Amsterdam tram; Photo by vitalyzator

By Audrey Sykes in Amsterdam—Public transportation in and around Amsterdam can be confusing for outsiders. And now a recent makeover in the city transit system has altered the cost and protocol of inner-city travel. Here’s some useful info to keep trams, buses and metros convenient and affordable for sightseers. Remember, there are low-cost and efficient ways to get around this city. You just have to know how to use them.

The basics: Standard fare

Hopping on a tram or bus will cost €2.60 for a one-hour ticket—meaning the ticket sold to you by the driver or ticket agent is valid for the following hour. Exact change is not required, though breaking large bills is frowned upon. Also new this year, each bus now has gray electronic pads at each doorway which keep track of entry and exit. Look for these circular pads when you enter and exit the tram/bus. And, be sure to press your ticket against them when both getting on and off. Otherwise, your tickets won’t remain valid.

Most common travel option: Strippenkarts

Long thin tickets called “strippenkarts” are available for purchase at Centraal Station, all GVB stations, Albert Heijn supermarkets, post offices and most kiosks. One strippenkart for €7.30 provides 15 boxes. These ‘boxes’ are verified with a stamp from a transport drivers or ticket sellers upon entry onto a bus or tram. One zone, which encompasses the city center, will cost two boxes. A strippenkart can usually provide about seven one-way rides, and once a box is stamped the one-hour-travel rule applies. Also, a strippenkart can be used for more than one person.

Short and sweet: Day tickets

Travelers looking to use public transport for just a day or two might find the most affordable and easiest option day tickets valid for 24, 48, 72 or 96 hours. Prices range from €7 to €18, and they work the same way as basic fare tickets—meaning it is still necessary to use those circular, electronic pads (on trams and buses) to keep a day ticket valid. These tickets are available from drivers and ticket sellers (only the 24-hour ticket), GVB outlets, tourist offices and kiosks as well.

Late line: Night buses

Amsterdam has a reliable and timely night bus system which is easy to use and much more affordable than a taxi, especially if you’re staying outside of the city center. Buses pick up hourly from locations like Rembrandtplein, Centraal Station and other main train stations throughout the night. Night bus tickets are purchased from the driver only, for €3.50 (one-way) and are valid for one and a half hours. Strippenkarts are available for €25 and provide about six trips (12 boxes).

The metro; Photo by Daniel Sparing

One more option: Try the metro

Amsterdam’s underground metro system is basic and ideal for escaping outside the city or attending an Ajax football match at the Amstel Arena. Most metros leave from below Centraal Station, and valid tickets include strippenkarts, basic fare tickets and day tickets. This website offers online directions, in English, to easily guide travelers on getting from Point A to Point B. For more information and maps of Amsterdam public transportation, visit www.gvb.nl (English is available).

About the author: Audrey Sykes hopped across the pond from the US three years ago for a Masters degree in global journalism. Since then, she’s lived all over Europe, reporting and editing for music sites, snowboard mags, and travel media.

Popularity: 7% [?]

The scene at the Harlem Jazz Club in Barcelona; photo by panic

By Regina W. Bryan in Barcelona—All year long, but especially during summer months, Barcelona’s balmy air is filled with music. From opera to blues, pop music to jazz, the city offers up music daily. Since most of us can’t pay the big bucks to see major acts on tour here, I’ve put together a list of a few places where concerts are cheap—or better yet—even free. Enjoy.

Harlem Jazz Club

Despite the name, this club offers more than jazz.  Six days a week, Tuesday to Sunday (closed Mondays), Harlem offers a diverse line-up. Going to Harlem is a local tradition, where you may not know what will be on that night (Read: They used to post the schedule on-line, but no longer do this.), but you can be sure the vibe will be fun and different. Case in point? The last time I went there a Flamenco-Brazilian band was playing a jam set of groovy fusion. Expect to spend €8 for entry and a drink.

