from 10 p.m. to 3 a.m. For more information, go here.
For 13 more places to catch free flamenco in Seville, including places that welcome you to join the dancing, check out Explore Seville’s article on flamenco.
Also see: our list of recommended budget hotels in Seville.
Popularity: 13% [?]
Posted in Bars, Clubs, Entertainment, Free Stuff, Nightlife, Seville, Spain | 1 Comment »
Monday, August 25th, 2008

No trip to Salzburg is complete without at least a passing nod to “The Sound of Music,” the 1959 Rodgers and Hammerstein Broadway musical set in the city. The movie version, shot six years later, starred Julie Andrews and Christopher Plummer and included many scenes shot in Salzburg.
Not surprisingly, the city’s tourism industry doesn’t shy away from a little “Do-Re-Mi.” Movie-related reminders are available throughout the city (on chocolate and marzipan), a marionette show packs ‘em in, and of course, more than one bus tour will shuttle you from sight to sight.
These “Sound of Music” bus tours are popular with the tourist set, as they offer audio commentary, an easy ride, and lots of photo-ops. The bus is especially convenient for reaching those locales outside the city, such as the lovely St. Gilgen and Lake Wolfgang, the rolling hills behind the opening credits. These tours can get pricy. Panorama Tours offers the four-hour “Original Sound of Music Tour” for €37 for adults ($53) and €18 for children ($26).
Do it yourself Sound of Music tour
However, you don’t need to take a bus tour to visit many of the locations used in the film.
The website Visit Salzburg offers a “do it yourself” Sound of Music tour, with background information on sights used in the making of the movie. Most of the locations listed are in central Salzburg, and many can be visited for free.
Their free walking tour includes the Nonnberg Nunnery (where the nuns sing “Maria”), Mirabell Castle and Mirabell Gardens (the place where Maria and the children sing “Do-Re-Mi”), and the Felsenreitschule and Festival Halls (the stage where the Trapps perform during the Salzburg Festival). For more information, check out Visit Salzburg’s website.
Salzburg’s tourism office offers additional “Sound of Music” locations on their website, Salzburg.info. Sights here include St. Peter’s Cemetery and Leopoldskron Palace. (Read the whole tour here.)
Also see: Our reviews of cheap hotels in Salzburg.
Popularity: 21% [?]
Posted in Austria, Free Stuff, Salzburg, cheapo by the day, walking | 2 Comments »
Friday, August 22nd, 2008

