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Probably Belgium's most beloved steam room - if you will - is Chez Leon, on the trendy and ultra-touristy Rue des Bouchers. Mussels at Leon are fresh, cheap (a fixed price meal, including pommes frites and one free beer, is €14.50 per person), and steamed to order. When last there, this Cheapo ordered mussels marinières (mussels steamed in a tomato base) and watched as her fellow Cheapos delighted in mussels à la provencale. And, the best part? When you're all done, you can take some beer to go; a four-pack costs €6. It's good stuff, we promise. Check Chez Leon's site for recipes (vegetable stoemp anyone?), info about Leon's famous home-brewed beer, and more.
Another hot spot, Le Zinneke, offers diners more than 50 preparations from which to choose. You can even get curried mussels here - only on the Chez Leon menu during the summer months. One kilogram, equal to 2.2 pounds, is €15 (three courses = €30). And, Zinneke gives customers a money back guarantee. Check out their web site for photos of their spacious back garden, open on warmer days.
We highly recommend stopping by Mer du Nord (1 rue Ste-Catherine; 00 32 2 513 11 92), the stand-up seafood diner on the corner of Place Ste. Catherine. Locals swear by this place, which is run by a fishmonger, always has the freshest seafood, and doesn't charge an arm and a leg for it.
Overall, though, your best bet is to get downright chatty and ask the locals. Also browse the placards outside most restaurants. With a little research, you'll find your tummy and your wallet feeling full.
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