Address: C/ Comtessa De Sobradiel, 8
08002 Barcelona
Tel: 933 100 755

Jazz Si

Located in the Raval, this place fills up fast. Concerts start promptly at 9 PM and because they are inexpensive (€7 a pop), they usually sell out. Your best bet is to arrive a half hour early and wait in line to be assured a spot. Check out the line-up via their Web site. Recent concerts featured flamenco, salsa, and pop.

Address: Requesens, 2

Monasterio

This small, but hoppin’ club offers live music every night of the week, plus jam sessions a few times a week. That’s right, Cheapos. During a jam session, even you can play for the house! Tucked away in Barceloneta, most concerts at Monestario cost about €6 though jam sessions are free of charge. Like Harlem, this is a great place to drop into when you feel like taking in some music and maybe getting a surprise or two. A jam session occurs every Sunday night. For more info, visit Monestario’s Web site.

Free concerts in the park

This summer there are free concerts every Friday in Ciutadella Park (city center). It should be said that sometimes these shows are fantastic and at other times they are a yawn. However, it’s really nice to be out in the park, under the stars, listening to the nearby frogs and smelling the aroma of sweet blooming night flowers. Bring a picnic and a couple candles and set up in the grass near the stage. These concerts start at 10 PM and run for about an hour. For a schedule and more, go here.

About the author: Regina W. Bryan is a Barcelona-based freelance writer and photographer. When not eating tapas and exploring Europe, she is tending her balcony’s veggie garden and practicing Catalan. For more of her thoughts on Spain, check: www.regwb.com and www.thespainscoop.com.

Popularity: 8% [?]

Prepare for summer train travel! Photo by hiddeneurope

By Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries in Berlin—It’s that time of year, Cheapos. The time when various European railway administrations launch a deluge of summer specials. So what’s making the top of the list this year? Read on for a list of rail companies that are slashing prices.

TGV

First up? Those deeply discounted offerings from the French Railways (SNCF) on their TGV services. Between now and August 23rd, first-class fares on many routes across France have been slashed to as little as €30 one way. Look for the TGV Prems Vente Flash fares on the dedicated SNCF website.

Thalys

Thalys is also offering regular summer first class specials, again on sale until August 23rd, for services linking Paris with Brussels, Amsterdam and Cologne. With August being a light month for business travel, there are often heaps of empty seats on TGV and Thalys first-class carriages, and so these summer deals give budget travelers the chance to trade up to a spot of unaccustomed luxury! For more info, visit Thalys’ web site.

Deutsche Bahn

Deutsche Bahn launches a new ticket this week that—for travelers in no great rush—looks like a superb deal. The Quer-durchs-Land Ticket (QdLT) is a weekday equivalent of the long standing Schönes-Wochenende Ticket (SWT), which allows unlimited travel in Germany on all but the fastest trains on either a Saturday or a Sunday. Now QdLT will offer a similar option from Monday through Friday. Stipulations include no travel before 9 AM, but for long hops on slower trains,  QdLT can be fantastic value. Okay, so you can’t use the slick express services, but the slower trains bring other benefits – a chance to enjoy the passing countryside at a less hectic pace.

Cologne to Heidelberg, for example, takes less than five hours by regional train on a route that includes the Rhine valley line from Bonn via Koblenz to Mainz, in our view hugely better than the route used by the fastest express trains. QdLT is utterly flexible. No need to state your destination, no need to pre-book. And the basic fare of €34 is good for solo travel, then add on €5 for each extra traveler up to a maximum of five in all (for €54).

Happy traveling, Cheapos.

About the authors: Susanne Kries and Nicky Gardner are regular contributors to EuroCheapo and together edit hidden europe magazine.

Popularity: 11% [?]

MAMAC's architecture looms over Nice; photo by abragad

Nice is a happening summer destination, but all that beach time can get hot, hot, hot! When you need a break from the heat, step on into the Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain (Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art) for a cool respite full of beautiful, mind expanding art—and all for free!

What’s on?

