Hotel EsmeraldaEditor's Pick

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The Hotel Esmeralda is a one-star wonder. With a “magnifique” location directly across the Seine from Notre Dame, it offers 16 funky and recently renovated rooms at reasonable rates. For the quirky at heart, this hotel will be a dream-come-true. However, if you're looking for a standard and modern hotel, then keep looking.

The Esmeralda's building has obviously undergone some changes since it was built in 1640. (Hello, indoor plumbing!) But it has resisted modernizing away too much of its old charm. The result is a hotel with an original winding staircase, crooked hallways, wood-beamed ceilings and an incredibly eclectic collection of furniture.

The Esmeralda renovated nearly all of its rooms in 2009. We’re happy to report that the rooms have been freshened up, but still retain their original charm. The room d&eactue;cor, thankfully, remains a “mash-up” of 19th-century French farmhouse and kitschy High Baroque. However, carpets and wallpaper have been replaced and some flea-market furnishings polished up or replaced by antiques. Rooms are not equipped with TVs, although they do have telephones.

As part of the renovation work, bathrooms were overhauled and expanded, and some now boast lovely antique mirrors. Single rooms are equipped with showers, while all doubles have bathtubs.

The décor is so remarkable that Lozano—the English-, Spanish- and French-speaking manager—hands out postcards of the lobby. And the views from rooms looking outward are guaranteed to give you an excellent photo-op of your own: Imagine opening your windows in the morning to find all of Notre Dame staring back at you.

As the Esmeralda is frequented by romantics and eccentrics the world 'round, booking early is imperative—that's three months ahead during busy season for all you last-minute types.

Breakfast is served for €8. Note that the charming winding staircase is the only way to reach rooms (no elevator).

» Tom Meyers

Note: This hotel was visited by a EuroCheapo editor and is recommended based on cleanliness, location, price and overall quality. EuroCheapo did not charge this hotel to be listed.