The Caffè Miani Zucca In Galleria in Milan.
By Jenna Weiner
In Milan, where fashion is king and wispy models are its princesses, the all-you-can-eat buffet is the last kind of dining experience that comes to mind. Yet the two can coexist in blissful harmony, for Milan is the home of the aperitivo—a tradition that takes the concept of the buffet to an entirely new level.
“Aperitivo,” the rich uncle of the “Happy Hour,” is the beloved Milanese tradition of pre-dinner drinks accompanied by complimentary “stuzzichini,” or appetizers. Derived from the Latin “aperitivus,” or, “to open,” aperitivo is meant to open the appetite and tease the taste buds, previewing the delights of dinner.
The typical spread can be something as modest as olives, cheeses and potato chips to something as overwhelming and awe-inspiring as pasta dishes, pizza slices, bruschetta, meats, sautéed vegetables and fruit salad. Unlike the American happy hour, drinks are the regular price or slightly more — but come with unlimited admission to the food bar. The usual aperitivo starts at 6 or 7 PM and lasts until 9, and as little as one drink—alcoholic or not—can be your ticket to one of the most delicious secrets in Italy.
Do as the Milanese do…
Although it is entirely possible to make an entire free dinner of aperitivo, the real test is to act like the Milanese, who delicately graze through the line, giving the food the respect it deserves.
As an American student studying in Milan, amazed by the delicious food and blindsided by the dismal exchange rate, my fellow expats and I were not so sophisticated. We would dash to the food immediately after the waitress walked away with our drink order, returning with our hands guarding our heaps of food, poised to catch the last piece of focaccia from falling to the ground. The locals, still dressed in their crisp and stylish work attire, would watch us with amusement as they nibbled at the vegetables and cheeses, then sampled the more elaborate dishes.
After all, the Milanese have had time to perfect their technique. With roots in ancient Rome and more direct ancestors in the 1800s, aperitivo is a well-established Italian tradition, particularly in Northern Italy. The modern aperitivo began to take shape in the 1920s in Milan—the city became known as “the capital of aperitivo” as the tradition gained popularity—and consisted of drinks of Campari or similar bitters, accompanied by simple snack foods such as olives or nuts.
Since then, the food selection has exploded in size, and the drinks are no longer limited to traditional “aperitif” liquors—bitters, prosecco, martinis and white wine—though they still remain the most popular choices, with the decisive winner being the Negroni (1 part Gin, 1 part Campari, 1 part Sweet Vermouth). Through it all, the social essence of the aperitivo tradition has remained its unchangeable core.
“Aperitivo offers a moment of relaxation at the end of a day at work, where you can allow yourself the pleasure of conversation paired with the pleasure of good food,” says Grazia Mannozzi, author and professor at the University of Insubria, just outside Milan. “It is especially successful due to the pleasant climate of our country and the Italian passion for socializing,” she says, “as can also be seen in the ‘passeggiare’ tradition, in which people stroll in the piazzas and the main streets of the cities in the evening.” Mannozzi attends aperitivo approximately once a week, but says she knows of many people who attend far more frequently (“especially those without children to make dinner for!” she adds).
So many aperitivo options
The possibilities for aperitivo are endless. Walk into any neighborhood café and you’ll find a dozen tables crammed with friends and family, laughing and talking excitedly, very rarely sitting; standing for the excitement of a story, mingling with friends at other tables, passing along the bar filled with steaming plates and bowls.
Pick: Bar Tender
Piazza Morbegno (intersection of Via Varanini and Via Venini)
Bar Tender is our pick for “neighborhood bar.” Drinks are anywhere from €5.50 for a regular drink to €8 for a large drink. Service is prompt and friendly and the food selection is legendary—many Milanese claim it is the largest they have seen in the city. With various types of focaccia, pizza, and pasta dishes (and with servers that bring the plates around to the table to serve you seconds), you may find it difficult to wait until 9, when they clear the bar to make room for the delicious desserts.
Brera
Head to Brera, the artsy, bohemian district, and meander along its cobblestone streets where you’ll find friends, looking effortlessly hip with their colorful scarves, lingering over their white wine in the ivy-climbed patio cafés.
Pick: Radetzky Café
Via Largo La Foppa, 5
Drinks average about €8, and the buffet has all the elements of a standard aperitivo spread, yet nothing more. You pay, however, for the experience—considered one of the trendiest bars in Brera, this is the place to see and be seen. And its location in the primarily pedestrian-only streets of Brera guarantees that the party flows outside on warm nights, accumulating crowds of patrons drinking and smoking around the picturesque bar.
Navigli district
Care to have a drink in Venice? Take a trip to Milan’s Navigli district, where the canals—designed in 1482 by Leonardo da Vinci to import wine, food, and the marble needed to construct Milan’s elaborate Gothic Duomo—still carve through the narrow streets.
Along the still waters, lined with lights, the trendiest bars and restaurants compete for the largest and most exciting stuzzichini selections, as the university students compete with the blaring music. For an even more unique experience, step onto one of the houseboats docked in the canals, which offer aperitivo and often live music. Whether by land or by sea, most of the Navigli hot spots turn their buffets into dance floors later in the evening.
Pick: Slice
Via Ascanio Sforza, 9
Drinks are about €7, and the experience manages to combine an impressive food selection with a fun and trendy experience. You will probably not notice the burnt orange walls, animal prints and knick-knack decorations because you will be too busy filling up your plate. With standard wares such as focaccia, cold cuts, pasta, French fries, and even New York-style pizza, the word has gotten out; arrive by 7 PM at the latest before the line gets out of hand.
Piazza Duomo
For a more classic aperitivo experience, go no further than the heart of the city, Piazza Duomo. There you’ll find the more expensive bars, as they tend to cater to the large percentage of tourists who never stray from that sightseeing epicenter. But be careful—expensive does not necessarily translate into better or more food.
Inside the Galleria di Vittorio Emanuele lies Café Zucca, arguably the home of the aperitivo. A favorite hangout of Giuseppe Verdi and Arturo Toscanini after their performances at La Scala, the legendary opera house next door, “Zucca in Galleria” was owned by the Campari family, who lent their name to the traditional aperitif they invented. Consequently, Zucca is often considered the original aperitivo bar, and wears its history proudly. Though you’ll pay extra for the experience, soak up the historical ambiance as you gaze at the Duomo’s magnificent spires and pinnacles. Weaving in and out through the crowd of tourists, you’ll also hear the clicks of heels echoing along the marble floors as the shoppers pass by with their newly acquired Gucci and Prada treasures.
Pick: Caffè Miani Zucca In Galleria
In Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, in Piazza Duomo
Like few places in the city, Zucca has made a determined effort to remain in the style of the golden days of aperitivo. The keyword here is classic: classic, old-fashioned décor; classic, simple food selection (olives, potato chips and nuts); and classic, original aperitivo drinks (Negroni and the classic Milanese martini are most popular).
You can’t go wrong
With almost every bar and café in the city offering some version of aperitivo, the choices may seem overwhelming. But with obvious variations in ambiance, selection size, and prices, it is easy to select an unforgettable aperitivo experience. Just follow the pace of the Milanese in their leisurely tribute to food and friends; that is, if that new plate of risotto will let you.
About the author:
Jenna Weiner is a senior English major at Georgetown University. She is the former Editor-in-Chief and current News Editor of The Georgetown Independent, where she writes mostly feature articles. A native of Boston, Massachusetts, she travels whenever possible and lived in downtown Milan for four months.
Popularity: 24% [?]
Posted in Budget Deals, Food, Free Stuff, Italy, Local Customs, Milan | 6 Comments »
Wednesday, August 20th, 2008