The Musée switches up its offerings annually giving each group of artists it showcases a good, long run. Current exhibits include a retrospective of the work of Robert Longo, and the paintings of Djamel Tatah. Past exhibitions have featured artists like Michel Gérard and Denis Castellas. Be sure to check out the museum’s spectacular structure too, a dream-come-true for architects Yves Bayard and Henri Vidal. For more information, visit the museum’s web site (exhibit info only in French).

If you go-

The Musée is located in central Nice on the Promenade des Arts, near the Garibaldi tram stop. Open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 AM to 6 PM (closed Mondays) except on holidays. Entrance into the museum and gallery is free of charge. Guided tours are €5, €2.50 reduced and occur daily at 3 PM.

Popularity: 8% [?]

The funky carpet at a Paris FNAC store. Photo by Alex Korting

By Liz Webber in Paris—You’re in Paris and you forgot your camera’s memory card at home. Oh, and your watch just stopped. To top it off you’ve got a splitting headache.

So, what’s a Cheapo to do? Never fear, this practical guide will help you navigate some minor emergencies and other incoveniences you might experience while in France.

My watch stopped / Ma montre s’est arrêté

While you may not be paying much attention to time while on vacation, it can be annoying when your watch battery suddenly dies. The problem is easily fixed by a visit to a jewelry store, or “bijouterie.” Ask for a “pile” (battery) for your “montre” (watch) and it should be good as new for under €10. Cheapo tip:  Bijouterie can also be helpful with other travel jewelry snafus. If you drop your necklace à la Carrie Bradshaw, for example, they can quickly and easily repair a chain on-the-cheapo.

I have a headache / J’ai mal à la tête

Unlike in the U.S., the only place to buy any kind of medication in France is at the “pharmacie.” These modern-day apothecaries are all marked with a green cross and can be found on many a main and side street throughout Paris. Pharmaceuticals in France are also sold under their generic name only, not the brand name. For example, if you’re looking for Advil for your headache you’ll have to ask for “ibuprofène”

French pharmacists can diagnose and prescribe medicine for minor ailments; the phrase “je suis malade” and a good pantomime should get the point across if you’re feeling under the weather. The pharmacy is also the place to find such essential items as contact lens solution (“du solution pour les lentilles”), adhesive bandages (“des pansements”), and sunblock (éran solaire).

I’d like some contact lenses / Je voudrais des lentilles

Speaking of contact lenses, what happens when you drop one in the Jardin des Tuileries (it happens more than you think!) and it’s your last one? Well, French opticians sell disposable dailies without a prescription. You’ll obviously need to know what specifications you need, but other than that it’s simply a matter of walking in and asking for what you want. The smallest amount you can buy is usually a box of 30 “lentilles” (a 15-day supply), which will cost €15 to 20.

I need a memory card / J’ai besoin d’une carte mémoire

Imagine: You just got to the top of the Eiffel Tower. You turn on your camera to take that first picture and - doh! - realize you forgot that extra memory cartridge. Ne vous inquiétez pas. Don’t worry. Head to the electronics chain store FNAC (pronounced fuh-NACK) for a new “carte mémoire.” Depending on the model you need and what you’re looking for, a card can cost as low as €6.

Note: Not all FNAC outlets offer a huge inventory. But the larger stores can be found on the Champs Elysées (74, Avenue des Champs Elysées), outside Saint Lazare (109 Rue Saint-Lazare), and in the Forum des Halles.

Help, police! / Au secours!

Though no Cheapo likes to think about having a more major emergency, it helps to know what to do if something worse than a broken shoelace occurs. If you ever have a real emergency in France, there are three numbers you need to know (although 911 works in most countries). That’s 15 for an ambulance, 17 for the police, and 18 for the fire department. Dial from any phone and help is on the way!

Popularity: 7% [?]

Billy Elliot makes a splash; photo by chrisjohnbeckett

By Justin Bergman in London—London’s many stages and playhouses have countless plays, musicals and operas on offer all summer long—and unlike in New York, tickets here can be had for a song if you know where to look.

