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Bar Juanita. Located just past Plaza del Arenal in a trellised passageway, Bar Juanita is romantic enough for an early evening tapas date, followed (of course) by a glass of Jerez sherry. Make sure to order the artichokes to start. Dinners tend to be expensive. Calle Pescadería Vieja. +34-956-334-838.
The Best Neighborhood Bar award goes to Bar La Cuadra, perfect for inexpensive tapas or a quick stop for a drink. Flamenco tunes play on the radio, and old black-and-white Spanish movies are often playing on the bar's television. Sit at the bar and order a plate of Jamón Serrano (cured ham). The bar is hidden off the main drag down a narrow alleyway on Calle Gravina, 4. 011-34-956-346-068.
La Carboná offers white-linen tablecloths and fine, traditional dining for a budget price (main dishes are about €12). The restaurant is housed in an old winery. Order the bacalao (codfish), rabo de buey (oxtail), or puchero (stew), all Jerez specialities. Calle San Francisco de Paul, 2. 011-34-956-347-475.
Jerez bakeries turn out more pastries than loaves of bread, reflecting the local penchant for sweets. El Pozito is the regional pastry in Jerez, and it's worth the early morning caloric splurge. A pastry shell holds a light, cinnamon flavored cream that won't leave you feeling sick after stuffing yourself.
Five things to experience
It's what's for dinner. Pick up fresh fruit for a day of walking at the Mercado Central on Plaza Estévez. Wander inside and watch as Cádiz seafood, all fresh off the boat, is tossed, sliced, and sold. Weak stomachs should avoid the fresh meats department.
Nightlife. If Flamenco isn't your schtick, check out Plaza Vargas, which tends to get rowdy late at night with an all-ages crowd. The hottest place to shake it like Shakira is La CarbonerÃa (Calle Letrados, 7). The Teatro Villamarta is a revered city jewel on Plaza Romero Martinez. Shows are listed outside the building. For more information, call +34-956-329-507 or visit the Teatro online.
Plaza del Arenal. The city's central plaza is perfect for people watching. Pack a lunch or order a drink at one of the outdoor terrazas. At night, young people take over and host botellónes, or outdoor drinking parties—the most economical way to party.
Church bells. An Andalusian wedding is quite a sight. Chances are good that you'll witness a wedding at one of many historical churches in the city. The most attractive of the bunch, however, is the 16th-century Iglesia de San Miguel (Plaza San Miguel), which holds mass at 8 p.m. All the city's churches are free.
Shopping. You cannot leave Jerez without picking up some sherry and local vinegar. Check butcher shops and grocery stores for cheaper prices and avoid tourist shops. There are many Flamenco dress shops around town, too. While Flamenco dresses are expensive and relatively impractical, a simple silk prop flower for your mom back home will do nicely.
EuroCheapo's Mini-Guide to Jerez
Introduction to Jerez
Five Things Not to Miss
Five Cheap Hotels in Jerez
Five Restaurants and Activities
Toolbox: Getting There, Getting Around, More
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