No bones about it, Rome’s Capuchin Crypt is an incredible (and intense) way to spend an hour. Located underneath the Church of Santa Maria della Immacolata Concezione on Via Veneto, this burial chamber is unique in its decorative technique—rooms are adorned extensively with human bones.
More than 4,000 monks are buried within the crypt’s six rooms, all of whom died between 1528 and 1870. The crypt got started back in 1631, when the Capuchin monks moved into their new friary upstairs and brought with them the bones of their brethren long gone. They arranged these bones in their new crypt, first lining them up against the walls, but eventually getting much more elaborate.
Over the next 240 years, until 1870, the friars would become experts at, shall we say, “interior design.” Bones, such as skulls, leg bones, pelvises and such, were separated and employed to make elaborate columns, arches, and floral designs with great flourishes. If you squint your eyes, you might be able to forget that you’re looking at the deceased.
Rooms include the “Crypt of the Skulls,” “Crypt of the Pelvises,” “Crypt of the Leg Bones and Thigh Bones,” and more.
Visiting the Capuchin Crypt
Church of Santa Maria della Immacolata Concezione
Via Vittorio Veneto, 27. Metro: Barberini
Hours: 9-12 PM and 3-6 PM daily. Closed Thursdays.
Although the crypt is free to visit, a donation is suggested. More information about the church and the crypt is available on the church’s website.
Also see: our list of recommended budget hotels in Rome.
Popularity: 16% [?]
Posted in Art, Free Stuff, Italy, Rome, cheapo by the day, churches | 2 Comments »
Tuesday, August 19th, 2008

When in Prague, why not spend a couple of hours walking the town with a local? And not just any local—a local who’s a history buff! “Free Prague Tours” offers just that. The organization, made up of English-speaking tour guides, offers twice-daily walking tours of the Old Town and Mala Strana. And yes, they’re free! (Although a tip is expected at the end.)
We’re big fans of guided walking tours, especially when you’re lead around town by somebody who knows their stuff. Of course, we also enjoy the “do-it-yourself tour,” with a Lonely Planet or Rick Steves book in hand. But a guided tour offers the chance for dialogue with a local who can answer questions that will inevitably arise. Walking tours also let you relax (stop reading and walking!), and give you a chance to focus on the subject at hand.
Free Prague Tours
Prague Walking Tours offers two free tours daily:
The 10:30 AM “Right Bank Tour” focuses on sights to the right of the Vltava River. It starts in the Old Town Square and astronomical clock, and hits the “Powder Tower,” Wenceslas Square, Franciscan Garden, National Museum, and Jewish Ghetto. Along the way, your guide will discuss communism, the “Velvet revolution,” and Franz Kafka, among other subjects.
The 2 PM tour focuses on the sights of Prague’s Left Bank. The tour also starts in the Old Town Square, then heads to the Rudolfinum, crosses the Charles Bridge and explores Malá Strana. You’ll visit Parliament, Prague Castle (the courtyard), St. Vitus Cathedral, and the Strahov Monastery, among other places of interest.
Both tours last two and a half to three hours (depending on how quickly you walk and how many questions you ask).
Taking a walking tour
No reservations are necessary to take a walking tour with Free Prague Tours. Tours begin in the Old Town Square, at the corner of Pa?ížská street. You’ll see a small brown sign in front of the Czech Tourism Office.
Note: Although the tours are free, tipping your guide is essential. The guides are students, academics, artists, and professional guides who give these tours to supplement their incomes.
Free Prague Tours also offers a nightly “Ghost and Beer Tour” of Prague for 200 Czk (about €8).
Also see: Our guide to budget hotels in Prague.
Popularity: 31% [?]
Posted in Czech Republic, Free Stuff, Prague, cheapo by the day, walking | 6 Comments »
Monday, August 18th, 2008