As far as prices go, think under 10 pounds. In fact, at one theater, tickets go for 10 pence a head (more on this later)! Here’s how to find the best deals:

Scoring half-price seats for the splashy West End shows-

Chances are if you’re thinking about taking in a show in London, you’re going to want to get the most for your money, i.e. a big-time musical (Billy Elliot, Sister Act) with magnificent production values and perhaps a B-list celebrity star. There’s nothing wrong with that. Just read the reviews and choose wisely as there are more than a few stinkers on the West End. (We’re hearing that Priscilla Queen of the Desert the Musical, for instance, just doesn’t live up to all the sequin and rhinestone hype.)

Tickets for the biggest musicals—especially the most in demand—can run upwards of 60 pounds ($100) apiece. But there are a few ways to save.

1) First, check for discounts online at ticket broker websites. The best aggregator out there is comparetheatretickets.com, which lists all the discounted tickets available from numerous online brokers for every show. For example, a search for Avenue Q tickets on July 23 turned up an 11-pound ($18) ticket in the upper balcony from the retailer Seatem.

Checking out the TKTS offerings; photo by Andyrob

2) Another sure bet for discounts is the TKTS booth in Leicester Square (Tube to Leicester Square, Piccadilly or Northern line), which sells half-priced tickets for most West End shows the same day of the performance. For the best shot at a wallet-friendly price and a non-nosebleed seat, get there when the booth opens at 10 AM Monday through Saturday (noon on Sundays).

Get thee to the theater!

Individual theaters also offer reduced prices for tickets as part of a concerted effort to bring in a younger crowd. As we reported earlier this year, the National Theatre puts on an annual Travelex 10-pound ticket season in which tickets for quality plays like Richard Bean’s England People Very Nice and Hanif Kureishi’s The Black Album start at just 10 pounds ($16) apiece. Tickets are sold via the National Theatre’s website. The current season runs through the fall.

Some theatres even give away a limited number of free tickets for people under age 26. Yup, you read that right. Free. At the National Theatre, for example, all you have to do is sign up for an Entry Pass online and your first ticket to one of the theatre’s shows is absolutely free (after that, you pay 5 pounds per ticket, about $8). There are a ton of off-West End theatres with the free-tickets-for-under-26 deal, including the Donmar Warehouse, Hampstead Theatre, Soho Theatre, Arcola Theatre, Bush Theatre, and Gate Theatre.

Stand up for great theater!

You’d be surprised how many venues in London will let you stand and be counted for incredibly low prices. Both the Royal Opera House and the English National Opera sell standing room tickets in the back of the house starting at 4 pounds ($6.50) and 10 pounds ($16), respectively. At Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre, you can experience As You Like It as a groundling would have in the 1600s—standing in front of the stage (cost: 5 pounds or $8). The National Theatre also offers standing tickets for 5 pounds for most shows.

Drum roll please…lest we forget those 10 pence seats-

And here’s the best deal I’ve seen in awhile (aside from the free tickets, of course): At the Royal Court Theatre in Sloane Square, eight standing, restricted-view tickets are sold for only 10 pence (16 cents) apiece an hour before the show. Sure, you have to stand and you may not be able to see the entire stage, but 16 cents is one heck of a deal!

Popularity: 10% [?]

Steel heels for Roman ladies; Photo by alibaster

By Sav D’Souza in Rome—In Rome adherence to the bella figura (beautiful figure) is considered important. And, hey, for some of us - when in Rome - it’s more fun to do as the Romans do. Here are my top suggestions for escaping a visit from the style polizia.

For the donna…

Ride high!

Whether it’s hopping on a motorini or taking on those ancient, cobbled streets, strong and dominant high heels are de rigueur for Roman ladies. Get the look on-the-cheapo: Head for the Piazza dell’Emporio in the Testaccio area. Just a short walk from the Piramide Metro and outside the vegetable market you’ll find stalls packed with great, sexy shoes at bargain prices. Ciao down!

And another thing…

Mini skirts and short shorts for the ladies are deemed declassé and, worse yet, touristy.

One man's shoes; photo by Sav D'Souza

For the uomo…

Walk in his shoes.

