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The Hotel Esmeralda is a one-star wonder. Located directly across the Seine from Notre Dame, it offers 16 funky rooms at very low rates. The location is magnifique, and the hotel has countless legendary neighbors, including the mythic English language bookstore Shakespeare and Co. For the quirky at heart, this hotel will be a dream come true. However, if you're looking for a standardized and recently-renovated hotel, then run to the next review.

The Esmeralda's building has obviously undergone some changes since it was built in 1640. (Hello, indoor plumbing!) But it has resisted modernizing too much of its old charm. The result is a hotel with old winding staircases, crooked hallways, original wood-beamed ceilings, and an incredibly eclectic collection of furniture.

The décor is so remarkable that Lozano—the English, Spanish and French speaking manager—hands out postcards of the lobby. And the views from rooms looking outward are guaranteed to give you an excellent photo-op of your own: Imagine opening your windows in the morning to find all of Notre Dame staring back at you.

What about the rooms? They're unusual, or rather, "unique." The wallpaper is 19th-century French farmhouse, rugs are laid atop carpets, and flea-market lamps hang in all directions. Let's just call it "dollhouse-eclectic." Rooms are not equipped with TVs, although they do have telephones.

During our last visit (early 2009), we popped in while the hotel was closed for two months of renovation work. We nearly panicked. What were they doing to our Esmeralda? Adding Jacuzzis and an elevator? No, no, Lozano insisted, they were just "freshening up" the décor, changing all the carpets and wallpaper, and installing new doors. Whew.

Frequented by romantics and eccentrics the world 'round, this is a place where booking early is imperative—that's three months ahead during busy season for all you last-minute types.

» Tom Meyers

Note: This hotel was visited by a EuroCheapo editor and is recommended based on cleanliness, location, price and overall quality. EuroCheapo did not charge this hotel to be listed.

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Hotel Address

4 Rue St-Julien-le-Pauvre
Latin Quarter, Paris, France

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