Photo courtesy of Fragonard’s official web site
In the list of Paris museums, one sweet-smelling attraction is sometimes overlooked. The Musee du Parfum, run by the famous perfume manufacturer Fragonard, has been offering a “behind the scents” tour of the perfume business for 25 years. And happily for us, the visit is free!
The museum is housed in a gorgeous 19th-century townhouse that drips with romantic ornamentation. The house was built by Joseph Lesoufaché, a student of Garnier, for whom the nearby Opera Garnier was named. (When we say “nearby,” we mean it. The museum is less than half a block west of the opera!)
The Fragonard Museum provides free guided tours throughout the day. Learn how perfume has been made through the ages, and inspect the elaborate tools used in their production.
Just don’t be surprised if you’re inspired to buy some wares at the end of the tour!
Visiting Fragonard’s Perfume Museum
Le musee du parfum
9, rue Scribe
Metro: Opera
Tél: +33 (0) 1 47 42 04 56
The museum is open Monday to Saturday from 9 AM to 6 PM, Sundays and holidays, 9 AM to 5 PM.
For more details, visit the museum’s website.
Join us again tomorrow, as our “Grand Tour” continues in Prague.
Popularity: 21% [?]
Posted in France, Free Stuff, Museums, Paris, Shops, cheapo by the day | 4 Comments »
Friday, August 15th, 2008

When in Nice, take a break from the Mediterranean waters and head to the posh, northern suburb of Cimiez. The town offers ancient ruins from its important past (it was the region’s capital city during Roman times, 1,700 years ago), along with museums, a famous cemetery, and the Monastere Notre-Dame de Cimiez. The area is also home to Nice’s jazz festival, which occurs every year in July.
A visit to the Monastere de Cimiez is a quiet, enchanted escape from Nice. Dating back to the 16th century, the gothic church you see today was the result of an 1850 renovation. The church is famous for three paintings by prominent brother painters, Louis and Antoine Brea. The near-by museum, the Musée Franciscain, explains the role of the Franciscans in Nice over the centuries, and allows visitors a peek into a recreated (and especially drab) monk’s cell.
The adjoining cemetery is notable for its picturesque qualities, marble graves, and notable residents. Painters Raoul Dufy and Henri Matisse, both former residents of Cimiez, are buried here. Wander through the cemetery, making sure to leave time for the beautifully landscaped gardens.
Visiting the Monastere Notre Dame de Cimiez
The church is open daily from 9 AM to 6 PM. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, from 10 AM - 12 PM, and 3 PM - 6 PM. Admission is free. For more information, call 04-93-81-00-04.
Popularity: 12% [?]
Posted in Art, France, Free Stuff, Museums, Nice, cheapo by the day, churches | No Comments »
Thursday, August 14th, 2008

When planning your trip to New York, it’s easy to forget to pack your bathing suit. (After all, not many affordable hotels are blessed with swimming pools.) However, the city’s Downtown Boathouse offers kayak rides in the Hudson River throughout the summer and fall… for free!
The all-volunteer boathouse has been getting New Yorkers (and visitors) into the Hudson for 10 years, and an estimated 250,000 kayak trips have been enjoyed so far. The group provides several programs: kayaking lessons, three-hour kayak adventures up the Hudson, harbor tours, and the popular “walk-up kayaking.”
Free Walk-Up Kayaking
Between May and October each year, the group offers its free walk-up kayaking program. It’s simple: walk up to any of the group’s three boathouses, sign a liability waiver, put on a life jacket, and grab a kayak and paddle. You’re restricted to paddling inside the protected waters surrounding the boathouse (so lay aside your plans to head for Lady Liberty). The staff keeps a watchful eye on the kayakers.
Rules: Anyone who can swim is permitted to kayak. Children between 16-18 years may take a kayak out on their own, if a parent or guardian is present at the boathouse. Children younger than 16 may go out, but must be accompanied by an adult in a double-kayak.
Boathouse locations and hours
The Downtown Boathouse has three locations, each with their own hours:
Pier 40 at Houston Street and the Hudson River — 9 AM to 6 PM, weekends and holidays.
Pier 96 at 56th Street and the Hudson River — 9 AM to 6 PM, weekends and holidays. Also open weekday nights from 5 PM to 7 PM, June 16 through August 29.
72nd Street and the Hudson River — 10 AM to 5 PM, weekends and holidays.
For more information, visit the New York City Downtown Boathouse’s website.
Popularity: 17% [?]
Posted in Free Stuff, New York, Sports, cheapo by the day | 1 Comment »
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