Not wearing a decent pair of shoes here is considered in extremely bad taste. Also, with such an elaborate array of shoe stores all over the city, and for every budget, there is simply no excuse to be soul-less. Get the look on the cheapo: For good deals and decent prices, check out Mas Allo Statuto (11, Via della Statuto). It’s between Termini station and Piazza Vittorio and has four floors full of choice stuff.

Dress the part.

You will notice that everyone from the street vendor to the taxi driver dresses “up” in Rome. It’s appreciated if you slip on a smart shirt, trousers and shoes. Get the look on the cheapo: A cool shop for guys is the Ivy Oxford on Via due Macelli (near the Spanish Steps). Here you can snag stylish new togs without breaking the bank.

And another thing…

Skinny jeans are pretty much the norm among the young dudes in Rome. Get the look on the cheapo: The easy answer here is H&M. Stores are located at Via Cristoforo Colombo 714, (Rome 00144), on Via Collatina, (Roma Lunghezza 00010) and at 201, Via Alberto Lionello (Roma Bufalotta). Also worth a look for good prices: Benetton. There’s a store on Via Nazionale.

For all man (and woman) kind

Some schmancy knockoff shades; Photo by Sav D'Souza

Proper shading

You’ve gotta have shades in Rome. No matter if it’s overcast or you find yourself indoors unable to see a thing, it’s all about the look. Designer sunglasses and their doppelganger knockoffs are essential for blending in here.  Get the look on the cheapo: Take a stroll along Via Nazionale and you are bound to spy street vendors selling designer shades. Remember these Chanel and Dolce versions lack authenticity, so haggle away until you get a price that’s right.

Good branding

Big name labels and brands are big stuff in Rome. Some of the most frequently encountered are the ubiquitous Lacoste polo shirts, Converse and Adidas trainers, and—that’s right—those flashy name brand sunglasses. These are all considered wardrobe staples. Get the look on the cheapo: The market on Via Sannio (near the San Giovanni Metro station) is a great place to pick up labels at a fraction of their normal cost. Remember, those prepared to haggle will get further reductions.

Snow suit

Even if it seems like a mild day - perhaps even a touch on the warm side - Romans don a coat, scarf and sometimes a chic, woolly hat. Get the look on the cheapo: The area around Castel Sant’Angelo sells scarves and hats at good prices.

Popularity: 8% [?]

Entrance to Sforza Castle in Milan; Photo by Bernt Rostad

Despite Milan’s reputation as the center of the fashion universe, the capital of Italy has plenty of (non-Gucci related) attractions for Cheapos to explore. Take, for instance, the Sforza Castle, or the “Castello Szforesco,” as it is known in Italian.

This impressive structure was built by the Sforza family in the 14th century to replace the Visconti Castle after it was destroyed. The Sforza castle played an important role in the history of Milan, serving as a fortress and barracks during various military confrontations. Napoleon seized the castle in May 1776 and it remained under French rule until 1799. The castle was soon back in French hands, when Napoleon defeated the then-ruling Austrian army. The castle was restored after the unification of Italy in 1861, with the help of the renowned architect Luca Beltrami.

Today the castle is best known for the civic museums it houses. Among the items on display are Michelangelo’s last sculpture, the Rondanini Pieta, and da Vinci’s Codex Trivulzianus manuscript. Besides the museums and its stately towers, the castello boasts a beautiful garden and the original moat that surrounded medieval Milan.

You can browse the castle grounds for free, though museum admission costs €3. Afraid you can’t afford to glimpse the works of your favorite Renaissance artists? Never fear: if you stop by between 4:30 pm and 5 pm (between 2 pm and 5:30 pm on Fridays), you’ll get into the castle museums liberare! (Who says being late is always bad?)

The Castello Szforesco is open daily from 7 am to 6 pm in winter, and 7 am to 7 pm in summer. Take the MM1 Cadorna to Cairoli or the MM2 Cadorna to Lanza. Visit the castle’s official site for more info.

Popularity: 8% [?]

The view from here...photo by Alex Robertson Textor

By Alex Robertson Textor—Two weeks in the Nordic countries visiting friends in familiar cities and discovering new territory required me to rely heavily on airplanes as well as trains to get around.

I took five flights during my trip: Stockholm to Helsinki; Helsinki to Copenhagen; Copenhagen to the Faroe Islands; Faroe Islands to Copenhagen; and Copenhagen to Stockholm. All but the final of these flights was unavoidable, scheduling-wise. During the last stretch I badly wanted to take the train, but logistics and pricing got in the way.

All in all, the packed itinerary yielded four airlines I’d never encountered before—one regional airline, two legacy airlines, and one low-cost airline. Here are my reviews.

Flight #1: Stockholm to Helsinki
Airline: Blue1

SAS subsidiary Blue1 is a regional airline with a dense route map covering Finland. The total experience is pretty humdrum. Notable dimensions of the experience included the offer of little candies from a basket at the close of the flight and a good in-flight magazine, which featured interesting articles on Helsinki allotment gardens and a  unique lighthouse accommodation along the Finnish coast. There was a free drink service but no snack is served on board.

Cost of one-way ticket: 739 SEK (about $95) purchased on the Swedish version of the SAS site.

On-time? No. 45-minute delay.

Flight rating: 3 out of 5 stars

Flight #2: Helsinki to Copenhagen
Airline: Finnair

This Finnish legacy carrier runs a seriously well-designed ship, which has earned kudos for its routes to Asia and its overall brand. Of note was the rack of free newspapers on offer to guests—I plumped for Helsinki’s Swedish-language Hufvudstadsbladet—and the plush blue seats. Snack service consisted of a cheese and cucumber sandwich, a small cup of concentrated orange juice, and a tiny Mars candy. The in-flight magazine contained thoughtful stories on the Finnish town of Rauma, the Japanese lust for vintage Finnish design, and Finland’s Valamo Monastery, the only Orthodox monastery in the Nordic countries.

Cost of one-way ticket: $111, purchased through Orbitz.com.

On-time? Yes.

Flight rating: 4 out of 5 stars

Flight #3: Copenhagen to the Faroe Islands (roundtrip)
Airline: Atlantic Airways

This air carrier faces no competition on its routes, which in high season connect the Faroe Islands’ Vagar international airport with Denmark, Greenland, Iceland, Norway, and the UK. The airline, sadly, lacked personality. A snack was served in a big paper bag. It consisted of a bland ciabatta sandwich and a single wrapped Fazer mint. The in-flight magazine is very glossy. Perks of note: Danish and Faroese newspapers draped over seats and the drinks cart, which materializes with unexpected regularity and dispenses hard liquor free of charge. Bummer of note:  A stopped-up toilet on the Copenhagen-Faroes route.

Cost of roundtrip ticket: $404, purchased on the Atlantic Airways Web site.

On-time? Yes.

Flight rating: 2 out of 5 stars

Flight #4: Copenhagen to Stockholm
Airline: Norwegian Air

Norwegian Air Shuttle—these days more often referred to as “Norwegian”—is a quietly successful airline. Branded as a budget airline, Norwegian indeed offers some very reasonable advance fares. Norwegian doesn’t destroy passengers with arbitrary charges, either. With other European low-cost airlines charging for all sorts of things like checking in at the airport and checked baggage, Norwegian’s free 20 kg baggage allotment felt like a gift. Nothing on board is free, of course. The in-flight magazine is written in uneven English, though it contained a few items of note: a short article suggesting that passengers use their mobile telephones to check in for flights, DJ Rune Lindbaek’s tips for Oslo visits, and an overview of Swedish landscape architect Ulf Nordfjell’s oeuvre.

Cost of one-way ticket: €44 (about $62), purchased on wegolo.

On-time? Yes.

Flight rating: 3 out of 5 stars

About the author: Alex Robertson Textor is Editor-at-Large at EuroCheapo. He has written travel stories for the New York Post, New York Times, and Rough Guides, among other publications, and he also maintains Spendthrift Shoestring, a blog on budget travel and culture.

Popularity: 11% [?]

A vrai Parisian pasttime, drinking in the park. Photos by Theadora Brack

By Theadora Brack in Paris—Paris is made up of more than just good wine. And locals here know not to ignore the other French cylindrical dandies of the drink world. Give us your liqueurs, your full-bodied bitters, your anisés and wild gentians! The mind reels with all the other possibilities.

Drink specials

Here’s a short list of apéritifs—along with a few daytime touring suggestions to go with your drinks— that’ll help you ease into the evening in harmonious style. So, during “l’heure de apéritif” (the gateway to dinner), you can kick back with a journal or sketchpad avec a cold beverage, and look and feel like a vrai local.

Something old in Montmartre

Local Laurent demonstrates the art of the Picon.

Hankering for a taste of the past? Order a Picon. Created by Gaétan Picon in 1837, this bittersweet blend of oranges and deep blue gentian flowers is typically served with a demi-pression (small draft beer), into which you pour the Picon-bière. Aromatic and richly colored, the orange-toffee flavored brew combines with the hops to pack a potent punch. Take caution! “Just one,” smartly advised local film editor Laurent, “otherwise you just might tumble down.”

Everything tastes better in context. So, if you’re in Montmartre, work up your thirst with a stroll by Van Gogh’s old digs at 54 rue Lepic, Picasso’s studio at the Bateau Lavoir (13 Rue Ravignan), or the Chat Noir at 84 Blvd. Rouchechouart (where Erik Satie tickled the ivories). If you still aren’t parched, check out the old zinc bar exhibited at the Musée Montmartre.

Something new (er) in St-Germain

After the 1915 ban on Absinthe, folks had to make do with Pastis, which tastes nearly the same but no longer induces appearances of la Fée Verte (the Green Fairy) as the hallucinogenic muse of artists and poets. Opalescent green in color with a distinctive anise taste, it’s usually mixed with water and ice. For a literary twist, add champagne instead of water for a concoction Ernest Hemingway lovingly called, “death in an afternoon.”

Promenading through St-Germain? Look for the former residence of Julia Child at 81 rue de l’Université (she had her own homemade absinthe recipe!), or the Closerie des Lilas, where a plaque embedded in the bar marks Hemingway’s favorite seat. Visit the Musée d’Orsay. Note those cloudy green glasses in the works of Degas, Lautrec or Van Gogh.

Something borrowed in the Marais

In 1885 Fernand Muraux found a recipe in Switzerland and introduced Suze (named for a Swiss river). Another gentian-based apéritif, this old-fashioned bar favorite is normally served on ice with equal parts water or orange juice. Make a conversation piece of it by challenging your drinking companions to describe its strange and peculiar flavor! Picasso once said, “I put all the things I like into my pictures—too bad for the things, they just have to put up with it.” Check out his 1912 collage “Verre et bouteille de Suze.”

While meandering through the Marais, visit the Musée Picasso or Musée Carnavalet (where you’ll spot Steinlen’s original Chat Noir sign!).

Something blue in Montparnasse

Say “Kir” for a classic (and classy) refresher made of crème de cassis (a blackcurrant liqueur) in white wine. Originally called blanc-cassis, it was named for Canon Félix Kir, the Mayor of Dijon who popularized it when the good red Burgundy was confiscated during the German Occupation. As usual, brewmaster Hemingway made his own version with vermouth, called “Chambéry Cassis.”

Afternoon aperitifs near Picasso's old haunt.

Take a break from hobnobbing in Montparnasse with a visit to the Musée Montparnasse. Also hit up Hemingway’s house at 70 bis rue Notre Dame des Champs, or see where Gertrude Stein held court at 27 rue de Fleurus (where Papa was a frequent caller). For real café-culture ambience, try Le Select at 99, Boulevard Montparnasse.

Bon Voyage et Santé, Cheapos!

Popularity: 8% [?]